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Hi all.
I'm trying to tune my pilot timing-When the truck is fully warm (Towing heavy), I'm still getting some pop around 2000 rpm in the mid power ranges.
So I'd like to make sure that what I'm commanding in the table is actually being produced to the injectors.
I looked in Engine/Fuel/Diesel/Injection timing-I see the Main timing, but no the pilot or post timing values as options.
Thanks for any help,
Chay
You need to do a OS update
I'm pretty sure I did-At least I tried to.
I chose the OS button and the extended data stream then renamed it, close it and opened the renamed file then wrote all as per the instructions.
Did this not work maybe??
Chay
I did a bit more digging. I can't figure out what I messed up. I don't know how to tell if the extended datastream os has been applied properly or not.
I did find something interesting-If I add a parameter to the chart section instead of the channel section, then the pilot timing is available-Under Engine/Fuel/Diesel/Injector timing. the post injection timing is there too. Sadly it seems it won't work without the channel being set up.
Still wondering why I can't get the info on the pilot, and how would a person know if they have successfully applied the os patch?
Chay
Yes you need the channel selected too
I wish I could. The channel is not available.
Chay
MAIDENCR, can I ask what version of VCM Editor and Scanner you are running?
I'm getting frustrated with this process-I got stuck at the gas station the other night because I tried to flash the truck and got the common ecm error multiple times, then it wrote but failed, then finally it took the write, but the ABS and Brake lights are on now, and it won't shift into overdrive. WTF!
So I scoured the forum here and noticed that some have had to charge the batteries with a battery charger and pull ABS and fuel pump fuses to properly tune the truck. I'm doing that; hope it works.
That procedure has got to be added to the user manual on this HP Tuners how to manual. No mention of it anywhere.
Yeah my batteries are not new, but they aren't old either, and perform perfectly otherwise.
End rant.
Thanks for any help.
Chay
Knowledge that?s been around forever and across a vast multitude of forums.Quote:
Originally Posted by cfoss1000
You're right, it's my fault for not seeing that in the hours and hours of reading I've done here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim P
It's my fault that it's not in the user write up from HP Tuners.
Any idea on how to get the pilot timing, or are you just here to poke me in the eye with a sharp stick because I dared to criticize HP Tuners?
Chay
Ok, back to the truck...
I had some success.
I really should have taken this process step by step to make the troubleshooting more definitive, but I can't really afford the time at the moment.
I did the following:
Last night:
1) Check tightened the connector tube nuts. I didn't find any loose, but did get 1/8 to 1/4 turn out of a couple of them while applying reasonable torque
2) Disconnected the ECM (Really disconnected the entire Integrated power module, aka underhood fuse box)
3) Charged the batteries overnight with the ecm disconnected
This morning:
4) Disconnected the pos lead from the passenger side battery to the grid heater relays
5) Removed fuse 12 (fuel heater), and fuse 6 (I think-maybe 7 can't remember) for the ABS pump, both 40A
6) Reconnected the ecm and the rest of the battery wiring
7) With battery charger still connected, reprogrammed to bone stock 2003(As provided on the HP Tuners website) with the code enhancement process completed. I waited about 20s after key on engine off, and it wrote successfully the first time.
I cycled the key twice. The brake and abs lights were still on, but went out as soon as the truck moved.
Thank the diesel gods, the truck will no longer pop under any circumstances I could simulate without a tow vehicle. This is extremely promising.
It still won't go into overdrive though. Not good.
Chay
WTF does the connector tube nuts have to do with ECM and flashing it or overdrive on the transmission??? You realize the fuel components require a specific amount of torque and damage can be done by over torquing? It?s not by gut feel stuff. ECMs needing a maintained minimum voltage during flashing has been a knowledge available out there since the advent of the electronic fuel control system. How quickly these 3rd gens can pull down battery voltage from the cycling of the fuel pump and abs pump and pulling the fuses/relays for them is information that has been out there all over the internet for over a decade. It?s absolutely amazing what a google search can find for you on the internet. A google search will also tell you do not flash your ecm with a battery charger connected to the batteries. No one holds any responsibility for what happens from flashing an ecm except for the person that makes that choice to do so. Good luck.
Jim P: I've seen lots of your posts and you help lots of people out. This is great. You've tried to help me out in the past as well. But I didn't like your unnecessary comments above. I don`t know where you are coming from.
I am trying to fix a 'pop' in the engine primarily, and during that process I had additional problems with the programmer screwing things up.
With this 'pop' intermittent strange failure it was difficult to determine whether it was a programming or mechanical issue. I rechecked the connecting tube nuts to ensure there was no fuel delivery mechanical issue.
No there is no link between the connecting tube nuts and the transmission. There is a connection between the reprogramming and the transmission.
And there are a variety of opinions as to what torque is correct for these nuts. Dodge calls for 37 ftlbs, but I have seen numbers on diesel bombers as high as 55ftlbs. I can sure as hell tell that what I had was less than 40lbs on a 1 foot wrench.
I use a very clean battery charger (Ultra low ripple) so I`m good, thanks though.
Why the hell would I have to google this info? How would I know what to google if I didn't know it was an issue? Would you google ED unless you were having an issue with it? Come on dude, you can't be serious with this!
I have tuned multiple cars on multiple platforms-Never heard of this stuff before. It's simply not a thing.
I'm using HP tuners for some GM 6.0 LQ4s and it's great. No issue with the product per se-I don't even care that you need to totally top up the batteries and pull the fuses-It's no biggie. It's the documentation for this particular application that's lacking.
If HP Tuners makes a product that inadequately tunes an ECM, or causes other issues while doing it while representing that it works well, why wouldn't they be responsible?
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...-NOW-SUPPORTED
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...n-and-How-To-s
No info on charging the batteries/pulling fuses above-How would a newbie know??
BTW this truck actuates the fuel pump directly from the ECM. There is no 'fuel pump' fuse to pull.
Chay
There is so much wrong in that I don't even know where to begin. Bottom lines, there is always risk of bricking an ecm while flashing or an ecm write failing and the only person responsible for the risk of it is the person who chooses to do so, how many ecms you've "tuned" is irrelevant to that fact. The high pressure fuel system isn't a system you through chimp under the hood with a wrench to work on. If your high pressure fuel system isn't torqued enough or properly, you would know immediately, been there, done that. For a 2003 there is no connection between reprogramming the ecm and the transmission, fact. These engines don't "pop" under designed operations and configurations, want to find the source for the cause, look in the mirror. 99.99% of undesired results after playing with the calibration only comes from one thing, the person who played with the calibration. HP Tunes is not responsible for anything here, not one ounce, responsibility is yours for making the choice to start playing around with things and that holds true for myself playing with things on my own truck or anyone else out there who makes the decision to play with their ecm calibration or wrench on their vehicle or using some elses tuning. Flashing an ecm and using modified tuning comes with risks the end user needs to understand and accept and has the responsibility to learn and understand those risks and that's what drives me crazy, when people can't accept their own responsibilities and point fingers at others or something else rather than themselves that own that responsibility. When a person decides to play, they must be prepared to pay.
If the solution is to blame others then...
Attachment 98424
I can?t count how many times I?ve had a ?fail to write? from battery voltage falling below the minimum voltage threshold for flashing since I started in the diesel world 10 years ago back in the days of handheld smarty?s and such and not once did I point blame to the company who builds smarty for it or their beyond extreme lack of documentation for their products.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim P
You are way too emotionally invested in this and should take a step back. Sounds like you have experience in this single platform. Big fish small pond buddy.
Where is the moderator on this forum? This is garbage. I have a legitimate issue and this guy should be banned from this thread.
Chay
Lol for being honest, speaking truth and having it give hurt bum feelings?
No, for adding zero value, not helping with any of the original questions I had and taking cheap shots wherever possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim P
You are not welcome here.
Please leave and don't come back to this thread.
Chay
Yes sir Dean Cain sir! And I?m the emotional one apparently lol. The over sensitivity in this world these days...
Ok so on to look for what's going on with the overdrive.
There is a chance that it had nothing to do with the tuning of course, and it just happened to work fine for the last 12 months, but then when I had issues tuning the ECM it stopped working right after that.
But, let's troubleshoot as if that information was not available.
The transmission is an electro-mechanical system, much like the injectors. There could be either a mechanical failure or an electrical/tuning failure causing the issues.
On a 2003 there is a seprate transmission control module, called by Dodge a 'PCM' or powertrain control module.
There are some common communications busses which go to both the ECM and PCM:
PCI (Skim): ECM C2-28, PCM C3-30
SCI: ECM RX-C2-19, TX-C2-16 PCM RX-C3-29, TX-C3-27
The PCM also interacts quite a bit with the ECM, sharing hardwired signals back and forth.
Here's a quick list:
ECM to PCM:
Crankshaft position sensor signal (RPM)
Throttle position sensor signal (APPS)
Power (12V Start/Run)
PCM to ECM:
Vehicle speed sensor (And also to the ABS module)
Other signals that come into the PCM:
Overdrive on/off switch (This lights and extinguishes the OD off on the dash so presumably it's working)
Brake sense (Actually to the ECM, PCM and ABS)
Anyway, a failure in one of the modules could certainly affect the others.
My process will be to look at the 3-4 shift output from the PCM to the transmission to see if the PCM is asking for OD engagement. This is a low active (IE: Grounds to activate) input. I also have to check out the positive input to the transmission to ensure the transmission control relay is energized-otherwise the PCM input will have no effect.
The positive is a red coming out of the IPM (Fusebox) on C6-14, and the switch log to the PCM is a Violet/white on C2-8 of the PCM (See enclosed dwg).
So I'll have two voltmeters going then drive to the conditions where the OD would normally engage. We shall see.
If the OD is not being signaled to engage, I'll start looking at the signals in and out of the PCM to see what's up.
Chay