C7 Stingray, Ported Z06 SC, 103mm katec TB, LTH, X-Pipe, Catless, VVE or VT Startup

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05-07-2023
RoninDusette

C7 Stingray, Ported Z06 SC, 103mm katec TB, LTH, X-Pipe, Catless, VVE or VT Startup

For this setup, what makes more sense to increase first to get it to idle? I started last night with increasing the VT and VVE by 10% each, then flashing and attempting to start. The second time I did that it just started to idle, so I feel like I was on the right track.

Also, the TB only shows a range of 18-30% when I move the pedal. Where do I adjust the range for a bigger TB? Just not seeing any voltage tables or anything like that for them.

Also, should I change the sensor setup as far as the SC/TCn section to SC-TIAP-MAP or just leave it stock. I have usually left them stock, but this is the first conversion I have done like this.
05-08-2023
kenand1988

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoninDusette

For this setup, what makes more sense to increase first to get it to idle? I started last night with increasing the VT and VVE by 10% each, then flashing and attempting to start. The second time I did that it just started to idle, so I feel like I was on the right track.

Also, the TB only shows a range of 18-30% when I move the pedal. Where do I adjust the range for a bigger TB? Just not seeing any voltage tables or anything like that for them.

Also, should I change the sensor setup as far as the SC/TCn section to SC-TIAP-MAP or just leave it stock. I have usually left them stock, but this is the first conversion I have done like this.

Do a throttle body relearn.
05-09-2023
will_974

To the SCIAP question.

Yes, You will want this sensor added, and configured. it will make the car much more predictable.
05-21-2023
RoninDusette

So I figured out most of the issues I got the car idling. First off had nothing to do with the throttle body relearn. It is the max throttle table that was set to something below 100% so I just changed it to 100%. Once it's up and running at idle go over 100% or go up to 100%. And as far as the sensor goes I'm so far but we've done is we're running a single map sensor on the back of the supercharger. So we're running an LT for 3 bar map sensor on the back and then we have the stock one because the one that reads in the throttle body or near the small body all that is is just for bringing barometric pressure that's literally all it's there for. So right now we're not even running that it's not even plugged in and the thing idles just fine. That sensor is not needed if you're going to be at the same barometric pressure because the LT1 already has a barometric pressure sensor that it uses. At least as far as I can tell my ve table scales properly and if it was missing a barometric pressure sensor then it wouldn't be able to calculate the barometric pressure over manifold absolute pressure math that works on the rose of the vve table. And no I didn't even set the sensors up to include a supercharger or anything like that I set it up the simplest way possible until it exactly what we have we're naturally aspirated with a single map sensor. And without a second map it fires up it runs. And that's one of the things I was confused about is cuz a lot of cars run with a single manifold absolute pressure sensor. We're just not taking it all the way out to Tahoe or something as of right now it's just going to be right around sea level so it's going to give us the same numbers no matter what as long as we're in this area. That'll change in the future but I'm pretty sure there's other ways around that too if we need it. I was also able to use a Silverado aftermarket pulley bracket on the LT1 and get all of the supercharger pulleys and everything to line up. Same with a power steering delete bracket we were able to get a an absolute minimum amount of pulleys and brackets in there without having to relocate the alternator not having to add pulley in place to go with the power steering pulley we didn't have to relocate anything. We didn't even have to change the water pump everything on the front of the car stayed exactly the same all we did was just add two sets of brackets both from ICT billet. With those brackets and a couple of pulleys attached to those brackets and a tensioner from a CTS-V we were able to clear the 103 mm throttle body without having to relocate a single pump or accessory.
05-21-2023
Clutch

If you're running the stock LT1 MAF; the baro sensor is inside it.
06-18-2023
RoninDusette

Just an update. Everything is installed and working great. Kept the baron in the maf for now and am going to break it out with the old map from the LT1. She actually runs great. I'm going to go tune it tomorrow.

So it has a 15% overdrive crank pulley and a griptec pulley that I think combined with the crank pulley is going to give us a good amount of boost we don't really want considering the engines already high compression. He also has long-term headers catalyst 3-in exhaust and the next pipe and a massive throttle body and intake and a ported supercharger as previously stated. So with the overlap that's in the stock cams we should be able to keep the pressure down because the heads flowing so much in and out it should knock our pressure down hopefully to safe levels. Also I'm going to pull some timing on it just across the board because anytime you just give it a little bit of gas it starts to knock on 91. So I figure if I pull back some timing and let the supercharger just kind of do the work to get it to Stingray levels but supercharged. I basically a slightly modded Stingray and not knocking you're slightly less timing and then start working the torque management and virtual torque tables to get them where I want to of course after dialing in vve and all that good stuff I shouldn't need to put any more timing in it and I should be able to just kind of rely on torque management to bring it up to a level where I feel comfortable right? Cuz ideally up in the torque management should automatically at the timing so if I drop the base timing to where it's not knocking and it's still making the same power that the stingray did with you know basic in and out up in the torque management and stuff like that just start letting it naturally make whatever power it wants to make and let the computer handle the timing and everything up to the point where it starts knocking that's probably going to be my approach.. unless you guys have any extra input I'd greatly appreciate it especially for some of you guys that have done more of these superchargers that I access my first time tuning anything high compression with an aftermarket forced induction system even though it's an oem supercharger I think you get what I'm saying I just want to make sure I'm covering all my bases. The vehicle drives fine on the tune that I have on it but I get starts fine it fires right up and I don't almost perfectly I really don't have any complaints with the way it drives except for seeing some knock and that would make sense I'm giving the boost in the high compression but yeah any input you guys got I'd appreciate it or any experience some of you guys that have done this before all this particular vehicle you know feel free to chime in
07-04-2023
RoninDusette

So I got the thing running well. Just now trying to fight the timing. Part throttle knock is gone after tuning vve and MAF. But wot it will see a bunch. I pulled hella timing and even switched to using a ZL1 octane table and pulled timing back on that. Left it at stock LT1 peak torque and DD, letting the boost so the work to make the power up to stock, and then was going to use the torque management to bring it up higher. Does anyone have any tips? Not even specific ones, just in general for for this swap?
07-04-2023
TriPinTaZ

To get it to run right in TIAP mode you need the breakout harness and an LT4 MAP sensor. There is another option to go SCIAP mode but it takes a little more work.

As for getting the car to run right, as a starting point, copy over the Z06 Torque Model, Crank Airflow and MAF Curve along with its column values as you will be exceeding the LT1's useful MAF range.

You on stock bottom end on your car or did you put pistons in it? If stock....man you better be careful with timing. Make sure your SOI is correct as well. I assume you installed LT4 HPFP and Injectors?
07-08-2023
RoninDusette

Quote:

Originally Posted by TriPinTaZ

To get it to run right in TIAP mode you need the breakout harness and an LT4 MAP sensor. There is another option to go SCIAP mode but it takes a little more work.

As for getting the car to run right, as a starting point, copy over the Z06 Torque Model, Crank Airflow and MAF Curve along with its column values as you will be exceeding the LT1's useful MAF range.

You on stock bottom end on your car or did you put pistons in it? If stock....man you better be careful with timing. Make sure your SOI is correct as well. I assume you installed LT4 HPFP and Injectors?

So, we have the LT4 map installed in the back of the SC, and the stock MAP being used for Baro.

And thanks! I will try those. In terms of going SCIAP, what exactly would require more work?

I will give the Z06 stuff a try. As far as the MAF, I would like to see it in SD and just not have to worry about the MAF. Any harm in failing the MAF on these ECUs?

And yes. Stock bottom end, and we are trying to be VERY cautious with timing. And what SOI would be ideal? Or at least a good starting point?