Car has a 3.4 3in down pipe 3in exhaust 1.9 mod rockers, 104s. I was told the car has a intense 1.0 tune. Here is the first file i pulled i don't even know where to start little help please!!!!!
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Car has a 3.4 3in down pipe 3in exhaust 1.9 mod rockers, 104s. I was told the car has a intense 1.0 tune. Here is the first file i pulled i don't even know where to start little help please!!!!!
Running 91+ pump gas right?
I would first start off by upping the pulley size to a 3.8. I kinda think there might be an issue with exhaust flow. Lower the boost and see if some of the KR goes away.
Reduce the WOT shift RPM, there is no need to have the car shift at 5900-6000 rpms, they don't make any real power past 5500 on the stock cam. I would go back to 5300-5400 rpm shift points, that will also lower the boost psi during those high rpms which might help.
I seen the fans are set up for a 160 thermostat, might wanna set those up different for a higher temp thermo. I'd go 180 or 195.
Thats just some quick things off the top of my head that I saw.
Yes running 92.there was no knock with with a 3.8. I figured with rockers and the 3in exhaust a 3.4 would be fine. I have had many other cars with 3.4 same supporting mods. I fixed the shift points and the fan temps.
Anything after the downpipe makes zero difference untill maybe 350WHP + on these cars.
The major problem spots are the front manifold and stock downpipe which you said you replaced. The factory 2.25in downpipe with u-bend was terrible.
It looks like fuel was okay, 12.1 plus the adders seem to put it around high 10's maybe 11.0 AFR at a guess. A wideband would help confirm.
I also saw that there is zero torque mngt on there, I guess that tune took it all away. Thats something I woulda have kept some of to save itself if needed.
The KR is crazy on this car even part throttle i can see it spike to 11-12 and when i was driving yesterday i was seeing 850-870 MV at WOT. that's mid 12s on afr correct? too lean. I really don't wanna go with headers i have used the powerlogs and ported rear and had good luck before. I'm not a engine tuning guy i mainly use HP Tuners for my transmission builds thanks for the help everyone. I will get some more scans up soon thanks
here is another scan Attachment 41174
Attachment 41176Scan from today
here is an updated scan PT kr still there but wot runs loook better
The part throttle kr I'm not too sure about.
At wot its starting to look better but I still thing maybe adding a plog would help alot.
And also its running very rich, your command AFR reaches 10.6 at points, which on a WB I bet is 10.3 or lower and your injectors are closeing to maxing out because of that. At at around 20ish per that chart, you'd normally see around 16-18 with a fuel mix of around 11ish on a wb. Might want to bump the afr from 12.1 to 12.3 on the main table, the adders will reduce it to around 11.
ok thanks for the input. Trying to make it safe to drive for now looking a getting headers and a IC
I installed headers lastnight and a new air filter and a new fuel filter. drove the car about 35 miles home and took a scan on it today. No KR at WOT all the way through 3rd. Still has a decent amount of KR on a forced downshift and part throttle.
Looks better but I see few issue are still there.
You seem to have a vacuum leak somewhere as your LTFT hit 16.4 many times and when WOT they lock in around 9.4 for so. I'd try and figure that out and see if you can't get them closer to +/- 3-5 at WOT.
You injectors are still pushing near 20, might be using a tad more fuel than you need still. Do you have a wideband hooked up yet???
You could try what I said in my above post to set the PE vs ECT table back to 12.3, I think that will help some there.
I still see part throttle KR on my car and havent seem to track it down yet, but I'm not really even in boost so its not hurting anything there.
i have 18in at idle but will look again for leaks. Wide band is next on my list. thanks for the advise
No. A narrow band o2 sensor is good at reading 14.5-14.9 AFR and nothing outside of that. 870mv is probably close to 15 afr. You need a wideband.Quote:
Originally Posted by harmon_performance_trans
As said, narrow no good for WOT but for now, get it to read at least 935-940 to get you "closer to safe". You don't want to fry a ring there bud or pop a hole in a piston if your going WOT without a WB
here is my latest scan from this morning, im still seeing some kr. Most kr is seen on a quick 1/4 throttle burp. Wide band is installed and im seeing 10.4 to 10.8 AFR at WOT. i will attach my scan and current tune thanks this is not the car in my sig, this is my new car. headers, 1.9 modded rockers, stock valve springs, 3.4 pulley, poly dogbone inserts, flipped mounts, 104 plugs, full 3in exhaust
I know for my car atleast, in the .92 of your high octane table, reduce that whole thing from 4200 to 6400 by 1 degree.
That helped for me anyway get rid of a little bit of KR in the higher rpms.
Been looking at you scan there, any chance you've cleaned the MAF yet? I think its reading pretty low and might be dirty or on its way out. Your about 10% or so rich at idle, a little lean on take off, and then really rich again all the way to entering PE. After that it's grabbing a fuel trim and adding over 4% to your PE. Fueling needs to be ironed out there. Set your EGR to the highest temp possible for tuning. Once your tune is done then you can set it back to stock. The EGR is going to mess with you if you leave it like that during the tuning process.
I would also 0 out that add vs rpm table, use the MAF to fuel the car
Part throttle shift at 100% should match in the WOT shift table. Second gear is a little out of whack there
I set shift times to .1 or .2 for entire table depending on set up, I think you should drop it all to .2 and see how it feels
A little tip from Russ K.... your shift pressures are pretty low too, 0 out the shift pressure table, place 0 in the first column, and 60 in the last... interpolate the table. You should see a nice rise in numbers from your 0 to 60. Copy that table then undo all changes to that table so you have your original one in front of you. Then highlight the table and paste special add. Now it will shift a little quicker and you can make a little better use of those mounts with your set up
Cleaning the MAF was one of the first things i did when i bought the car. It has a after market new MAF in it think it's a cardoine replacement. I was not aware of the EGR messing with me. When i installed the headers i deleted the EGR. I will correct the shift times and pressures. The trans works great that's why i have not changed anything there yet, im going to rebuild the trans and install 3.29s then dial everything in. Just trying to figure out this mystery car. Thanks for all the input i will start logging my AFR when i get a serial to usb adapter.
You may want to go for a GM/Delco Maf sensor. I've done so much screwing around with mafs over the years that now I trust nothing but the GM sensor anymore. The delco's can be crap out of the box as well, seen it a few times. The GM ones I never had a problem with but they are expensive. Even if you try a wrecker one...