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1999 Camaro M6 5.7L
215 TFS Heads
231/238 617/604 111+1
92/92
did almost everything to get my idle running at 1000 but the car didnt live it, so i raised the idle speed to 1100rpm and im still having a slight stall
car dies right after startup i have to give the gas peddle a kick to get the engine running
car dies when getting to a complette stop while driving in the hood.
lots of work was done to the tune, ill attach the stock file and the tuned file so u guys can compair.
scan and config
Sounds like your engine is suffering from a lack of bypass airflow. Crack the throttle blade open a bit by turning the set screw on the throttle body.
Try to get your IAC counts in the 50-70 range at a warm idle, then lower the idle speed to somewhere in the 800-900 range. There's no reason your engine should be above 1000.
Other than Adj the throttle blade screw, is there anything needs to be done to the tune ?
After adjusting the throttle opening, you have to do a TPS relearn, followed by dialing in your idle fueling now that airflow has changed, ending with a recalibration of the base running airflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine_HP
I still recommend lowering your idle.
Return your open loop fuel adder EQ ratio table back to stock. I'm not sure why you chose to command 1.02 across the entire board.
Your VE and spark tables can use a lot of work. Make sure to turn off DFCO before VE tuning.
You don't need to adjust the tb screw. Might as well be drilling holes in the tb too. Lol. There are tables in the tune for these adjustments. Just tell the iac you want more air at start up and then more at idle.
Plan is as follow:
First ill adj the screw until the tps reads 1%.
Relearn tps.
recalibration idle base running.
Lower the idle to 900rpm.
Kuwait is a not very cold country we never had snow here (not that ive seen), so i have set the a/f ratio to 14.4 at all time, other reason for that is i wannted to run a bit richer than 14.7 to be safe.
Look at my tune and tell me where to startQuote:
Originally Posted by Cantalope Kid
You'll never get that thing to work right, run right, without adjusting the blade or drilling the throttle body. It's idle tuning 101. I shouldn't have to explain it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantalope Kid
Ill start on adj the blade today and see how it will go.Quote:
Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Ill leave this thread updated.
There's a bunch more that needs done. The blade adjustment is only part of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Engine_HP
most of tuners i know say tb drilling is a big nono!they say it gives motor unmetered airflow,which is way harder to tune.is this correct?or is this just for a ETC?
What if the IAC is maxed out? Adjusting the throttle body is the only thing left.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantalope Kid
Didnt have enough time to play with the tune today but i pulled the lid out to check on the throttle body, YES theres a hole in the TB, i thing the NW TB comes drilled from the factory.
Wow, I suggested that someone drill a hole once, and I got reamed.......... I have only had to do it twice though in 20 years, to be honest its always a last resort.
Some F body throttle bodies have holes drilled in the throttle blade from the factory. There's nothing wrong with drilling a throttle blade in an F body, or drilling one larger. ETC cars are a different story.
I almost responded, but decided to check the rest of the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Drilling can't easily be reversed. Cracking the blade can. That's why I crack the blade and slot the TPS sensor to get IAC counts into a reasonable area. Doing one or the other is definitely required on some cars, because there are instances where the stock throttle body setup can't supply enough air during cold idle, even with the IAC maxed out.
Get the car up to operating temperature, dial in the fueling, and then you're ready to start tweaking the blade. What I typically do is unplug the TPS sensor so it reads 0% the whole time I'm messing with it. Then I carefully (without letting my hand get yanked into the serpentine belt) adjust the set screw until IAC counts drop to where they should be. Slot the TPS and rotate it so that no pedal shows about 0.59V in the scanner (obviously have to plug the TPS connection back in). Once that's good, shut the car off completely, unplug the TPS sensor, then cycle the key on and leave it for 20 seconds or so. Turn the key off, plug the sensor back in, and then start it. Now it should read 0% (or like 0.4%) at idle.
i had a bad fuel pump it was falling lean at WOT (but that had nothing to do with my idle) so i upgraded to the aromotive 340 fuel pump.
Quick update: played with my idle today, the cam seamed to be happier with 15 A/F ratio at idle, ill post the log tomoro.
I went for WOT today and injectors was reading 150% :( now i need bigger inj, should i go for 36# or 42# ???