VE table tuning

Hello

I've been following Goat rope Garage vid on tuning VE Table.
Not once did he or others mention that tuning your primary you also need to tune your secondary ve table cause your running on that. 18 months later I find this out. New to the game.
So the million dollar question is. Is there anyone out there that can tell me why my transmission (4L60) is now slamming into second gear when in VE tuning????.
I have to peddle it into second gear to keep my transmission in one piece. Peddling it is now giving me false readings in that area of my table.
Second question: Is it normal for the ve table to be over 100 in the table????.

Please feel free to review and inform me of any corrections in my tune. I'm chasing my tail on a allot of issues.
Wanting to add a Fast 102 intake using a Holly 90mm Tb. Only hitting 480hp. Not happy with that. :mad:
Also anyone out there having problems with that combination????

Modified LM7 5.3L 330ci

What is all done to the engine or transmission? 480hp on a chassis dyno? Your MAF is definitely not right. I can't remember if that affects the trans shift pressure when the maf is failed. Either way I would put the stock maf curve or if you have tuned it. Also, put the tune back into closed loop and use fuel trims for part throttle.

An engine can have over 100 in the VE. You have a rediculous spike which is real though, lol.

Why is the torque loss 0'd out?

Is this a swap vehicle?

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Originally Posted by ns158sl

What is all done to the engine or transmission? 480hp on a chassis dyno? Your MAF is definitely not right. I can't remember if that affects the trans shift pressure when the maf is failed. Either way I would put the stock maf curve or if you have tuned it. Also, put the tune back into closed loop and use fuel trims for part throttle.

An engine can have over 100 in the VE. You have a rediculous spike which is real though, lol.

Why is the torque loss 0'd out?

Is this a swap vehicle?

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350hp on chassis,, 480hp @6700 rpm at crank westeck did the break in for me. (Single plan intake with a 750 Holly) No efi tune.
Had to go back to stock intake and TB for daily driving no one can tune a fast 102 intake/95mm Holly TB EFI around here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsairguy

So the million dollar question is. Is there anyone out there that can tell me why my transmission (4L60) is now slamming into second gear when in VE tuning????.

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Disable Trans Diag>General>Max Line Pressure DTC>P0101-P0103

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsairguy

Second question: Is it normal for the ve table to be over 100 in the table????.

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Yes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsairguy

I've been following Goat rope Garage vid on tuning VE Table.

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He uses wideband OL. Use narrowband fuel trims. Wideband for PE. Run in CL because...

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post777150

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsairguy

Can anyone tell what might be causing this???

2 chassis tunes 1 driveway tune $2500 in tunes and this is what I get.

No one want to do a whole tune they just seem to want to get you on there clock and off. To get the buck and let LTFT and STFT to do the work.

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Its been running rich. Spark maps could use a lot of work, too. Running on retarded timing like that increases deposits due to cooler incomplete combustion. I can show you how to do the whole tune if you want. $0.00.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsairguy

Wanting to add a Fast 102 intake using a Holly 90mm Tb...Also anyone out there having problems with that combination????

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Make sure you're replacing the factory valley cover bolts with button heads. There are clearance issues that will lead to improper sealing and cracking.
https://www.fuelairspark.com/lsxr-ls...dware-kit.html

[QUOTE=SiriusC1024;777173]Disable Trans Diag>General>Max Line Pressure DTC>P0101-P0103



Yes.



He uses wideband OL. Use narrowband fuel trims. Wideband for PE. Run in CL because...

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post777150


Its been running rich. Spark maps could use a lot of work, too. Running on retarded timing like that increases deposits due to cooler incomplete combustion. I can show you how to do the whole tune if you want. $0.00.




Yes as soon as I went into VE tuning it was rich vary rich. p0101,102,103 has been turned off. Still shifts hard. Keep it in closed loop?
Yes I'll take any tune/advise. I'm only guessing on spark.
My fast 102 intake has been on twice. Once with a tuner to find out he couldn't tune it (102TB couldn't clock things.) so I had to put the stock back on just so I could get it home. I put it on a second time just to see if it would run with the stock TB. It ran but wouldn't idle. it stayed at 1900 rpm. I think it was that I still had the MAFF on. I didn't know how to turn MAFF off at that time.

I bought one to start learning tired of giving other people money to tune not to have it right. So I figured I'll give it a try.
Today after a few passes/adjusting the VE table some. I turned back on maf, LTFT and STFT with new VE table. Sounds alot better but I still know there's more there.
Yes the spark is way off. I have a dead spot in the peddle until 3000.

You need to tune the VE and the maf has to be disabled during VE tuning. I can't believe that thing even ran with the MAF like it was lol.

One thing at time. Start with keeping the MAF disabled and STFT enabled, make sure you disabled the Max line parameters in the Trans Diag as Sirius posted. Post a Tune after those changes have been made and then post a log.

Listen to Sirius, he nailed almost everything. ns158sl is also right. Tune in CL and put your MAF values back to stock but leave it disabled for now.

Only thing I noticed is your using the stock OS for speed density. That can trip people up since your OS has primary and secondary VE tables. Gen 3's when in speed density (MAF failed) reference the secondary VE table for some reason. Either tune the secondary table then copy/paste those values to the primary table and interpolate the missing cells or use an upgraded OS. I've had much better luck with a 2 bar OS scaled to 1 bar values.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corsairguy

Hello

I've been following Goat rope Garage vid on tuning VE Table.
Not once did he or others mention that tuning your primary you also need to tune your secondary ve table cause your running on that. 18 months later I find this out. New to the game.
So the million dollar question is. Is there anyone out there that can tell me why my transmission (4L60) is now slamming into second gear when in VE tuning????.
I have to peddle it into second gear to keep my transmission in one piece. Peddling it is now giving me false readings in that area of my table.
Second question: Is it normal for the ve table to be over 100 in the table????.

Please feel free to review and inform me of any corrections in my tune. I'm chasing my tail on a allot of issues.
Wanting to add a Fast 102 intake using a Holly 90mm Tb. Only hitting 480hp. Not happy with that. :mad:
Also anyone out there having problems with that combination????

Modified LM7 5.3L 330ci

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Looks like someone already called the MAX pressure with MAF/Torque fault in the trans DTC section.

I'd strongly encourage a Nick Williams throttle body over anything else. There is a tremendous difference in quality and design.

Oh, when you handling your secondary VE table you can copy w/ labels your primary table, then paste into the secondary table. Takes a second.

A lot of the early speed density OS's will not use the MAF after. There is no harm in keeping the stock OS. Not a lot of gain going to the custom OS with RTT still not being very useful after the big scanner update several years ago.

Not sure why you're slamming gears but I just got through doing the SD tune on mine - LM7 with LSXRT and 102 Icon TB. It has been challenging, but now getting good drivability and starting to make power. I may be able to help you on your tune as it sounds like your set up is close to mine. Advice on the LSXrt- just make sure and follow the instructions... button head bolts are critical on the valley cover, and you definitely need to disassemble it and add the RTV in the rear area prior to install, as it points out. Let me know if I can help... Idle tuning has been tricky, but doing good now.

Concerning your FAST intake. I went through a similar thing with idle. You have to purchase thicker o-ring for your injectors. The cups that the injectors sit in, in the FAST intake, are larger than stock. So, if you transferred your injectors over from your stock intake and never changed to thicker o-rings, that's your problem. Huge leakage past the injectors.

And if anyone is reading this, here is a tip... You can either take your car to a shop that has an intake smoker and see pressurized smoke leaking out of areas from your intake, like your injector o-rings or intake seals. Or you can do it at home. Keep your throttle body blade open with something and duct tape the entire throttle body opening so it is air tight. Stick a straw through the tape and blow cigar smoke into the straw, which goes into the intake. Now, take compressed air, (a little bit of pressure, not 80psi!!! like 15psi max) and blow through the straw. You will see smoke escape from cracks if you have an intake leak anywhere. Have a friend observe with you, to make it easier.

Now, it's the tuner's job to get it idling correctly, since you have no leaks!

Hi A
Thanks for the reply.

Yes all the above have been done. The intake has been on twice just couldn't get it to idle with a 102 TB. Couldn't clock TPS. I was informed to much TB for that HP.
I even put the stock Maf and TB back on,, still idled to high (1900RPM)

Thinking about giving the Holly 90mm??? Part# 112-589. Using a lingenfelter 100MM MAF.
Have any suggestion or know of any problems with this MAF/TB combination???

GM parts if they can be made to work.