The "I'm making my Fiesta 1.0 not so detestable" thread.

Hi all. I'll have owned my 3 cylinder 1.0L ecoboost Fiesta for two years on September 1st. It has 55k+ miles, got it when it had 7 miles. It's been good to me except the lack of power. I was going to buy a Fiesta ST but realized I would be in debt $26k+ for a $19k car so I said nah and decided to buy two ford credits for my Fiesta instead. I'm hoping to also order some stereotypical performance parts from the UK for the car, since the 1.0 is popular there and has been tuned and modded to 205bhp(not whp) by some vendors.

I thought I could apply the other Ecoboost tuning guides to this car but either the tables are missing or the values that should be increased are maxed from the factory. The first thing I noticed was it was running stoich until 5500rpm. Stock MAP here at 4000ft elevation was about 200-205kPa. I bumped up boost a hair to 220kPa. I also tried to run around .86-.87 lambda, but it forced .80 instead and I hit an insufficient fuel flow issue at 5400rpm. I was able to get to .86 lambda and still hit the insufficient fuel message at 58-5900rpm. I'm sure this is fine since I never really go above 5200rpm, but I want to solve the issue so in case I need to go to a higher rpm I can.

Max injection angle is 270*, which I'm debating changing. The other option is increasing HPFP fuel pressure. I do not know if increasing the fuel pressure is feasible. I'm open to suggestions.

My baseline for testing is 20-60mph in second.(This is the safe limit on the road by my house, which I have to run logs on because my laptop has a battery life of 150 seconds.):mad:
Stock 20-60 in second is about 8.2-8.3 seconds
Tuning only enrichment and increasing boost by 15-20kpa is 7.6 seconds

I was able to fix my fueling issue by increasing the max duty cycle in fuel>general to 105%, or 1.05. I did this in the field above and the table below. I also changed the max injection angle from 270 to 285* but I don't feel this made any difference.

In second I'm running consistent 210-220kpa throughout the run, and in third I reach 230-235kpa unless my iat2 gets high. I am fine with this.

Spark ramps from 6* to 11* without knock. I will probably try to increase this next, only by a degree or two. Then I will finally order intake tube, hard crossover pipe, and de-resonating secondary tube upgrades then start over again.

I contacted two places with dynos for a baseline but I guess they don't want my money because they have made no efforts to contact me in at least a week

I was hitting a limit called "Trans Trunc" which was apparently pulling spark. I do not have access to these tables on the 1.0, but I evidently didn't need them. Under the torque management tab there are tables for fuel and "spark torque cut ratio." This limits either spark or fuel in the various states, such as traction control and conveniently "trans trunc."

I limited the spark cut table to only pull 40% of torque in trans trunc mode, which eliminated the limit after I think 3500 or 4000rpm. I am going to remove that limit entirely and see what happens. I'm getting more spark now when not limited by "trans trunc" by about 1* like I wanted. Next maybe a degree or two more.

UPDATE TO 20-60mph. With these changes and the same ambient temps I am down to 7.1 seconds from the original 8.3 20-60 in second gear."

Don't quote me, but I think it was recommended to disable the spark cut in trans trunc. But the trans trunc error usually pops up when you hit a torque limiter for the trans itself (not to be confused with torque reduction for shifts, which I recommend keeping on).

Another tip is to lean out the WOT/PE lambda. I normally run 0.90 and that helps with the insufficient fuel when using E30 to E47 with extra boost even during the much colder winter air, but that is only on the EcoBoost V6 engines. The 1.0 might have a tiny HPFP.

I actually don't have access to the trans trunc tables. My car is a manual so maybe that's why? I was still hitting a trans trunc limit.

It was Shift Modulation in the Spark Cut Torque Ratio table, I believe setting it to 1 disables it (or vice versa, whatever the description says). I disabled Trans Trunc and Tip In as well, so I'll see how it feels.

Got a new laptop battery today and logged a 0-60 of 8 seconds flat. Not bad for 4000ft elevation I suppose. Also took it to 110mph or so. I started hitting insufficient fuel again but it was commanding .80lambda. I'm assuming I'm hitting a COT enrichment. I forgot to log for that. But all in all I'm happy and may start modifying the car soon. The hardest part will be finding a downpipe that doesn't cost $1500 from England. All the intake side is easy to find.

I would recommend trying to get around your fuel limit without raising the max duty cycle above 100%. There isn’t a hard injector ‘time’ limit, there is a maximum degree limit (the 270 you mentioned in your case), a start point (in degrees), and a max allowable end point (again in degrees). The injector duty cycle is the ecu’s calculation of how much of it’s available window it will take to provide the amount of fuel required to hit your target lambda. If you allow 105% duty cycle you are allowing the ecu to try to bring in a 5% higher air load than it thinks it can provide fuel for. In actual practice it’s pretty uncommon to see a lean condition with just 105% duty cycle max, but it’s possible.

To try and stretch the fuel system out a little more you can move the end of injection window some, then calculate from your start of injection to your end of injection what your maximum injection window would need to be. Of course leaning out your PE lambda will give you more wiggle room, and raising the maximum exhaust protect lambda will also help the fuel system keep up.

Noted. Thank you. I ordered a de-resonator secondary induction pipe and a turbo hardpipe upgrade, but had a tire blow up on the freeway so the other goodies will have to wait. I get funny looks from people when they see the HP Tuners sticker on the Fiesta. Especially the guy with an ST. Very entertaining

What kind of air mass flow are you seeing with your 1.0 engine?

I'm not sure. Anything to do with mass air flow or desired airmass displays either 0 or several million units. I don't know if this is for the 1.0 only or if I need to log something counterintuitive

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CatnipG5Bandit

I'm not sure. Anything to do with mass air flow or desired airmass displays either 0 or several million units. I don't know if this is for the 1.0 only or if I need to log something counterintuitive

---

This sounds like an issue with your logging definition potentially.
If you could send a logged example with your .hpt to [email protected] we can get that taken care of for you!

Thanks. Will do as soon as I get back to my laptop.

Update! I received my upgraded Forge secondary intake tube today(AAAAALLLLLLLLL the way from the UK) and installed in 10 minutes. It increase the blowoff sound and it has a noticeable change in the butt dyno so that's a good sign. Next I should be receiving a turbo hard pipe upgrade within a few days and we'll see how much improvement that brings. Right now my concern is the sound, to liven up the car a bit. I'll be sure to log and report back.

This makes me wish HPTuners added support for 1.0 EcoBoost Focus. Not sure how much difference there'd be other than weight, and a beefier gearbox. I have all the parts just no way to tune for it!

I have stuff in their queue for over 2 months now. They must be focused on something else right now.

Murph what parts do you have for it? I have only bought the turbo hardpipe and secondary induction tube so far. I haven't received the hard pipe but even with just the secondary tube installed and it tuned, it will effortlessly roast the tires at 1600ft elevation and will still fairly easily roast them at my 4000ft elevation. I can't wait to get some other parts installed. I'm just not excited about finding a downpipe since they're $1000+ shipped

Induction kit and the turbo hard pipe from MTC Motorsports, green filter, and Milltek catless downpipe. I ordered the downpipe through Vivid Racing. They're not the best with customer service and I had to dog this info from them: Basically you put in an order and if they don't have it in stock (which they don't normally do) they put an order to have it freighted by a US Milltek distributor (in my case G-Werkes) who then ships it to you. Basically don't pay for it to be expedited because it'll still take about 3 weeks to get to you.

**Edit looks like they have them on their site again for $230 Here

Also, I'm actually at +5000ft elevation here in New Mexico haha

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by metroplex

I have stuff in their queue for over 2 months now. They must be focused on something else right now.

---

Damn. Well best I can do is get my car read/sent to HPTuners Support and do some more waiting. SCT apparently has these cars on their release schedule as well, so I guess we'll see which comes out first.

My issue is that I want to get the catted downpipe since I live so close to Texas and if I ever wanted to sell the car it'd need to pass emission tests. One day when I'm rich I'll buy all the stuff and maybe that turbo upgrade to get to 220hp. But for now I'll start small

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by metroplex

I have stuff in their queue for over 2 months now. They must be focused on something else right now.

---

It's in my queue. I have been working on nothing but tickets for a couple of weeks now. I will get it handled pretty soon.