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4450 pound car swapped 2002 5.3l, 706 heads, cam specs 225/231@50 276/289@06 .537/.517 lift 110lsa, tbss intake, fast 92mm tb, short headers, 4l60e 2000rpm converter, 3.43 gears 28" tires. I know the converter is too tight. I intend on replacing it this winter. I want to enjoy my car for the rest of the summer, I have been playing with the tune for a few days driving. car seems extra slow, like 15.9 at 91mph slow. cant do a break stand slow. anyway to fix this
how come you have no rolling idle speed?
was all 0 in the factory tune, doesnt seem to be an issue.
Do you have a wideband?
The log is missing a lot of data. You need to add cylinder airmass, knock retard, injector pulse width avg and commanded AFR to your logs.
I see this as too much timing and maybe not enough fuel. With that sized camshaft and how much rev's are you giving it, it may not have enough injector.
Plus the tune is commanding AFR all the way to 10.9 AFR, which is way too fat and it likely can't support that much fuel anyway. The rest of the PE isn't even setup yet either.
Do these changes and get more data in the logs.
Set PE as follows, change it how you want after this to fine tune it.
Set the KPA enable to 80kpa, lower the enable torque to 80%. Set the hot/cold pedal enable to 60%. Remove the 5,000rpm delay and change it to 1,500. Remove the 2 second time delay, set to zero. Change the EQ ratio from stock to something around a 12.0 AFR for starter. So that would be 1.220 after 3,600rpm. Change the enrichment ramp in rate to 2.000
Disable COT, you left it enable still.
Set the torque mngt max torque vs rpm to 500 ft lbs.
Go into the systems tab and click systems options. Set the brake tq mngt cell from 1 to zero to stop brake tq mngt from working.
The timing is too high if you ask me. I'd run 25-26 degrees and not 28-30 like it can do now. And both timing tables should never mirror each other unless you are speed density tuning on the stock OS.
i just by my tune side by side and you are missing alot of info and i saw you alot of different things you did mess with
thank you. I will get on this. how does the os determine when to switch timing tables? ive only ever tuned timing on a car with a distributor. lol, figured id give it timing till it pinged and back it off
When the MAF and VE are both being used, both high/low timing tables are used. If the MAF sensor is failed and the computer goes into speed density mode, only the low octane timing table is used. It's kinda like the computers way of a reduced power mode but not as extreme, it's just pulling away timing to reduce power.
There are OS upgrades that allow for speed density full time and will keep both timing tables active. The point of both of those tables is so that when there is knock it will pull timing away to a lower value (low octane table) and it will use the knock learn factor to interpolate the timing between the two tables until the knock learn factor returns to normal.
Adding timing until it pings is never the correct way to do, throw what you know about carbs and distributors out the window with EFI. Mid 20's for timing on LS engines is pretty much the standard on most NA applications.
Honestly. 3.5 gears with a 28" tall tire is a 600hp car territory, 130 140mph trap speed stuff, for 3000lb vehicles...
That motor without forced induction can make like 300ft*lbs of torque and around 300hp maybe to the tires. Its no 5.7, know what Im sayin? And with all the tire and gear and weight its going to feel sluggish.
If the compression was raised and the cam was smaller (say 216/220 @ .050") And you put a 26" tall tire or a 3.73 gear it would wake up a little. But you're asking alot at 4500lbs IMO
What it really needs is a turbo, I wouldn't change anything just add a turbo and some 80lb injectors, make 500 600 700hp and it will fly just fine
I'm running a similar combo 6.0 in a 3500 lb camaro with a manual trans. Tire is 26 inch with 4:10. Cam is almost exact. I can tell you with experience that this engine needs only 22 to 24 degrees timing with 12.5 AFR at WOT from 4000rpm upward. I was running 28 to start with and the engine felt ridiculously weak at higher rpm. I suspected fueling to start with and after spending too much time playing with that I finally backed timing way down and it woke right up. I'd put it back to 22 degrees and work from there. The vehicle is a lot heavier, automatic and geared differently than mine so definitely gearing, tire changes would be needed to get some good ET's. I'm running 12.4 at 114 with 1.85 60 foots. The engine makes great torque, and torque peak is about 4600 rpm. It pulls hard to 6000 rpm.