Failing PCM - need migrate tune and credits to new PCM

I have a failing PCM and I am not able to find a process that will unmarry the tune and credits from the failing PCM to allow me to migrate the credits and tune to the new PCM. I have no problem sending both PCMs off to HP Tuners or what ever process the have in place that will allow migration of my credits and tune to the new PCM. Has anyone had to go through this process or know the procedure to make this happen?

I understand the PCM serial number locking for tune and credits to avoid people abusing the tuning process. Electronics fail and there should be a procedure in place that supports the removal and migration of credits and tune when that happens.

what did support say when you emialed em?

My ticket for it is in there queue to be worked. I am waiting for reply from them.

From James Edwards (HP Tuners)

The tune and credits can not be transferred over. You will need to pull a new stock read from the new PCM.
Send that stock read to the tuner so they can create a tune from that file and send back to you.
Then you will need to re license/credit that new tune.

Licenses consist of three pieces of information. They tie in VIN, Serial Number and OS. If you change any of this information you will break the license and have to license the new combination of information you created. You will need to hold a license for the file you are writing as well as the vehicle you are writing to.

take it out daddy... it hurts

LMAO!! Just have to take the extra cost! It comes with the ups and downs of modifications to get the horse power!

Have you already got a new PCM programmed for your vin or the same vin?

I have customers ask me often especially in swaps if I can put their say 04 tune into a new 06 computer.. and stuff like that just doesn't work that way. If your not starting with the same OS your going to be starting over on the tune.

I know that the the new PCM needs to be programed with the vin. Then the stock tune needs to be pulled from the new pcm. Then apply the tune changes to that new stock tune file before it is written back to the PCM.

My issue has to with managing my credits and HP Tuners licensing model and credits. I was hoping not to have to throw away the money I spent on credits for less than 1k miles on a tune. Sometimes electronics fail and need to be replaced. If the PCM fails and needs to be replaced HP Tuners license model requires to pay for credits again to tune the replaced PCM. I already talked to HP Tuner support via email and my only option is to pay for new credits to tune the replacement PCM.

what is cheaper...

coming up with a way to change serial numbers or paying the rapist?

its $99.99 for credits, it would probably cost more than that for shipping both ways and labor to swap credits if they even offered that type of service.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by N2speed

its $99.99 for credits, it would probably cost more than that for shipping both ways and labor to swap credits if they even offered that type of service.

---

do you know a way to change the speedo calibration on jtec+????????/

Do you have a copy of the tune file you can send me?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jbliss15

do you know a way to change the speedo calibration on jtec+????????/

---

You adjust speedo in the ABS module on the Jtec/+ vehicles. A factory or high end scan tool is required. You set rotations per mile and tone ring teeth, 8.25 vs 9.25 diffs. I don't think HP tuners added a feature to do this on the JTEC/+ vehicles, i could be wrong though.

If your local to NE Ohio I can change it for you.

To the original post. I have a spare PCM for my 98 Durango. I changed the Vin using my snap on scanner to match the vehicle. The HP tuner software reads and writes to both under the same license. This should work for the 96-98 Jtec. I can't speak for the 99+ JTEC+ PCMs.

I hope you guys are still available to answer my question on replacing the pcm.

I have a 2013 Charger R/T. Since new or perhaps after the flash the dealership did later in mileage may be the culprit, there is a sticker on the hood to indicate it it has had an update. I get a random misfire on #8.
Cam & lifters are OK, moving injectors and coil packs to other cylinders makes no difference. No lifter noise

The misfire only occurs after 2 or 3 kick down to do WOT blasts and ding! If I shut down for a few seconds its gone. Sometimes I get just the CES light but it runs smooth. A few times it runs rough rough until I stop and cycle power. Like magic. I do carry a OBDLink + to clear the codes.

This was stock @3700 miles and I have since added a blower. New lifters, springs, and pushrods. I bore scoped the cam its fine.

I checked the harness for resistance. I have heard it could be the pcm.

So to try another Should I flash it back to factory and send it to pcm seller and he match up the VIN on the replacement and then I flash my tun back on it?
Is there a service that provided this kind of thing?

pulled heads to put new lifters on a stock cam wow

if you feel it run rough it could be the pcm but it could also be OneDrive lurking on your computer (or?)

how did you get rid of OneDrive????

no reason to put a stock file in the PCM if you are gonna ditch it

credits do not transfer - it will cost $100 to lic your interface to the new serial number if you swap pcm

Quote:

---

pulled heads to put new lifters on a stock cam wow

---

Thanks,
Not that cut and dry. Put the blower on @128k, well past 135k I decided I wanted the newer version lifters, call it what you will but its my warm fuzzy.
I liked still being able to see hone marks in the cylinders and no vertical lines or ridge to speak of. Took the time to bore camera the lobes. Compression is great. My build is basically just a blower with some cooling and brake enhancements. Daily driver approaching 200k now. I am very happy with it as is but for the haunting MF. Very random, goes months with out happening some times.

Quote:

---

how did you get rid of OneDrive

---

I don't understand this one drive thing.

What makes me think its the ecm is if it does run rough all I have to do is shut the car off and fire back up and its like it never happened. The harness ohm's out fine.

I would like to know the steps (not the mechanical) to take swapping in a new ecm. I want to avoid having VIN issues. I have never swapped out ecm's.

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...hlight=misfire

Too funny!