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Hi,
I wanted to confirm that I'm on the limit for my fuel system. I'm pretty new to this, any help is appreciated.Attachment 145130
Thanks in advance!
I also noticed by default they had a few injector parameters that were not reporting data. Is this normal?
I didn’t take a look at your tune but I’m sure some informations of your setup would be helpful.
Here are some people that have the experience to say if this fits.
The biggest issue at Dodge is that you cannot log fuel pressure.
It has a 392 based 426 stroker with a whipple. It has a Arrington 3B fuel pump with a MSD BAP. FIS 85lb injectors. That's the best information I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by f.creek-ranch
Ill take a look at it real quick. And Im assuming that F.Creek-Ranch ,maybe has some issue being able to log fuel pressure with his particular build, or make/model, but you can log fuel pressure with most of the newer stuff (2014+).
Well, a couple, of things before I get into your pull there, which appeared to be more like of a full mash of the pedal, and then coming off of it entirely for a second or two, and then briefly flooring it a second time before letting off of it again, which I will come back to here in a second. But before we can make a true assessment of where your build's fuel needs fall within your current fuel set-up's fuel flow capabilities, there are a couple things that need addressed before asking if you wouldn't mind another pull, but this time running a different VCM scanner channel, table and graph set-up. Whether that be the set-up that I'm going to post along with this message, or another from someone else if they choose to post a different set-up that you like may like better. Also, when you do the next pull while logging the new channel set-up, try logging a pull that is either from a stand still up to 80-90 mph if you can, or one similar to your first pull here where you are already moving, but try and start somewhere around 15-25mph and pull straight through without letting off until you hit 80-85 mph or higher if possible. Letting off of the pedal kind of throws a wrench in the data a bit. I can't speak for others but personally, but I want to see what the fueling is doing under WOT and particularly see it in WOT just before shifts while under full load. That being said, I do understand why you are asking this question, being that, despite the break in your pull here, your injector duty cycle seems to be just falling short of 80%. But let's see how high your duty cycle goes staying under WOT/full load through a couple of shifts. Another suggestion I want to make that may help knock down your injector duty cycle a bit is installing a 180-degree thermostat (Maybe even a 160-degree). And aside from the fact that it seems to be "Hot as balls" already wherever you are located, I personally have found that my hemi stroker build runs better overall around 180 degree as opposed to 203 degrees, but also has slightly less of a fuel demand running at 180 degrees. And if you haven't already and have some type of controller set up, maybe adjust to have your cooling fan or fans cut on around 175-180 degrees. I think making these two changes may help lessen your fuel demand being that fuel demand generally increases as your engine, oil, and coolant temperatures increase. I could go on further from what I saw in your log but I am going to stop there because I feel that a second pull with a different scanner set-up and these adjustments made will yield a bit of a different result. One final note... be sure to reset fuel composition and reset all adaptives in your scanner after loading the new scanner set-up and before making a second log. Others may chime in and add on here or even offer a different assessment, and I would suggest taking in anything else offered as well as there are quite a few knowledgeable members on here that can offer valuable insight. I'll attach my scanner channel, table, graph set-up for you to save and upload if you so choose. Hope this helps out a bit. Good luck!
no you cannotQuote:
Originally Posted by Spray-Cam Hell-Ram
if it aint got a blower (stock), chrysler is too cheap to spend the money on a pressure sensor
they just add table 34080 which is supposed to anticipate the pressure loss
which is a good reason to run a mpvi3 (you dont have to spend the extra $250 on the pro feature set)
you then add a pro link and weld a bung onto the fuel rail and add your own sensor
thanks dodge
add your own sensor Dustin
ps - how do we create a fuel system sticky here? we need one
Thank you guys. I will read through this and try to get some pulls in tonight. I REALLY appreciate the effort in these posts.
I also left out that it is a 2018 challenger scat pack 6 speed. (that is probably why you saw me release the accelerator)
Also one other question. Is there a fuel pressure sensor I can purchase and install that would assist with this?
Thank you so much for this post. My next addition I planned was that 180 thermostat. I'm currently waiting for delivery of the module that lets me read and write my tune. I had read some conflicting information on adding this. I read somewhere on these forums that adding a thermostat with the wrong fan settings can result in a power loss because the vehicle requires us to be at a certain operating temperature. It didn't really make sense but based on what you're saying it makes complete sense. When I ran this pull it was in the mid 70s. I would say the vehicle is about as cold as its going to get during the summer (lol). I will add your parameters and ill try to get a pull in tonight. As mentioned the drop in throttle is because manual but ill do my best to shift really fast! Also I mentioned in the previous post but if you all could suggest a product to monitor fuel pressure I would greatly appreciate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spray-Cam Hell-Ram
Another thing I would like to note. This car was tuned in a rush by a sketchy shop in Michigan. They guys on site didn't really know what they were doing. I actually went to their shop (7 hours away) and worked with the tuner who was remote and did all the tune uploads and downloads myself because their mechanic didn't know how to use computers. I imagine the tune probably has issues.
One other thing the tune is doing is oscillating at idle. After normal driving the car tends to bounce between 500 rpms and 2000 rpms at a stop light in neutral until it levels off. Sometimes it can take 15 seconds to find an 800 RPM idle. The shop said "it should work itself out over time". Well it's still there but truthfully its not as bad. When I first picked up the car it was stalling out at a stop because it would bounce below 500 rpms and give out. I'll try to get a log of the issue tonight. Since it has warmed up it doesn't feel as bad, but when I drove the car around 50F it was really bad.
Is there not another option other than welding in a bung? Are there no options to T something into the fuel lines?Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSick
that was for a more stock build
You can use a simple inline fuelpressure gauge kit.