6R80 3-4 Shift Flare

I swapped a 1984 LTD with a Gen 2 coyote and 6R80 Trans, only mods to the engine is a custom 4'' intake and long tube headers otherwise.
Fighting a 3-4 Shift flare at light throttle, as you apply more throttle before the shift it goes through it fine and at WOT It shifts 3-4 fine. I am not a coyote tuner by any means Ive only dealt with GM cars but I am fighting this thing I even went as far as paying a big name tuner in the coyote world and the problem persists even worse than the file I pieced together.

I have checked fluid level multiple times, changed the valve body and lead frame brand new from ford and programmed it with the ford ids tool and have reset adaptives multiple times with no help. At the point of pulling the trans to have it rebuild but wanted to give it one more swing before hand. Attached is the current file and last log of a couple part throttle shifts any help would be appreciated!Attachment 156036Attachment 156037

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Originally Posted by fourcams

I swapped a 1984 LTD with a Gen 2 coyote and 6R80 Trans, only mods to the engine is a custom 4'' intake and long tube headers otherwise.
Fighting a 3-4 Shift flare at light throttle, as you apply more throttle before the shift it goes through it fine and at WOT It shifts 3-4 fine. I am not a coyote tuner by any means Ive only dealt with GM cars but I am fighting this thing I even went as far as paying a big name tuner in the coyote world and the problem persists even worse than the file I pieced together.

I have checked fluid level multiple times, changed the valve body and lead frame brand new from ford and programmed it with the ford ids tool and have reset adaptives multiple times with no help. At the point of pulling the trans to have it rebuild but wanted to give it one more swing before hand. Attached is the current file and last log of a couple part throttle shifts any help would be appreciated!Attachment 156036Attachment 156037

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Hello

There is a clear flare on 3rd to 4th, but also a light flare on 2nd to 3rd.

Let me know if it helped. Attachment 156077

Thanks Dodgeboy I'll give it a shot tomorrow I think some of this nasty weather has passed us, I will get a log and some results

Best its been yet, heres the log still some flare but seems to be a lot better

Attachment 156202

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Originally Posted by fourcams

I swapped a 1984 LTD with a Gen 2 coyote and 6R80 Trans, only mods to the engine is a custom 4'' intake and long tube headers otherwise.
Fighting a 3-4 Shift flare at light throttle, as you apply more throttle before the shift it goes through it fine and at WOT It shifts 3-4 fine. I am not a coyote tuner by any means Ive only dealt with GM cars but I am fighting this thing I even went as far as paying a big name tuner in the coyote world and the problem persists even worse than the file I pieced together.

I have checked fluid level multiple times, changed the valve body and lead frame brand new from ford and programmed it with the ford ids tool and have reset adaptives multiple times with no help. At the point of pulling the trans to have it rebuild but wanted to give it one more swing before hand. Attached is the current file and last log of a couple part throttle shifts any help would be appreciated!Attachment 156036Attachment 156037

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Fighting the same issue with a freshly rebuild 6R80 with the Raybestos GPZ Clutch kit and a ton of billet parts from Power by the Hour, only issue is with light throttle. The last transmission had a cracked E-drum, so this still a million times better that. I think from what I have gathered so far and have not tested yet, so grain of salt. The max line may need to be raised from 150 to around 175 psi. That could mask an internal issue, but for those that have done this already it seems to help.

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Originally Posted by shoracer

Fighting the same issue with a freshly rebuild 6R80 with the Raybestos GPZ Clutch kit and a ton of billet parts from Power by the Hour, only issue is with light throttle. The last transmission had a cracked E-drum, so this still a million times better that. I think from what I have gathered so far and have not tested yet, so grain of salt. The max line may need to be raised from 150 to around 175 psi. That could mask an internal issue, but for those that have done this already it seems to help.

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Ok and with more research TCC setting are more important for this.

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Originally Posted by shoracer

Ok and with more research TCC setting are more important for this.

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I can support your tune process. Send me an email in case of remote support needed: [email protected]

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Originally Posted by shoracer

Fighting the same issue with a freshly rebuild 6R80 with the Raybestos GPZ Clutch kit and a ton of billet parts from Power by the Hour, only issue is with light throttle. The last transmission had a cracked E-drum, so this still a million times better that. I think from what I have gathered so far and have not tested yet, so grain of salt. The max line may need to be raised from 150 to around 175 psi. That could mask an internal issue, but for those that have done this already it seems to help.

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I've bumped my pressure all the way up to 200 psi still no dice. I was in the process of possibily having mine rebulid but im afraid after reading what you went thru it may not fix the issue, fluid was dirty in mine.
Dodgeboy made some changes that helped for a few miles now its back flaring pretty good in between shifts, im lost at this point on what to do next lol!

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Originally Posted by fourcams

I've bumped my pressure all the way up to 200 psi still no dice. I was in the process of possibily having mine rebulid but im afraid after reading what you went thru it may not fix the issue, fluid was dirty in mine.
Dodgeboy made some changes that helped for a few miles now its back flaring pretty good in between shifts, im lost at this point on what to do next lol!

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All you changes do is reset adaptive and it takes a day or two until it gets into adaptive "dice of mistakes" again. Nobody is really fixing anything with tune.
This usually nothing any tune can fix and this leads to mechanical issues.

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Originally Posted by veeefour

All you changes do is reset adaptive and it takes a day or two until it gets into adaptive "dice of mistakes" again. Nobody is really fixing anything with tune.
This usually nothing any tune can fix and this leads to mechanical issues.

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Im in the process of waiting for a few local guys to get caught up to get the trans rebuilt. I got this stuff out of a mustang with 60k miles didnt drive it as it was wrecked it couldve very well been a issue before i even swapped it

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Originally Posted by fourcams

Im in the process of waiting for a few local guys to get caught up to get the trans rebuilt. I got this stuff out of a mustang with 60k miles didnt drive it as it was wrecked it couldve very well been a issue before i even swapped it

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Id check lead frame first, clutches second.

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Originally Posted by veeefour

Id check lead frame first, clutches second.

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Has a new valve body and lead frame in it