Replacing 8HP70

My 2013 Ram 8HP70 has started giving me some indication that it's on it's way out. I've settled on a low milage (71k) unit from a local yard. When I install the new transmission, what steps will need to be taken to get it back on the road again? I've spoken with two dealers and neither can tell me what needs to be done? Is there any sort of "relearn" steps that has to be taken or "reflash"? My current transmission does currently have a tune installed but I'll put the original tune back in the replacement. Can the TCM be removed and changed over to the replacement?

just swap your TCM over to the other trans. then just reset the adaptives and do a fast learn with VCM Scanner

tcm is soldered into the valve body

zf8 is notorious for valve body to housing leaks

if i were you i would drain the unit entirely, the converter too, fill with amsoil high efficiency fluid, and buy another $200 in credits

if you ask a dozen builders how to know that you have the right amount of fluid in the trans, you will get a dozen different answers : )

i have come up with my own way

it is the right way lol

call for details

Quote:

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Originally Posted by N2speed

just swap your TCM over to the other trans. then just reset the adaptives and do a fast learn with VCM Scanner

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I thought about that, but I really don't want to go messing with the valve body. I figure it's best left alone. I don't mind buying more credits. Just not sure if this was a dealer issue or something I can do within HP.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LilSick

tcm is soldered into the valve body

zf8 is notorious for valve body to housing leaks

if i were you i would drain the unit entirely, the converter too, fill with amsoil high efficiency fluid, and buy another $200 in credits

if you ask a dozen builders how to know that you have the right amount of fluid in the trans, you will get a dozen different answers : )

i have come up with my own way

it is the right way lol

call for details

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Well now you got me thinking I need to remove the valve body and put a new gasket under it. Or whatever seals it up.

metal to metal

no gasket

you can take a stone to it but you best know what you are doing : )

wait til you see how much black fiber there is inside a trans at 70k miles

bet money you change your maint sched once you do...


dont skimp, throw a new pan on that thing and stab it : )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LilSick

wait til you see how much black fiber there is inside a trans at 70k miles

bet money you change your maint sched once you do...


dont skimp, throw a new pan on that thing and stab it : )

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Last filter I changed I opted for the aluminum one on Rock Auto. Big mistake for me. Transmission wouldn't shift into park until I almost loosened the pan bolts up until the point they weren't holding anything. Didn't matter what pattern I tried tightening them, it wouldn't shift into park if the bolts close to that solenoid were too tight.

Or, there is the simple and effective way to check oil level:
1. fill it up
2. crank the engine and let the oil sump to warm it up till 50C
3. If level is correct, it will slowly drip out of plug
4. if low, fill it up some more till it starts dripping out

What pan/filter is recommended? I put the ZF fluid back it in last time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mdcarrol

What pan/filter is recommended? I put the ZF fluid back it in last time.

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I installed a pan and filter from this company on my 2020 Dodge Challenger. I've had no issues with it.

https://ppepower.com/collections/tra...ter-esr6085711

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mully95

I installed a pan and filter from this company on my 2020 Dodge Challenger. I've had no issues with it.

https://ppepower.com/collections/tra...ter-esr6085711

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Thanks.