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I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C with 5.7l hemi that I rebuilt and added a comp cams stage 3 cam knowing it needed to be tuned. So I purchased the latest HP tuners tuning set. I cannot get to a nice solid tune. If I do get a solid idle , it is undrivable or will not like to idle in drive. Here is my latest tune and companion log.
Paul
if you are looking for a freebie ya might get lucky
might get blown up too tho.
i can tune it for you, or with you, if that is what you are looking for
What would you want to tune it with me?
twice as much as i would want if tuned it for you : )
depends on how long it takes.
Why so arrogant?Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSick
I am sure you are not the most knowledgeable person over here (last great example: Could not hold a technical discussion over here https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...io-doesnt-work)
Be careful. Don’t use PayPal Friends & Family. You have no protection if you have to file a claim.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1968e
I'll look at your post and see if I can give some pointers. I am not a tuner, just a nice guy trying to help those like me that want to learn
stage III cams are tricky to tune - so are 2005 NGC
be careful not to wash the rings out of the thing trying to get it right
who's torque converter did you use?
*i do not see a wide band on the log - is there one in the car?
OK Shoot me a tune no explanation necessary as long as it works. You can email me at [email protected] with what exactly you need immediately a and I'll order a wideband.
Thanks,
Paul
who built your converter?
i sometimes tweak small tune issues for free - if it is simple and quick
a stage III cam takes time to dial in - it is the opposite of simple and quick
if you are still running a stock converter, getting that thing to idle in gear may be an impossible task
Give a day or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1968e
Someone good will send you a proposal via email
No need to pay for uncertanties
earth to John
you do not know what converter is in the car or how overlap affects what is required of one.
how do you identify a good tuner, John?
how many tuners have you worked with?
have you ever worked with me?
why are you trying to degrade something you have zero experience with???
LilSick,Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSick
I did not addressed your name on this thread. But, as you addressed mine, I have the rights to reply.
Did I say I would do it? Please, read the post again... I did not.
Worked with you? I dont like getting scammed
How do you know if I have experience with tune or not? Well, you can stick with your own assumptions
Trying to degrade it? No, not at all. I am just not inflating a work to get a business (by the way, I dont use the FORUM to get my monthly payment)
Cheers!
please do not change the subject - i never insinuated that you thought you could tune
lets set aside the "how do you identify a good tuner" question and start with the other 2 that you did not answer:
1) how many tuners have you worked with?
2) have you ever worked with me?
looking for a number, and a 'yes or no' - it aint rocket science
You are funny!Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSick
You can stay with your assumptions.
Nothing to prove to you.
Lilsick
I agree with you 100% on the idle and torque converter. You and I are good. I have no problem paying you. The only reason I wanted us to do it together was that I want to know each of the changes going into my tune. So if something arises, I know what to do, and I can take care of it.
I do have a few questions. Is it customary for it to throw DTC codes as it stalls? I sometimes I encounter, but disregard unless it keeps coming up. Ive also noticed if the battery is not fully charged with a charger on it to keep it up, and you are doing small idle adjustments that requires reflashing run and reflashing...etc You can induce DTC's because of low voltage to the ECU. Do you agree?
I guess I should also tell you I am an ASE certified mechanic, Ive done the entire job myself, including rebuild (which I am certified in also).
Please don't worry about others on my thread. The car has such a low first gear, it wants to get going. It will idle a few seconds or a minute but I am standing on the brake. Then inevitably it will start bucking and I thought I was doing something wrong. So I totally agree with you about the torque converter.
Have you had a chance to look over the datalog? If you look at the data log you can see where I was driving and it stalled twice. If I did a slow and go it worked. I looked over the current tune and its possible to change the stall speed from 3000 RPM to something higher in first gear. Do you not agree with this? I have cash up front if you will help. I need help. Ive been doing this all myself without any help whatsoever, I need another brain on this other than my own.
Thanks
Paul
yeah that guy has no idea who i am or what i do.
mechanically solid it shouldn't be throwing codes unless you have some boxes checked that should not be (in the dtc's)
ya cant loosen a converter without cutting it open
and i have not studied the tune or the log yet.
shoot me a email -
vvv
What’s you’re charge to remote tune Lilsick?Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSick
i tune for smiles, not dollars, as i retired early and claim, oops i mean have, no additional income
how many smiles depends on a bunch of variables, but approximately:
300 for a gen 3 hemi 'stage I' PCM tune
add 300 for cammed hemi or stock 3.6
add another 150 if it has long tube headers
add 300 for nag1, if you want that tuned too
add 600 for zf8
add 300 per day at the track
*i never use templates - all i tune is mopar - i know how to win and have experience doing so : )
Attachment 159693 here you go and try this out ! reset the fuel trims and dial in your fueling.