Stock LQ4 Power Enrichment Tuning help

First time diving into HP Tuners, but I have looked around pretty significantly and made adjustments based on what I have read in the forums and help guides. I mainly focused on MAF calibration due to a CAI and no cats and the power enrichment adjustment tables. I have datalog before and after making the changes, and it seems like I am getting spark knock anytime I make changes in the PE area. I am running stock timing and only added fuel in the EQ Ratio table. I have run 93 octane and even octane boost and still seem to get the knock around the same spot. I though that it wasn't real, but it seems like if I go back to stock tune I don't knock at all (maybe due to PE never kicking in)? I do have a broken exhaust manifold bolt, but I assumed that it would knock all the time independent of tune if that was causing an issue. I also tried to tune out burst knock and reduce the KS sensitivities (not sure if I got those right).

Any chance that I could get someone to look over my tune/ logs and see if I am just missing something, or if I made too drastic of changes?

It is a 2005 Chevy 2500 with a LQ4 and a 4L80e.

Attachment 162109Attachment 162110

From what I’m seeing in your log, all of the knock spikes are confined to the 2 700–3 000 RPM window and only occur when Power Enrichment fires even though you’ve only leaned your Equivalence‐Ratio table. Your coolant, MAF airflow and base advance stay rock‐steady before and after the knock flags, which points to either a genuine lean spike or an exhaust leak “ringing” your knock sensor. First, fix that broken manifold bolt (or reseal the leak) so you eliminate any false‐positive noise and prevent local AFR fluctuations upstream of the sensor. Soften your PE transition: enrich a few percent earlier in that 2 700–3 000 RPM band (or bump the PE AFR multiplier) and pull less timing in your PE spark clamp this will stop you from undershooting fuel or ramping timing too aggressively right when enrichment kicks in. Reshape your main spark map by easing out the hard advance jumps in that RPM/load window (and taper off the 48.8? plateau above 4 400 RPM) so you don’t land squarely on your knock thresholds. After those three steps & the manifold repair, earlier/milder fueling, and smoother timing contours, you should see your knock flags disappear in the next datalog :cool:

I copied over some the settings from my 2500HD. See if it makes a difference.
Also do you have a Wideband?
It shouldnt have any KR with 93 octane.
Unless you have bad knock sensors or it has bad motor mounts.

Thanks, I'll give this a try. I replaced the KS, but I did put generic ones (should have went with AC delco, I know). I was getting a bank 2 pending, but I turned of the code for sensors to see if that would prevent false positives and still let me monitor. I'll run these settings and log for any changes.

Looks like it is still showing knock. I can't hear anything, but the CAI, so I am not sure if it is real or not. Beginning to think that it is a KS going bad, or just that manifold bolt hitting at just the right spot when I get to around 40% throttle. Here are the logs from the changes you made to the tune. I am going to try and put my PE for the TPS back to the 90% it was and see if I can get it to knock anywhere in the same range.

Attachment 162118

Yea if its showing knock on 93 octane you have a issue somewhere.
And even some AC Delco knock sensors have issues. the generic ones for sure never work right.