lingenfelter 58x to 24x

Hello all, my tuner just completed a tune this morning on my brand new GM Crate motor. He has been tuning my car for a while now on different motors. So, I have complete trust in him. The issue I am having is we keep getting Crank Sensor codes, and the car jerks and bucks. I purchased the Lingenfelter 58x to 24x box prior to motor installation and installed it with the motor. It is installed correctly, with everything routed away from heat, coils and spark plug wires. I am pretty methodical and followed the instructions to a "T". I even called Ling., to verify, but did not get much help. Basically they said if the box is lighting up the way it is supposed to, then there is no problem with their box. I did ask even if it receives a good signal (indicated by the Green light), could it be sending a bad signal to my computer? He said yes, but then said no because it is lighting up Green.

I replaced the Crank Sensor that came with the motor with a new one from the parts store. Same issue... The new motor is a 58x, my car is a 24x. The motor I pulled out is a LS3 with a 24x wheel I had installed on the crank so I would not have to go through the Lingenfelter box, it worked flawlessly.

I have done some research on it, I have seen where the box has worked perfect for years for some, and some had issues. My tuner recommended replacing the box with a new one to rule out the current one. I understand what he is saying, and yes that is on my list of things to do. But, before I spend another $300.00+ again, I wanted to see if anyone else had this issue,or knew what to look for.

It is truly a plug and play system. I have the correct lights when I should, I am getting tach signal to my instrument panel. When idling, there is no issue. In neutral, we revved up to 3k and back down smoothly with no issues. We were able to get one 3k-6k pull, then it went back to the issues.

Is it possible the code I am getting is false, and it is really something else?

Has anyone seen this before? What was the issue/fix? Thanks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 02Vette

Hello all, my tuner just completed a tune this morning on my brand new GM Crate motor. He has been tuning my car for a while now on different motors. So, I have complete trust in him. The issue I am having is we keep getting Crank Sensor codes, and the car jerks and bucks. I purchased the Lingenfelter 58x to 24x box prior to motor installation and installed it with the motor. It is installed correctly, with everything routed away from heat, coils and spark plug wires. I am pretty methodical and followed the instructions to a "T". I even called Ling., to verify, but did not get much help. Basically they said if the box is lighting up the way it is supposed to, then there is no problem with their box. I did ask even if it receives a good signal (indicated by the Green light), could it be sending a bad signal to my computer? He said yes, but then said no because it is lighting up Green.

I replaced the Crank Sensor that came with the motor with a new one from the parts store. Same issue... The new motor is a 58x, my car is a 24x. The motor I pulled out is a LS3 with a 24x wheel I had installed on the crank so I would not have to go through the Lingenfelter box, it worked flawlessly.

I have done some research on it, I have seen where the box has worked perfect for years for some, and some had issues. My tuner recommended replacing the box with a new one to rule out the current one. I understand what he is saying, and yes that is on my list of things to do. But, before I spend another $300.00+ again, I wanted to see if anyone else had this issue,or knew what to look for.

It is truly a plug and play system. I have the correct lights when I should, I am getting tach signal to my instrument panel. When idling, there is no issue. In neutral, we revved up to 3k and back down smoothly with no issues. We were able to get one 3k-6k pull, then it went back to the issues.

Is it possible the code I am getting is false, and it is really something else?

Has anyone seen this before? What was the issue/fix? Thanks.

---

One of Three products that I have never seen work correctly myself. Translator box, flat response knock sensor harnesses and X-Links.

I agree. Ive had nothing but issues with the 58x - 24x box.
Id rather just swap the reluctor on the crank.

I have not experienced this issue however, I did use the Ling 58x-24x converter on my LS3 swapped C5 and so far, 13 months later and ~6000 miles, no issues at all (knocking on wood!). Just a data point for you. Good luck and post what you find.

Reminds me of the LT1 Optispark. How do you know if it is bad? You put a new one on and if it fixed your problem it was bad.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 2xLS1

Reminds me of the LT1 Optispark. How do you know if it is bad? You put a new one on and if it fixed your problem it was bad.

---

Please, do not remind me of that design... I had a '96 Impala SS with a D1SC, and stand alone management for a 4L80E. back then, finding someone who could tune the motor correctly was impossible... And yes, I went through several opti's on the set up. To this day, I still get a sick feeling thinking about it, lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 02Vette

Hello all, my tuner just completed a tune this morning on my brand new GM Crate motor. He has been tuning my car for a while now on different motors. So, I have complete trust in him. The issue I am having is we keep getting Crank Sensor codes, and the car jerks and bucks. I purchased the Lingenfelter 58x to 24x box prior to motor installation and installed it with the motor. It is installed correctly, with everything routed away from heat, coils and spark plug wires. I am pretty methodical and followed the instructions to a "T". I even called Ling., to verify, but did not get much help. Basically they said if the box is lighting up the way it is supposed to, then there is no problem with their box. I did ask even if it receives a good signal (indicated by the Green light), could it be sending a bad signal to my computer? He said yes, but then said no because it is lighting up Green.

I replaced the Crank Sensor that came with the motor with a new one from the parts store. Same issue... The new motor is a 58x, my car is a 24x. The motor I pulled out is a LS3 with a 24x wheel I had installed on the crank so I would not have to go through the Lingenfelter box, it worked flawlessly.

I have done some research on it, I have seen where the box has worked perfect for years for some, and some had issues. My tuner recommended replacing the box with a new one to rule out the current one. I understand what he is saying, and yes that is on my list of things to do. But, before I spend another $300.00+ again, I wanted to see if anyone else had this issue,or knew what to look for.

It is truly a plug and play system. I have the correct lights when I should, I am getting tach signal to my instrument panel. When idling, there is no issue. In neutral, we revved up to 3k and back down smoothly with no issues. We were able to get one 3k-6k pull, then it went back to the issues.

Is it possible the code I am getting is false, and it is really something else?

Has anyone seen this before? What was the issue/fix? Thanks.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 02Vette

Please, do not remind me of that design... I had a '96 Impala SS with a D1SC, and stand alone management for a 4L80E. back then, finding someone who could tune the motor correctly was impossible... And yes, I went through several opti's on the set up. To this day, I still get a sick feeling thinking about it, lol.

---

I had a LT1 that was factory optispark deleted using Cadillac Northstar DIS. Ran great in the ski boat it was in.

I've installed that box many times without fail going back nearly 20 years now. I've never had or seen one go bad. Guess I just been lucky. I have a car in the shop now with one. No problems.

As detailed as the story was there's no mention of an actual code number which would be the first step in trying to diagnose it.

Also, I'd assume it's an 02 Vette (although that wasn't stated) that's had the engine swapped out at least 3 times now, and no mention of the condition of the factory crank sensor connector or pins. These connector pins are known to "spread" after many years and many connects and disconnects. That would be the first thing to check based on experience.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

I've installed that box many times without fail going back nearly 20 years now. I've never had or seen one go bad. Guess I just been lucky. I have a car in the shop now with one. No problems.

As detailed as the story was there's no mention of an actual code number which would be the first step in trying to diagnose it.

Also, I'd assume it's an 02 Vette (although that wasn't stated) that's had the engine swapped out at least 3 times now, and no mention of the condition of the factory crank sensor connector or pins. These connector pins are known to "spread" after many years and many connects and disconnects. That would be the first thing to check based on experience.

---

At the time of writing the post I could not remember the code. But, I am able to replicate it. The code is P0336.

You are correct on the vehicle. The pins have been inspected and are in good working order. We thought this could have been the issue (I was hoping it was), it would have been an easy fix and would make sense why it would happen going down the road (vibration), but it is not the case. I do have the correct tooling to de-pin the GM connectors.

I still do not understand why it only does it under load. Sitting in the garage, I can free rev it with no issue. So, that rules out a wobbly ring. Also, the color code of the original sensor to the motor is Black. That is contrary to my research, it is supposed to be Grey. Even on the Ligenfelter video. There must have been a change with GM that no-one seems to know about. Although the Black Sensor does work with the Lingenfelter connector.

Keep the ideas coming, and thanks for the help so far...

I've never had a problem with one of those boxes either.

recently had a bad brand new crank sensor.

I had a customer recently buy a brand-new AC Delco crank sensor that was bad.

If it works fine in neutral, no load, to me that says it's pretty much ok electrically.

I had a car many years ago that would sit and idle all day long until you pushed the clutch pedal then it went to shit. Turns out the crank wheel was bent just enough.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

I had a customer recently buy a brand-new AC Delco crank sensor that was bad.

If it works fine in neutral, no load, to me that says it's pretty much ok electrically.

I had a car many years ago that would sit and idle all day long until you pushed the clutch pedal then it went to shit. Turns out the crank wheel was bent just enough.

---

I will test that theory today and see what the results are. You never know though...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

I've installed that box many times without fail going back nearly 20 years now. I've never had or seen one go bad. Guess I just been lucky. I have a car in the shop now with one. No problems.

As detailed as the story was there's no mention of an actual code number which would be the first step in trying to diagnose it.

Also, I'd assume it's an 02 Vette (although that wasn't stated) that's had the engine swapped out at least 3 times now, and no mention of the condition of the factory crank sensor connector or pins. These connector pins are known to "spread" after many years and many connects and disconnects. That would be the first thing to check based on experience.

---

This exactly, ive used this box countlss times with zero issues. vehicles now been running for decades. Very early boxes had issues, but that was resolved decades ago.

your issue is likey in the harness!!!

just a shot in the dark, have you checked your grounds make sure they all are on. i have one of those boxes on my setup.

So, I put the old motor back in, LS3 24X reluctor that I installed when I first built this motor a couple years ago. I also installed a bigger cam before putting it back in. It fired right up, no issues.

That leaves the following.
1) wiring in the car IS correct
2) both boxes are bad, or incorrectly pinned out (I think back to the 12v in the wrong position on the plug to the cam sensor)
3) the 58x reluctor spacing from the wheel to the machined surface is not to the dimension it should be
4) a combination of two

The block machined surface to the reluctor wheel is spot on. So, I pulled the crank out of the crate motor and will have s 24x reluctor installed next week. All should be good.

I will be sending in the two boxes to be tested at Lingenfelter, results to follow. I will say, the person at Lingenfelter that I have been trouble shooting with has been helpful when he can and easy to deal with.