Injector Specs

Greetings all.

I have a 2000 grand prix that a shop cobbled a 2001 Implala motor into.

Now i have to sort out the mess :)

Before I begin, I will mention they changed the injector plugs on the 2000 harness and installed the 2001 impala injectors.

Now the car runs lean at WOT and pulls lots of KR. Fresh 91 fuel.

Car has a new MAF and idles well.

Im wondering if the impala injectors have a different lb/h rating than the original stock grand prix injectors.

I've attached a scan for those who wish to help.

I not 100% sure yet, but it might have a vacuum leak where the EGR tube enters the manifold. Im going to pull the plastic plenum off tomorrow and see. However if there is a vacuum leak there its not a big one. Not enough for LTFT's to be running at 16%

Many thanks in advance.

Mike

i'm confused...

all L67 injectors are the same
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Pull the part numbers off the injectors and search for the Lb/h and adjust the injector lb/h vs vacuum to match if they are not stock. Also the MAF could just be off if you are using the original tune and they changes the TB some years had a TB with a hump in it others had a mast in the center they will have different readings on the MAF and they are different MAFs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KShef

i'm confused...

all L67 injectors are the same

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he said plastic plenum so its an L36 but I would also imagine all l36 injectors would be the same

Hey Guys

Thanks for the response.

You are correct, the Lb/h specs are pretty much the same. It was really only the electrical connect that changed.

When I first started out, the LTFT's were 24%. The output of the maf looked a bit "funky" so I changed it. The LTFT's fell to 16% while idling but lock at zero in wot. So I think I have a vacuum leak. I think its the EGR line to the plenum.

Im gonna pull the plenun tomorrow and see if the EGR line is cracked. Also once upon a time, this car had a plugged cat, and I hear that the EGR line melted the plastic plenum while in this state on some cars, so I'll take a look at that too.

But it sure does look like a vacuum leak at this point.

Cheer and thanks.

a ton of good maf's get replaced when all they need is to either get pulled and cleaned with crc maf sensor cleaner

or....

disconnect the maf sensor plug with the engine off of course and inspect both 1/2's of the connector for corrosion , my car had maf issues around 140k miles and I found corrosion that I cleaned up and it lasted another 40k or so when I sold it after swapping to an 85mm maf

whatever you do dont buy a reman maf from an APS they all suck and dont last - I would buy a working sensor from a 150k car and trust it more....:shrug: