4L70E tuning questions

I've asked this (as I'm sure others have) but I'm wondering how the various Patterns x, y, z work in reference to shift scheduling pattern A and B (and normal of course, all work together (if they even do) based on trac lock off vs stabl atrak off (or on).

Is there some way that the trans tune can be made to recognize a different shift patter for one or both of these settings being on or off?

Even under Shift General you have pattern type A and B which have choices like tow or performance.

An example is my 2000 Regal GS, if you pushed the "Performance Shift" button on the shifter it used a whole different tune spec.

So, short question, how does our TCC and Stl atrak buttons turned off affect our tune, or can it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 00GrcyGtr

I've asked this (as I'm sure others have) but I'm wondering how the various Patterns x, y, z work in reference to shift scheduling pattern A and B (and normal of course, all work together (if they even do) based on trac lock off vs stabl atrak off (or on).

Is there some way that the trans tune can be made to recognize a different shift patter for one or both of these settings being on or off?

Even under Shift General you have pattern type A and B which have choices like tow or performance.

An example is my 2000 Regal GS, if you pushed the "Performance Shift" button on the shifter it used a whole different tune spec.

So, short question, how does our TCC and Stl atrak buttons turned off affect our tune, or can it?

---

They dont affect the TBSS. Use pattern X on the TBSS. Unless you have a sport button, its not going to make a difference. The TC and Stabilitrak buttons dont affect the tune. I have one that has the lazy throttle issue and I fixed that with a Stabilitrak OS update from ACDelco (used a TechII). You MAY need that if youre having that issue.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jaydubb71

They dont affect the TBSS. Use pattern X on the TBSS. Unless you have a sport button, its not going to make a difference. The TC and Stabilitrak buttons dont affect the tune. I have one that has the lazy throttle issue and I fixed that with a Stabilitrak OS update from ACDelco (used a TechII). You MAY need that if youre having that issue.

---

I do have one recall issue to deal with and I need my new headlamps adjusted more professionally, could I ask about the OS update for the stabilitrak? Is it something they charge for?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 00GrcyGtr

I do have one recall issue to deal with and I need my new headlamps adjusted more professionally, could I ask about the OS update for the stabilitrak? Is it something they charge for?

---

I have a TechII. While I was tuning a TBSS, that throttle issue drove me nuts so I flashed it myself and it fixed it. I'm pretty sure the dealer will charge for it. I'm not sure how much though.

jaydubb71, are you talking about updating the EBCM to the latest calibration? I believe I flashed the latest when I looked at this probably 4 years ago. My 08 still seems a bit lazy for the first bit of pedal travel, then jumps and behaves normally, probably should work on the ECM tune again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScarabEpic22

jaydubb71, are you talking about updating the EBCM to the latest calibration? I believe I flashed the latest when I looked at this probably 4 years ago. My 08 still seems a bit lazy for the first bit of pedal travel, then jumps and behaves normally, probably should work on the ECM tune again.

---

Nah. I'm referring to hitting the throttle and not getting more than 40% throttle. Pedal was going to max but the throttle body wasn't. And "brake" torque management was the culprit. I looked on acdelcotds and the stabilitrak needed an update. Flashed the update and the problem was fixed. ECM tune was fine. In fact, it was fine for over a year until this throttle issue popped up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jaydubb71

Nah. I'm referring to hitting the throttle and not getting more than 40% throttle. Pedal was going to max but the throttle body wasn't. And "brake" torque management was the culprit. I looked on acdelcotds and the stabilitrak needed an update. Flashed the update and the problem was fixed. ECM tune was fine. In fact, it was fine for over a year until this throttle issue popped up.

---

Just curious how you knew you had this condition? My TB opens all the way when I see it at idle, is this condition under a load? Mine seems to have what I'd describe as a throttle stop like on a drag car, so maybe mine could launch a little better.
I'm not sure how these AWD models did at a dead launch, were they kinda lazy feeling because the AWD?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 00GrcyGtr

Just curious how you knew you had this condition? My TB opens all the way when I see it at idle, is this condition under a load? Mine seems to have what I'd describe as a throttle stop like on a drag car, so maybe mine could launch a little better.
I'm not sure how these AWD models did at a dead launch, were they kinda lazy feeling because the AWD?

---

This was an AWD converted to 2WD. I saw this happening in the scanner. When the owner was describing it to me, I was confused until I actually saw it on the scanner. And yes, This happened when stabbing the throttle. Fixed that. But NOW when you try to do a burnout, brake torque kicks in a it wont do a burnout. Ive done everything. But NOW Im wondering if it was saving itself BECAUSE the trans recently took a dump. No indication something was wrong but oh well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jaydubb71

This was an AWD converted to 2WD. I saw this happening in the scanner. When the owner was describing it to me, I was confused until I actually saw it on the scanner. And yes, This happened when stabbing the throttle. Fixed that. But NOW when you try to do a burnout, brake torque kicks in a it wont do a burnout. Ive done everything. But NOW Im wondering if it was saving itself BECAUSE the trans recently took a dump. No indication something was wrong but oh well.

---

I was told by a couple other tuners on here that the ABS still sneaks in a bit so to truly "free wheel it" you would also have to switch this off. I think I am ok on the throttle issue, I can watch it on the scanner it if I tromp on it, it goes all the way to 83% (this was also a glitch I am told is in HPT)
I do have a couple other questions, I am trying to determine if the "Safety Shifts" under Transmission > Shift Schedule were really what they're named, along with the Part Throttle D1. I will use a 4T65E-HD like what is in my Regal GS, it's a 2000. There were settings in the tuner that allowed me to just leave the shift lever in D1 and it would shift at a certain speed/RPM without having to move the shifter.

I have come up with other questions on these trans. you have Force Motor Current, (an item I don't touch) Shift Scheduling, (which I mostly understand except question in my just previous post) Shift Pressures > General > Pressure Pattern (all set to pattern X) as you mentioned and then we get to Upshift > General and pressure modifiers.
My question is since you can modify pressure under General (Pattern X) and as well adjust pressures for 1>2, 2>3 shifts etc. I am just wondering if you should or not, and possibly which is better to adjust?
It seems the adjust under General > Pattern X would increase pressure across all tables, so why would you need to increase the pressures on the "per shift" tables as well?

Then we get to Shift Timing > Base, Adder and Multiplier, which is greatly confusing as I am to understand the idea is to "reduce the amount of torque" at the moment of shift to keep from slipping "feeling like it takes 30 seconds to shift" but yet making it crisp and quick, not so much harder (maybe just a tiny bit), but the factory tune in this thing had pressures and shift points that would hit pretty firm at 10mph under minimal throttle.

I have adjusted these items a bit as I read and learned more, the shifts feel great at lower rpms/speeds, no take off and bang into 2nd under normal driving, but I also know these 4L70's are a weak link in this heavy hot rod, so I have never had anyone or read anything that really spells all this out very well, other than one member said the tranny is happier when it is shifting (that 300ms) time or so at a lower torque (but more pressure), which I have increased the Torque Mngmnt > Torque Reduction a good bit from the factory setting, about 20 to 35% in fact or close. I have also increased both the General > Pattern X and the 1>2, 2>3 mofifiers.

With a higher mileage truck, even though I have a warranty (my best buddy is my shop guy) so no worries there, I don't wanna blow my tranny anytime soon for setting something in the tune very wrong.

So basically is raising the pressure in thegeneral pattern X really even necessary if you can increase the pressure modifiers only on the shift pressure modifiers?

Thanks for all the help by the way, much appreciated!

BUMP - Anyone?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 00GrcyGtr

I have come up with other questions on these trans. you have Force Motor Current, (an item I don't touch) Shift Scheduling, (which I mostly understand except question in my just previous post) Shift Pressures > General > Pressure Pattern (all set to pattern X) as you mentioned and then we get to Upshift > General and pressure modifiers.
My question is since you can modify pressure under General (Pattern X) and as well adjust pressures for 1>2, 2>3 shifts etc. I am just wondering if you should or not, and possibly which is better to adjust?
It seems the adjust under General > Pattern X would increase pressure across all tables, so why would you need to increase the pressures on the "per shift" tables as well?

Then we get to Shift Timing > Base, Adder and Multiplier, which is greatly confusing as I am to understand the idea is to "reduce the amount of torque" at the moment of shift to keep from slipping "feeling like it takes 30 seconds to shift" but yet making it crisp and quick, not so much harder (maybe just a tiny bit), but the factory tune in this thing had pressures and shift points that would hit pretty firm at 10mph under minimal throttle.

I have adjusted these items a bit as I read and learned more, the shifts feel great at lower rpms/speeds, no take off and bang into 2nd under normal driving, but I also know these 4L70's are a weak link in this heavy hot rod, so I have never had anyone or read anything that really spells all this out very well, other than one member said the tranny is happier when it is shifting (that 300ms) time or so at a lower torque (but more pressure), which I have increased the Torque Mngmnt > Torque Reduction a good bit from the factory setting, about 20 to 35% in fact or close. I have also increased both the General > Pattern X and the 1>2, 2>3 mofifiers.

With a higher mileage truck, even though I have a warranty (my best buddy is my shop guy) so no worries there, I don't wanna blow my tranny anytime soon for setting something in the tune very wrong.

So basically is raising the pressure in thegeneral pattern X really even necessary if you can increase the pressure modifiers only on the shift pressure modifiers?

Thanks for all the help by the way, much appreciated!

---

I have an issue with configuring the shift patterns. Under shift properties I have pattern a and pattern b. For pattern a Pattn 1 is selected from drop down and for pattern b normal is selected. I am confused because all the readings I have looked at say normal is its own pattern them pattern a and b is usually cruise and in my case towhaul. Also aside note when you go over a few tabs it shows normal corresponds with pattern x. Pattern a corresponds with pattern y. Pattern b corresponds with pattern z. I just don't understand why pattern b has normal selected.