Like to know what you guys that are trans tuning guru's think is a ideal clutch fill time with the 6F55 or even the 6F35 ?
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Like to know what you guys that are trans tuning guru's think is a ideal clutch fill time with the 6F55 or even the 6F35 ?
Dredge up a almost four year old thread that all I got was crickets, lol. Any takers this time around ?
Well from my understanding the clutch fill times are what it IS doing not what you WANT it to.
Have I changed mine? yes lol but never saw any results.
What is your issue 2-3?
I think the reason there is no responses is you did not post your tune file so we can see the changes that are available.
Clutch fill time as the name suggests is the time required to fill the clutch. Lowering this time will help to quicken the shift but...
Going to low might result in ramping up the empty or somehow half empty piston with might result in a flare or slip.
There no any rule of thumb here as this depends of many things like: power, mods, wear out, temp etc.
Sometimes its better to have slower shift and not wear the trans. Most "tooners" would just disable torque reduction and reduce fill time,
maximize the ramp rates and when it slips after 4-5 passes as your clutches are burnt alread...and they will tell you you need build trans.
Id personally lose 0.3s and safe the tans unless someone wants full send...
Clutch fill times are time given to the off going clutchs to disengage.
As with all other changes made to the transmission pressure and times, You basically have to watch the input shaft(turbine) speed vs the output shaft speeds and make sure they are going from one gear ratio to another smoothly.
They are the only two speed sensors you have, no other speeds are monitored to determine which clutch is slipping. Looking at just Engine RPM can be misleading due to TC/TCC slip.
Ford measures the flow rate for all of their solenoids used in the 6F30, 6F50, 6R80 and 6R140 applications. Transmission calibration software is then loaded, taking into consideration
the individual solenoid flow characteristics and their position in the valve body. You are probably changing things you don't need to be as its largely the torque reduction slowing things down and softening things up for a more comfortable shift.
More about the physical operations of these transmissions. 6R and 6F are not that much different.
Rotating multi-plate clutches are balanced in terms of dynamic pressure. That is, their pistons are exposed to
the transmission fluid flow on both sides, in order to prevent pressure buildup in the clutch as speed increases. This equalization
process is achieved by a baffle plate and pressurefree transmission fluid supplied by a lubricating passage, through which the space
between piston and baffle plate is filled with transmission fluid.
The electro-hydraulic shift action is obtained by means of the positions of manual, drive enable, multiplexing, latching, and regulating valves in the main control valve body, actuated by pressure
regulators. They engage or disengage the relevant clutches or brakes at the correct moments.
D: multi-disc brake
-Regulated hydraulic pressure from the regulator valve in the valve body pushes the low/reverse clutch (D) piston against the
low/reverse clutch (D) pack to apply the clutch.
-When the low/reverse clutch (D) is released, the CL EXH circuit supplies the D1 regulator valve which fills the CL D1 circuit and the
low/reverse (D) clutch. Also, the clutch D2 latch valve directs line pressure regulated to approximately 21 kPa (3 psi)
to the CL EXH circuit which fills the volume of the unused clutches and circuits.
A: rotating multi-plate clutches:
-Regulated hydraulic pressure from the regulator valve in the valve body pushes the forward clutch (A) piston against the forward
clutch (A) pack to apply the clutch.
-When the forward clutch (A) is released, the clutch A regulator valve directs exhaust circuit pressure from the CL EXH circuit to the
CL A circuit to fill the circuit and the forward clutch (A) with fluid at low pressure, approximately 21 kPa (3 psi).
B: rotating multi-plate clutches:
-Regulated hydraulic pressure from the regulator valve in the valve body pushes the direct clutch (B) piston against the direct clutch
(B) pack to apply the clutch.
-When the direct clutch (B) is released in 1st, 2nd, 4th or 6th gear, the clutch (B) regulator valve directs exhaust circuit pressure from
the CL EXH circuit to the CL B circuit to fill the circuit and the direct clutch (B) with fluid at low pressure, approximately 21 kPa (3
psi).
C: multi-disc brake
-Regulated hydraulic pressure from the regulator valve in the valve body pushes the intermediate clutch (C) piston against the
intermediate clutch (C) pack to apply the clutch.
-When the intermediate clutch (C) is released, the clutch C regulator valve directs exhaust circuit pressure from the CL EXH circuit to
the CL C circuit to fill the CL C circuit and the intermediate clutch (C) with fluid at low pressure, approximately 21 kPa (3 psi).
E: rotating multi-plate clutches:
-Regulated hydraulic pressure from the regulator valve in the valve body pushes the overdrive clutch (E) piston against the overdrive
clutch (E) pack to apply the clutch, Solenoid D increases pressure to the clutch E regulator and latch valve.
-When the overdrive clutch (E) is released, the clutch E regulator valve directs exhaust circuit pressure from the CL EXH circuit to the
CL E circuit to fill the circuit and the clutch with fluid at low pressure, approximately 21 kPa (3 psi).
Thanks everyone, I can get a copy of m y currant file posted in a bit. I had forgotten about starting that thread to be honest, LOL. I figured it's been four years, and people might have a better idea than they did back then. I've got my 2nd to 3rd shifts rock solid since then, and really have the trans figured out. That being said,it might not be ideal, but it seems to do fine, though time will tell far as wear n tear goes.
it would be great to get quick shifts without the harsh snaps of ramping up the pressure.
Here ya go, currant file I'm on. Shifts are nice, not super fast, but I don't want that or hard. Big thing is I fixed the dreaded 2nd to 3rd lazy shift everyone hates.
I've been working on this for along time with my 2.0.Quote:
Originally Posted by skylinedan
What was your plan of attack? Our values are too different for me to want to copy paste because I'm really happy with ever other shift.
I feel like I've reduced enough offgoing pressure to create a little flair and I keep upping the oncoming like crazy but it's just not ramping in fast enough at certain rpm and torque levels. The RPMs are overshot a little also. I think the bump I'm feeling is the clutch holding pressure rather than the oncoming pressure for the new gear, but I'm starting to doubt my understanding of how this all works.
Any guidance would be MUCH appreciated.