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So being pretty good with the L61 on my 2002 Cavalier I got a head start on the tune for my new car, which is a Cobalt SS, I got a hold of a few flashes that were in the collection on here and WOW. I am SOOOOO lost. I dont even know where to start, theres like 4x as much stuff to change and I think I'm going to end up doing more harm than good changing stuff.
Lol going from a cobalt ss sc to a cavalier I found the change simple. but it's really the same changes you can make, but 4 different ways to get there. aka the biggest thing is injectors, cavaliers used constance which is WAY easier, but with a table like the cobalt you can fine tune alot easier.
Start with injectors, then the MAF sensor, without a wideband you'll have to do it the guess way by tuning VE table in SD then turning off SD and tuning MAF to bring the LTFT zerod out. After that let the wind take you :)
I dont even know what the MAF does really
i do have a wideband it just needs installed, confusing
Wideband will be great to make sure you don't run your car over the limits on fueling. The Maf sensor (Mass Airflow) is attached to your intake in the fender well, it also has the intake temp probe, and is your cars way to know how much air is getting into your engine (well one of the ways.) The MAF will be your way of adjusting air to match the fuel that will be entering your engine.
Interesting so I got the car now a few days ago, and scanned my stock file, is there anything worth even changing in there to a completely stock car? Ive heard that you can get a little better gas mileage tuning for winter, also whats that COT Lean cruise all aboot anything that can be changed there?
COT= cat over temp, once your cat reaches a certain temperature it adds fuel to your combustion chamber to cool it down. Other people, myself included, just disable it or put it really high. I don't use a cat so I just disabled mine so when I take it to the track it doesn't mess with the AFR. You can tune a bunch of things stock, calibrate the maf if it's off, add timing, take tq management off, reduce supercharger boost in first for traction, take speed governor off, up the rev limiter,change fan settings if you notice your car runs a little hot at idle or something, adjust ac to turn off when you have passed a certain TPS like 70% or something, or over 5k rpms if you want. There's plenty of settings you can adjust stock, that will give you a little more pep, and run more the way you want. Another thing you can adjust is idle, and startup idle. cause it's cold I have my idle set higher, but uses a bit more gas. But I need my car to warm up quick so it's fine for me, or you can just adjust the run time duration of OL at a certain temp, colder startup temps the longer car stays in OL.
Good luck :)
I live in PA so im stuck having a cat, at least for now at some point when I start modding I will have 2 pipes with and without and when inspection time comes i just whip out the cat then when its done go catless.
How does one calibrate the MAF?
For the life of me I cannot find where the rev limiters even are for this car, I had no trouble with the jbodies ive worked on.
how do i take off the torque management
Update I did find the rev limiters now
Without a wideband approach, you need to use the LTFTs, Tune the LTFTs in Speed density. That is by setting maf fail frequenzy to 0. I set p0101, 102, and 103 to first error, so when your maf fails it'll show the check engine light meaning your in SD. Now zero down your LTFT's. Then set MAF back to original HZ. Now zero down your LTFT's using the MAF table. make minor changes untill you understand where it's moving the LTFT's. It's a little more complicated then it really is.
to remove TQ management go to "Engine" then "TQ management"
change brake torque limit to max (6046)
then go to supercharger and set max boosts to 100% (except in first gear, set that to where you find the best traction to your driving style)
and set desired boost table to max
set boost limits section to max
go to "Transmission" then "TQ management"
set all tables to zero.
in the HPTuners help in the program it tells you how to remove tq management.
Yea that's what I have a 3" cti exhaust with a highflow cat, which leaks at the flanges... I need to coat the flange with rtv and let it sit before taking it to a inspection station. and I use my stock downpipe with cat punched out. I don't see a reason to get an exhaust when I'm as fast as everyone with the 3" header back exhaust.... so the power gains to me don't seem wirth the 1k mullah. since my car mods only equal 1k mullah hahaha, and I'm at 13.7 normal shifting and only have a 2.2 60ft i think I got on stock tires and that's pretty high for a good run.
Good luck
Oh wont attempt to tune fuel without my wideband hooked up just yet
My brake torque limit table is set at 6045 across the board, is that really any different than 6046?
did the boost limits for 2nd gear im giving it 100 all the way across so that should be full boost
under boost limits i moved ETC boost and TCS boost to 100 and also COT boost to 100
well i have a 5 speed so theres nothing under transmission
All LSJ's are 5 speed in the cobalt ion series. but you still have transmission tables, but really only the torque managment section would affect a 5 speed tranny. You can still tune fuel without a wideband just it won't be perfect. As long as you don't get ignorant you won't have any problems. No it doesn't matter if it's 6046 or around there, anything over 1000 is fine lol, but higher just means more improbable your car will see that.
Lastly I've never yet found a way to stop boost from bleeding off after 5k rpms, except plugging one of the bypass hoses. even setting superchartger to 100% boost on all tables with no management won't stop that. I still bleed boost but at track I plug it, but since I lost boost letting my engine breathe more I don't really worry about so little boost lost. Good luck
hmm which one is that one which lets you log boost what PID is that?
also whats the correct PID for throttle position I cant seem to find it
OK so last night I took my first log of the cobalt seems I may have some issues the car is bone stock with no mods I have 1500 miles on the car, not sure if that has anything to do with the tune ive heard that it changes after 5000 miles. I dont have my wideband hooked up just yet.
I included my uber cool guage setup (best one for the cobalt evar) and also my log of the drive.
Things that concern me is that my commanded AFR is 10.8 which seems way too rich and my injector duty cycle reaches 127%, why is Gm running the injectors this hard and incorrect on a brand new car?
LOL 10.8 AFR. It should be around 11.7. I saw that the cobalts don't run as rich as they command. I was commanded to a 11.7 and still saw about 12.4 on a sniffer.
As for the duty cycle that's outrageous! You want to be around 42.5# injectors. Get the Bosch style, not the GM ones. the GM ones are overpriced, and tend to over duty cycle with the smaller pulleys. The 2.7" is the most fun pulley to drive with, go with the ZZP pulley (trust me) I love Intense Racing, but ZZP pulleys are easier to install on the blower, especially the ones below 2.9"
Well looks like the MAF is pretty much dead on as far as calibrations go, I just want to confirm something here
say 2400 hz on my table says 4.96 grams per second
at that hz im reading an average of .66 lb per min converted to grams per second thats 5.00
Now if i go and put an intake on, what exactly happens and how is it recalibrated
im assuming ill read a different lb per min and have to enter a new value in my table
It doesn't recalibrate itself, the numbers will stay the same, but you can adjust your maf table to concider a little more air, but you probably want a wideband by then. I tuned mine without and checked with and it's fine though. Yea mine commanded is 11.2 but that brought me right in the sweetspot for 11.8. Good luck
Also I'd work on your LTFT if your bored. and your config is screwed up lol, doesn't flow with me. Also with your config you should change some of the histos around no KR table 2 spark tables, wideband that doesn't work? If it does work you shouldn't be 12.7 afr driving lol... and take your pe down a tad from 10.8 and you'll probably see your IDC go down a bit, stock it's only like 12 something so that's why you're seeing higher IDC on stock.
I actually dont have a wideband hooked up at the moment which is why it reads 12.7 constantly on that log file
I perfer not mess with fueling till i have the wideband actually hooked up
what i meant by the maf calibration is say i put an intake on, disable the MAF and tune my VE, i should now have different numbers showing than whats on my MAF table, then i can add the new numbers in on the MAF table based on the new VE readings
Correct BUT that contradicts you saying you don't want to mess with fueling lol. MAF sensor measures air, so the more air the computer sees the more fuel it adds, changing the MAF frequency table will affect your fueling. Just so you know.
Yea I know the MAF affects fueling, I wont be doing any reflashing until I pass 5000 miles and have my wideband hooked up, Im just gathering info right now
Just a question in my tune its the updated gm stage 2 flash. I have 200% in my max boost table under supercharger. Why would i want to go to 100%?Quote:
Originally Posted by Julex
Kyle
Think about it. In real life how can anything over 100% be effective. Anything over is just for looks, your ecm doesn't do anything different between 100% and 200%. btw you CAN'T SET 200%, only 100% so if you put in a number say 200% or 150% it will reset to 100%. It's only possible to do that is by using a gm tune or stock tune where it is already 200%. But it doesn't mean anything more.