New to tuning and could use some help with checking tune.

Hey All,

Im new to this forum and also new to tuning in general. Some background. Over the last 8 years i built my dream car. Me Not being a professional when it comes to swaps I of course had help along the way to get the car done by various shops and friends. I had recently just purchased HP tuners MPVi2 and started learning as i go. I just pull the current tune and also recorded a pull. I mainly did this just out of pure curiosity to see what my car is doing.

The reason for this post is because my current tune is currently unknown to me as to if its good or bad. I'm looking at different numbers on a 3rd gear WOT pull and nothing jumps out to me as weird or alarming. Then again what do i know haha... The issue I'm currently feeling is that the car feels a little underpowered in the higher rpms. low rpm power feels good and no idle issues. Does any of the guru's here have any advice on this current tune on my car? I just want to know if its good to go or its no good and stock was better lol. I did not do the tune and this was done by a shop years ago. I do have a BBK 80mm TB i wanted to install but this tune apparently didn't like that part being on there with revs hanging on neutral deceleration so i swapped back on the stock TB.

Engine:
2000 LS1 5.7 V8 from a Pontiac Firebird (stock)

Trans:
LS1 T56 6 speed

Rear diff:
1970 12 bolt rear 3.73 gears

Wheels and tires:
Fronts are 18x8 and rear sizing is 18x9.5
245 front and 275 rear tires

Mods:
Speed Engineering LongTube LS swap headers 1 7/8 Primaries
Pypes 2.5" X pipe with Race pro mufflers
Custom built cold air pipe and Green Filter Cone
TanksInc EFI fuel tank with Walbro 255 fuel pump and Corvette Fuel Pressure Regulator

Im attaching my current tune and my full throttle 3rd gear pull to 5100 rpm. Any advice or help is appreciated! Thanks all!

The log is missing some data.

You need to add knock retard, commanded AFR, injector pulse width avg for both banks and cylinder airmass. Get yourself a wideband oxygen sensor too, you must have one for tuning because the stock narrowband sensors can't tell you what the real time air fuel ratio is.

It's going to need more tuning on the fuel side for sure. The VE tables don't really look touched at all.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 5FDP

The log is missing some data.

You need to add knock retard, commanded AFR, injector pulse width avg for both banks and cylinder airmass. Get yourself a wideband oxygen sensor too, you must have one for tuning because the stock narrowband sensors can't tell you what the real time air fuel ratio is.

It's going to need more tuning on the fuel side for sure. The VE tables don't really look touched at all.

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Thanks for taking the time to check it out! I will add those parameters to the scanner and do another pass. I had a feeling I would need to get more data from the scanner configuration. I will also look into getting a wide band 02.

Sorry if this is a dumb question. Do i need to buy a wideband 02 with gauge if i have Pro link for my MPVI2? or can i just get a sensor and harness for the pro link? Also i just need one sensor or 2 for each side? Which brand wideband would you all recommend? I see a lot of options and don't want something that doesn't work well. Thanks!

I prefer one with a gauge because I want to watch it while I drive. Can't really watch my laptop in the passenger seat and be super safe doing it. The gauge on the dash makes it easier to glance at.

You only need 1 wideband sensor. Some people run two but this really isn't in that category for needing that.

I've run AEM widebands for years, never let me down. They still sell one for around $170-180 I think, I forget the exact model. Something like 30-4110 or the 30-0300.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 5FDP

I prefer one with a gauge because I want to watch it while I drive. Can't really watch my laptop in the passenger seat and be super safe doing it. The gauge on the dash makes it easier to glance at.

You only need 1 wideband sensor. Some people run two but this really isn't in that category for needing that.

I've run AEM widebands for years, never let me down. They still sell one for around $170-180 I think, I forget the exact model. Something like 30-4110 or the 30-0300.

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Thanks for the info! Im gonna check them out for sure. I dont have a really simple way to mount the gauge in or on dash so might need to do something clever with that. Im gonna check out those AEM ones you mentioned.

Does it matter the location of the sensor? Like drivers side collector or the passenger? I have an X pipe so would be be best to find a spot there? Thanks again for your help!

I always do drivers side on trucks because of distance of the wiring back into the cab and there are spots to feed the wiring through on that side.

The sensor ideally needs right after the merge headers and before any slips joints or clamps just to make sure you don't get exhaust readings with leaks. You can put the sensor where the front o2 sensor goes for tuning or weld in another bung right by that sensor. I always end up leaving the wideband installed full time anyway so I have a bung welded in. Some headers even come with a bung welded on one of the pipes just for wideband sensors.