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You do have a little wiggle room on your push rods if you installed hydraulic rollers like the comp cams 856's or the "Hell Cat" lifters. Having not decked the block or heads also helps your case. You can usually tell if your push rods are a bit too long because it will sound a bit more intense during idle but most people end up finding out when their push rods destroy the lifter's push rod seat and the rest of the lifter's internals.
Sorry working late tonight..... No after I put new fuel in it, it ran(which was the log I posted) But it still died once it started to warm up and idle down. I'll try running the tune you posted once im off(burn some midnight oil). Thanks for all the help with this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spray-Cam Hell-Ram
ALSO:Quote:
Originally Posted by Manchu1984
In the variable cam section how do I know where to set my intake/exhaust mins and Maxs for this cam? I noticed your degrees were a little higher then I think my will be since its a low lift.?
I have the exhaust cam min and max set for your set up and based on the fact that you mentioned that half of the full stock vvt range is still available with your limiter so Im guessing you are running the 7 cam degree (14 crank degrees) limiter. If your limiter is not a 7 degree limiter, like the one made by Comp Cams, just let us know what you installed and it can be adjusted. But I have already taken this possibility in consideration in the tune file and only allow the vvt to swing 5 crank degrees at the most in this tune so even if you came back and told me that you installed a 4 degree limiter, like the one sold by BTR Racing, we would still be inside that range and have nothing to worry about. Its safe to test out as is.
Gotcha! I was just making sure. Yeah it is a Comp Cam Phaser limiter kit. I double checked and it is 14 crank degrees.
Also, the amount of lift for your cam has no impact on your exhaust cam min and max degrees. You do however need to log "exhaust cam center line or center position" in your tune test log to see where it shows your cam at start up. You should see either 128, 125, or sometimes 127, though sometimes seeing 127 is not a good thing but we are not concerned with that right now. I have this tune set for it being at 128 at start-up because this is what is seen most often, particularly with Texas Speed cams. This is the very same cam I had put in my Ram several years ago so Im pretty familiar with tuning this particular cam. In my truck my exhaust cam center position was 128 at start up and why I chose 128 as a starting point. And try to keep in mind that these values that are being used like 125 or 128 are values based on the stock cam for our trucks. Your pcm doesnt know that youve swapped cams so when we tune the new cam, we need to work with the values used for the stock cam. 125 or 128 represents exhaust cam full advanced and therefore any use of vvt will retard the exhaust cam from this full advanced position of 125 or 128, depending on which shows in your log. So if you have a full advanced position of 128 and have a 7 degree comp cam limiter installed (The 7 degrees is in cam degrees, the values for exhaust cam center position shown in vcm scanner are in crank degrees and there are 2 crank degrees for every 1 cam degree since the crank gear spins twice as fast as the cam gear, so 7 cam degrees is equal to 14 crank degrees) then you would know that your vvt range is going to be from 128 (Full Advanced) and then retard 14 crank degrees from there, which I explained how I came up with the 14 crank degrees inside the parenthesis just above. So your vvt range in the tune would be 128 degrees - 115 degrees. Since this is the exhaust cam that we are working with in these Dodge/Ram tunes, the values decrease when retarding and increase when advancing the cam. We are retarding from a full/max advanced position so we count down from 128 degrees, hence 128 - 115. This is why you see these values input into your variable camshaft exhaust cam tables in your tune.
Heres the log after the update brother. Sounded really nice, but started to die out again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spray-Cam Hell-Ram
See if the idle steadies some on this one....
heres the recent log and tune. Its pulling 20-30%fuel
Need to be logging injector on time. It does not look like the VE is off 30% numerically. Almost looks like the injectors are different than the data.
He is right about needing to be logging injector on time. And there are some other channels you really need to be logging here as well. I think its pulling fueling because of a mechanical issue of some kind. You need to check rod length anyway so go ahead and pull your covers and see if a push rod has popped out of its cup on either side or both. Also check to make sure you dont have an injector leaking or stuck open. Also log exhaust cam center position channel to see what degree you cam says its at and we can make sure your timing is correct.
I just got a chance to look at this last log you posted. And I seem to find myself in this position a lot. But I think theres a good chance that your timing was set incorrectly. Unless you find some issues when you pull the valve covers off and see pushrods popped out maybe. Or maybe a loose phaser or bad phaser, or even a loose tensioner. But something is up with your timing system/phaser.