I forgot to mention that I am using a LC 1 with my settings at 0v is 10afr and 5v is 18
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I forgot to mention that I am using a LC 1 with my settings at 0v is 10afr and 5v is 18
Can anyone tell me if I have EGR turned on in my tune properly? I think I have the PID made correct now but I am not hetting a real reading.
I'd just like to double check that the Dynojet Wideband Commander works with HP tuners...?
Absolutely.
Just found this site, I have not ordered from them. $45.98
http://www.oxygensensor.net/widebandsensors.html
some Bosch WB O2 sensor data I've collected:
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16589
I'm researching and preparing to purchase WB O2 for the first time so I can play with SD tuning. Most of my questions have been answered by the plethora of information already posted (thanks to everyone who shared)... But there are still two simple questions I can't find an answer to. Plus, while I'm at it, I thought I might make sure I'm looking at the right part(s).
I do not want to mount any gaudy gauges in the car. I'm not a racer, just an enthusiast. Am I correct in understanding that buying this one part will take care of me? Regardless of that answer, do you recommend anything different? Is this one notoriously problematic/inaccurate/etc?
Innovate Motorsports 3744 - Innovate LC-1 Standalone Wideband Controller (from Summit Racing)
I've searched high and low for these next two answers. :banghead: They are so simple, they have to have been asked before, but I'm not finding them... So I'll just ask. I'll even make them multiple choice :D (although I welcome all feedback).
What do I do with the original NB O2 sensors?
a) Replace with WB, but only when tuning?
b) Permanently replace with WB O2.
c) Leave them alone, make new bung(s) for the WB.
One or two WB O2 sensors?
a) Doesn't even work with two.
b) Two works, but why bother? One works just as well.
c) Two aren't necessary, but are better than having just one.
d) Two are strongly recommended, but one will work in a pinch.
e) Two are an absolute requirement. Get two or get none.
Thanks for the help and tips, as always!
*correct me if im wrong*
get a bung welded to your x-pipe. Dont really think driver/passenger side is going to make THAT much of a difference in your wideband reading. and 1 should work fine...
Ford shootout link doesn't work. What were the results?
Nice... I didn't even THINK about the X-pipe. Sounds very feasible.Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
Can anyone else confirm whether this will work?
C & B
Anywhere before the cats is fine.
Well that rules out the X-pipe... So, either side works just as well? I just need to pick one?Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
Also, is the WB I posted sufficient? Quality? Total crap? I am looking for something economical, permanently mounted, and free from any gauges or control boxes in the car... I will only be using it with HP Tuners.
Here it is again:
Innovate Motorsports 3744 - Innovate LC-1 Standalone Wideband Controller (from Summit Racing)
Thanks again to everyone!
Pretty sure that will work fine, i have no experience w/ that one though. And for a ref. mine bung is located on the driver side x pipe before the merge.
I will be ditching my PLX and going to a NGK AFX wideband.
I was just looking into it a bit further... This one is teh controller ONLY, and has no actual WB O2 sensor included:Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
Innovate Motorsports 3744 - Innovate LC-1 Standalone Wideband Controller
Glad I caught that...
The correct part, that INCLUDES the WB O2 is this one:
Innovate Motorsports 3769 - Innovate LC-1 Lambda Cables with O2 Sensor
I'm ordering that one... If Summit will ever let me log in! Ugh...
Put it on the side that is likely to be leaner. So since #7 is notorious for that, use the driver's side.
LC-1's are widely used but IMO not reliable (meaning they break often). And the one you have a link to is just the controller without a sensor. You need a sensor too. The best thing going right now IMO is the NGK AFX with NTK sensor.
Thats what i like to hear!
Hey im pretty sure ive read that the NTK sensor was only really necessary for tuning with leaded fuels?
Got it. Easy 'nuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
This is just flippin sweet... I just finished the order (for LC-1 WITH the sensor) when your post came through advising against the LC-1. What's worse, I quickly checked the warranty, and it doesn't cover the O2 sensor... So if that is what is prone to breaking, then it will cost out-of-pocket to replace when it breaks. :banghead:Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
I called Summit back and canceled the order, and ordered the AFX. So, problem averted.
The AFX is on the way and will be here before my MVPI Pro upgrade, most likely... But that will give me time to get the bung welded on. So I'll be taking a couple of weeks off from tuning, I suppose.
Thanks to 5_Liter_Eater and sidewayz28 for the feedback.
I am about to embark on the same journey...
where did you get your AFX?
Oh and... I found the WB shootout article... looks like Innovative is the way to go:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...B_Shootout.pdf
summitracing.com. i can give you a link when i get out of traffic
i think Greg had something to say about that article.. and for some reason i wana say it was paid for by innovative or something like that. I think i found that info on the EFIlive forum..
Ill try to find the link later tonight after work
ballenger motorsports:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell040
with upgraded ntk sensor:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/582
with standard bosch sensor:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/357
You can find the one I got here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-91101/Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell040
Well, too late now... I already canceled the Innovative one and ordered the AFX. Just as well, everyone seems to rave about it anyway. Now, if I can figure out a way to mount it discreetly... I really don't want any aftermarket gauges in/on my dash.
Hadn't heard of it till right now, and already ordered the other... Like I said, don't like the idea of an aftermarket gauge, but I'm not changing it again. It's already been shipped anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by 07MontRedcp
04Goat
NGK AFX just came in today from summit. looks like a real nice peice of equipment. I know the perfect spot to mount this baby :yay: guna put it right inside my AC vents in the center of my dash so its out of sight.. unless your driving
Yeah, I got mine in from Summit yesterday too. Heading up to Battleground Engineering (dyno & tune shop in Atlanta) any second now to get the bung welded on.Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
I'm wanting mine concealed too. I'm going to see if I can fit it under the panel pictured below. I might even add some framework for this to raise and lower to expose the gauge when needed... But if nothing else, I can just pop the panel off when I need the gauge.
http://newleafvendors.com/cbutler/dash_day1.jpg
I just have mine in my glovebox.
yeah, I already considered that... saving it for "plan c" right now. May end up there though. We'll see. Getting the bung mounted as I type. Hoping to get started maybe even as early tonight with calibrating it and everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
I'm jealous... i have to wait on new injectors to come, and HPT is arriving tonight. then i have to remount some gauges into a radio delete panel im making. Probably take on the task next weekend.
oh yah, not to mention its pissing down rain in seattle :pray:
RAINING? In SEATTLE? Who'da thunk it! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
I got my bung welded on, and then got home and opened up the AFX box, preparing to hook it all up... and then I hit a brick wall. Ok... More of a STEEL wall. The molex/plug for the O2 sensor is HUGE. I'm just not willing to cut a 2" diameter hole in my firewall to feed through what will end up being a tiny little cable. I'll get water splashing up, and road noise, and all sorts of crap. It was very frustrating, so I tossed it all to the side and walked away for a few days.
The best solution I can come up with is to cut the cable somewhere in the middle and put small plug-type crimp connectors on the 4 or 5 wires that are in there so I can avoid having to fit the massive molex plug through the firewall.
But that seems kinda drastic... Anyone got a better idea?
any pics of the plug?Quote:
Originally Posted by 04goat
seems strange that you would have to cut a whole that big
Ok, ok... So 2" was a bit of an exaggeration. The plug is 1.5" on one side and 1.25" on the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell040
TOP VIEW:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KdT1ftIwrQE/S7...4/IMAG0027.jpg
SIDE VIEW:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KdT1ftIwrQE/S7...4/IMAG0028.jpg
How big is the side that plugs into the WB controller? Smaller I bet...
That would be a logical conclusion... Given the small number of wires, and the low voltage required, one could assume that the plug could be very small. In truth, the one at the other end is smaller, but only by a very small amount. It is much thinner, but when drilling a hole to pass the plug, the larger size must be considered.
I'm pretty much convinced that I will just have to cut the wires, solder them back together, and heat shrink them.
Here's what the other end looks like. This one plugs into the AFX gauge:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_KdT1ftIwrQE/S7...G0029.orig.jpg
I dont understand why NGK would make an O2 sensor and controller with a digital readout that has both ends of the cable so big. I agree that noone wants to drill a hole that big.
Just read the installation part of the manual.... http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/AFX...ual_REV_06.pdf.... no mention of how to pass it though the cabin wall.
Yup. I agree. I misread, and so I double-checked the manual myself. Nada. Like I said, I'll just cut, solder, and heat shrink the wires. Doing that, I should be able to make it a nice tight fit through a small (quarter inch if not smaller) hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell040
You could also disassemble the deutsch connector ( controller side of harness) by removing the plastic orange part from the plug and then releasing each wire socket, run wires thru and then reassemble. Be sure to get the wires reinstalled in the correct location. They are numbered 1-8 on the end of the gray housing so you could just match the color of wire to number on connector.
not a bad idea! whats the best way to go about disassembling that connector? thats not something youd wana f*** up
It is very easy to do. Just use needle nose pliers and grab the center part of the orange insert and pull it out. If you look down into the housing you will see little tabs that keep the sockets from being able to be pulled out the back. If you use a small flat tip screw driver and gently move the retainer toward the center and pull the wire it will come out. To reassemble just push the wire and socket thru the rubber seal and into the connector until it locks in and then reinsert the orange plastic piece again.
:doh: I should have thought of that! Thanks for a great suggestion!Quote:
Originally Posted by superwagon
Ive had to rebuild mine due to melting unde the car. Its easy to pull the wires out with some jewellers screwdrivers. Take a note of the pin configuration, pull em out, push em thru your firewall, reconnect
Simple
sounds like a plan. thanks guys!Quote:
Originally Posted by MNR-0