What MAP sensor is in the vehicle? The linear and offset are set for a 3 bar. If it's a stock sensor, that's a big problem.
Post a pic of the MAP sensor please.
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What MAP sensor is in the vehicle? The linear and offset are set for a 3 bar. If it's a stock sensor, that's a big problem.
Post a pic of the MAP sensor please.
Thanks, Alvin. I will try that. Unfortunately, I have no idea what that table should look like. I'll do some digging to see if I can figure it out.
edcmat-11 - No offense taken. I have been playing with muscle cars for 40 years, write programs and do electrical troubleshooting on meteorological towers. So, not exactly no electrical experience. Admittedly, those systems are pretty simple. Most components are switched closure or a potentiometer that ethier work or don't work. I have also avoided computer controlled cars like the plauge, stubborn old man.
Please post a pic of the map sensor or at the very least the part number off it so we can get you setup correctly. That's the first thing that needs to be done before any diag.
You don't sound like an idiot so there is hope LOL
Here is the MAF. I got the ECM from a local guy who had done a few of these. He said VATS was off and it had a mild tune. He died about a year ago, so can't really ask him for much anymore.Attachment 161396
That's the map, not the maf. But it's what I needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
"with a mild tune" would scare me since no way of knowing what that means in relation to the parts that you have. I would probably consider going back to a stock tune other than vats or at least compare each table to a stock one to rundown what is different and see if your parts match. Looks like at least the map could be off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
Attachment 161397
Here you go. Give this a try and see if it pops and bangs.
That would be the MAP, sorry.
Attachment 161398
Skip EH1 and use this one first. I forgot to fail the maf in the first one.
So, the MAF has no numbers just a QR that is too faded to scan. I did have to use an adaptor.
Trying to upload a photo but my computer decided I'm done with that. I'll try the tune you sent quick.
The tune file I posted for you is in speed density. No maf required. Your tune file has a custom operating system applied to it for some strange reason. I'm assuming this isn't forced induction with the plan being 20+ PSI of boost.
My choice would be since this is a swap, start with a completely new GM OS file instead of the 3 bar COS.
Still no start, but I do see the MAP table on the upper right of VCM scanner doing things now.
Here is a screenshot.
Screen shot is no help. Need an actual data log of it cranking.
You need a spark tester, noid light and fuel pressure gauge.
If actual cranking screen shot, you are not registering rpm. I think no RPM, no spark.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
That was just after cranking, working on getting a log of it cranking.
Here is a log and a screenshot of it cranking. I do not see RPM in the log but I see it while cranking. The battery is starting to hate life, so its not cranking very fast at the moment.
I do see RPM in the log, just wasn't looking at it right.
Need to add some pids. Need to see PCM voltage and injector ms. Looks to be cranking too slow. Need about 200 rpm out of it. One issue probably is the battery is too low. Need to get a charger on it.
Its on a charger now. I'll add PCM volage and injector ms then resend.
Module voltage is dropping way down and I cant seem to get much more than 100 RPM out of it. I might need to get a new battery or the starter could be weak.
Here is the file from the other ECM I have. Going to run to the shop and grab a serious charger. Trying to avoid running to town for a starter.
it has a P1336 code fyi
That may be similar to a 315 code for a GEN 4 but I think it can also mean irratic crank / cam
The Junkyard ECU or the one I have been using? Could that mean Timing chain?
First thing is get a good battery in the thing. Voltage is WAY too low during cranking. Battery is junk.
It's an old battery, been in my Nova for about 5 years, probably has less than 1000 miles on it and sits on a battery tender 99% of its life.
???Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
This would come from the log you posted so whatever ECM was used to generate it.
Here is cranking with a jump pack. Still drops to upper 9v lower 10v
OMG please take some advice and put a battery in it. I don't want to look at another log without a new battery powering it.
And still only about 125 RPM. Gonna have to bite the bullet and get a new battery and starter, it will be a few hours. Where do you find the DCT's in the log?
I think it's on the details tab.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
New battery, new starter, same BS. Looks like crank position is definitely an issue here. I'm wondering if its acctualy 125 RPM or 250. Would a 52 tooth sensor read 1/2 speed on a 26 tooth reluctor, or would it just not read?
It would be 58 tooth or 24 tooth. Do you know what year/donor your engine came from?Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
04 I believe. Pretty sure its the 24 tooth. Should have gotten the sensor PN when I had the starter off. I have one new in the box, GM PN 12703627, not sure if its the same one as installed on the vehicle. I'll take the starter off again.
Sensor from the car has no numbers, just a blue dot. Probably a cheap parts store brand. The other one I have is an AC Delco part but it does say China on it, looks like its the wrong one though.
Getting beyond my knowledge, but I don't think I would chase crank sensor to far at this point. If you can see the reluctor wheel with the sensor pulled, it might be worth a look at it and compare to some online pictures to confirm 24x or 58x. But I would think that since it is registering an rpm, the sensor is ok, at least for now. But I'm guessing about this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obvioustoaster
Here is the date code on the block. From what I have found, I think it is 12/28/04.
Having trouble with attachments again. I'll try again later.
Not impossible someone previously put a 58x in an older motor. But a 58x would show up as higher rpm and not lower rpm.