Try making everything except the timing maps like the ones listed in this thread. Then work your timing tables up towards what are posted while logging the car. If it likes more, give it more :)
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Try making everything except the timing maps like the ones listed in this thread. Then work your timing tables up towards what are posted while logging the car. If it likes more, give it more :)
Yeah it is a really bad one. He likes to mess with the optimum engine torque table too which is a big no no because it is used to calculate internal torque output according to optimum spark and lambda=1.00. It is not a torque limiting table.Quote:
Originally Posted by rage915
term i just sent you a email, please look it over and get back to me asap
Email sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by rage915
You have an email.
subd...
got it, now where from here
Upgrades, lol.
Just read through the first portion. Make sure you log all your changes, and look for knock. Thats the biggest thing to look for.
alright
is .5-1deg of knock ok?
Its not bad, but no knock is way better.
well gona start messing with the car tomorrow, hope alot of you guys are online cuz i think imhave alot of questions and gona need alot of help
If your not sure if something went wrong, its best to park it than to blow something up. Don't forget that.
No it runs great, just running the histograms i still got a bit here and there in maybe 3-5 cells at weird loads. I was going somewhere so i did not change them. the most part it has no knock.
Better than the stock tune on 93 octane it has 3-4* of KR all through the midrange. No knock is better though just pull a degree out in those areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobalt09SS
why do idc only show like 30?
IDC of the LNF or any other GDI motor is kinda meaningless because the injection time and injection window is so much shorter than a port injection motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by elite_cyborg
Question, I turned the Dal up to 399 and can not get any more boost out of the car. It has azzp DP and a K&n Drop in filter. I want to hold 22psi.
Even restricting the wastegate opening with external means the stock turbo runs out of gas at redline. 19 psi is about it at redline for me. When you increase the flow from the exhaust, it's harder to hold pressure but you are making more power if tuned properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobalt09SS
Might be possible with more tables available to us in the future, but raising the DAL's higher won't do it alone.
Are you seeing a spike of ~22-23 then a slight roll off, then it picks back up a lil bit??
If you are catless, try a .045 pill in line and reduce your DAL table like in the Pill Mod thread. Should have no problem breaking 22 then LOL!
No it is catted and it goes to 20psi and thats it. stays there from 3000-6000rpm
no it goes to 20and stays there. it's a catted DP. I'm adding the Hahn DP and a 3" cat back, and want to run 22psi steady. The one with only the DP is my friends I'm tuning for him. Do you have a direct link to the Pill mod thread..40 tip is what I'm going to start with.
You can read on how to install it in this thread, its the 2nd post. Then there is a thread called: Taking your pill mod to the next level. That has some tuning tips!
has anyone seen any notable gains on exhaust cam timing?
Not on the stock turbo. I lost power going either direction away from stock. People seem to be just running more Intake Advance, I picked up a decent amount of whp with just the intake cam.
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Bosch...1/article.html
http://www.ricardo.com/Documents/Dow...ST_16pp_lr.pdf
Thought some of you might like those to read on the pot. Cleared up the operating modes of DI for me a bit better. Just been doing a lot of reading on DI-Motronic/MED9.6 stuff lately. Tough to get hard specs on this system.
I think I just came up with an ingenious idea for raising fuel pressure. Now, I am not good with electronics, and i know some of you are, so help me out here. How can we trick the pressure sensor into telling the computer there is less pressure? Would it be as simple as installing a resistor (could it really be that easy?)? Or is there something we can put in the wiring to down the voltage? I know it would be tricky, and would either take alot of math, or alot of trial and error, but it would be sweet to come up with something.
EDIT: I think maybe a potentiometer could work with a fuel pressure gauge... then we could adjust settings. IDEAS?!
EDIT #2: So, resistor hooked to a WOT switch. That will work. Now, how can I go about finding the right resistor?
EDIT #3: Can we log fuel pressure? Haven't had a need to try, so I haven't tried.
Ok, so I have refined my idea, and I think it will work very well.
BTW, please respect my ideas and do not market them as your own. Also, I would appreciate if you would not take this out of this forum, much less this thread. I am hesitant to post all of this here, since I will be technically selling this for WERKS, and co-developing and testing it with them as well. Keep your eyes open for a WERKS branded product like this. I hope to keep costs low, and be able to keep it in a small, all-in-one package. I appreciate the help guys, and thank you for everything!
i actually was always wondering if installing a resistor would work, but i didn't think there was a way to log FP so i didn't wanna play with it too much. maybe i'll have a look now. I really wouldn't doubt it if this is the exact thing zzp is doing. what really annoys me is that if the tables were just unlocked we could do this all without hacking the wiring harness and without as much trial and error.
It should work if we can log fuel pressure. I think we can, but I am not sure... If i had my car at home right now, I would verify. Maybe if someone could?
It looks like we can log 'fuel system status (SAE)'. Not sure what the heck that means though. So far I can't find a fuel pressure though.
i'm still trying to figure out how to get it so i can log my boost pressure still.. i tried setting it to the baro pid, barometric pressure pid and the barometric sensor, none of them would read anything..
tomorrow after i do some of my own logging, maybe i'll try to setup something to see if i can figure out how to log FP. We'll see how much i've learned with this tuning stuff..lol
I found out the Dash hawks can log FP. I don't think we can.
Boost is a custom PID, its pretty accurate this way:
([PID.11]-[PID.2340])*.14503773773020923
Wow, i'm getting better, only took like 30 seconds to set the boost readout up. i'll see how it works tomorrow when i log. thanks!
BTW, it looks like we cannot log FP. I tried setting up a histogram for FP vs TPS vs RPM and it was all going good till i tried setting the PID thing for fuel pressure and couldn't seem to get a supported sensor that would work. idk, i am still a newbie so maybe i'm wrong, or going about it wrong.
mkriebs,
I have the official service manuals for this car, so I thought I'd post this information to help you along.
1.) If you raise the pressure via some method besides PCM, you will need likely need to disable DTC's P0088 - Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Too High and maybe also P0089 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Performance.
P0088 sets when the fuel pressure is > 290psi over commanded.
P0089 sets when the fuel pressure is +363 or -363 over/under commanded.
The manual says they are class A DTC's which result in reduced power mode.
2.) If you don't already know, the fuel rail pressure sensor is a 0-5V sensor. Pin 1 is ground, Pin 2 is signal and Pin 3 is 5V reference. I've been scouring the manuals for you, but I can't seem to find a voltage chart for this sensor. Do you own HPT Pro? Could be useful to log that voltage first before making any changes. You could log the sensor and compare it to the voltage on the aux input.
3.) Fuel pressure is SENS.34, I've logged it before and it worked for me. I used to have a gauge of it on my Scanner, but removed it because I thought it was useless.
4.) Don't use a relay, way too slow... use a transistor.
IF you end up trying this, I'd be curious how reliable of fuel pressure you'd get. Not to mention putting a secondary fuel pressure gauge/pressure sender with that range (0-2900psi) on the rail could be problematic. I would reccomend using the auxillery input (after you've logged it, and know what PSI == Voltage) and logging it before the resistor so you don't have to bother the rail.
What I mean by reliable is... would the PCM try to increase pressure in a linear way compared to how you're trying to remove it at the sensor? Or would the thing just command wide open and hope for the best? Stuff you find out through experimentation on YOUR car I guess :) I'd lean towards the former and I suspect this is how ZZP accomplished raising the pressure on their car.
I'll keep digging through the manuals for service specifications for that sensor, but like most shop manuals these days it basically just says if its throwing a DTC and the wiring is OK... replace sensor. They are also really vague on the operating pressures of the system in the manuals. I don't understand why this 2nd gen Bosch GDI system is so hush-hush.
OH MAN! That is GOLD. GOLD man! Thank you so much. I will try to log FP, and I think I might use a potentiometer at first so its adjustable, then test the resistance across that in order to find out what solid state resistor we could use.
Ideally to prevent limp mode, I want something that can have a linear introduction of the fuel pressure. But I am not the best with electrics. I will look into a transistor.
The pressure gauge on the fuel rail is a no go for sure! I am not messing with that, lol. I think if i have it hooked so its only on at WOT, then it might just trick the computer. IDK, its still in the thought process right now.
We can try it on my car anytime, lol. I don't think it will mess anything up if I go about it slow enough.
I tried setting up DI Fuel Pressure, and I couldnt get Sens.34 to read anything for me :(
Hrpmh.
If my car wasnt buried in the garage I'd try to log that again. I know I've seen it work before, but that was a couple betas ago.
i tried also, sens.34 didn't log work for me either.. but i'm a newb so i might have done it wrong.