Cannot get rid of TMA occurring when going from cruising to WOT

So far, all the recommended changes have been working very well. So well that I am now having to pull the transmission to have it rebuilt to handle the power (starting to hear some noise). Also upgrading to a triple disc Circle D and before I get it installed, does anyone have any recommended setting for a full lock up converter? Been looking online and it is mostly a matter of opinion on how to set this up. I want it to be locked up any time I go WOT but want to avoid any chatter and drivability issues.

Any suggestions or tunes I can copy form for this specific request?

If upgrading components, make sure to install the upgraded drum and have whomever do the center support pinning. The friction welds on the drum are what go at that power level.

I'm getting the circle D stage 4 with a few upgraded components so basically a stage 5 which will handle upwards of 1,000 crank horsepower

They way behind right now. I've got a guy getting a drag build done and they basically told him better to go with a built 6l90, which has a heavier center support and heavier components so he did. He's been waiting about 3 months so far. Should be ready any day I think... He was doing the same as you with the stage 5. They told him the 90 was good for another 100 horsies... It does open a slight can of worms with the driveshafts and things like that though, so probably not best in your case?

I'm already stretching myself with the tans build and the new triple disc converter. Any idea on the TCM settings for the triple? Want full lock up when I am WOT.

Watched some good videos on trans tuning. Downloaded the blue cat tool and it makes short work. I had the shop go ahead and pull it for me and they already have the transmission out, overlook the paint over spray on the converter.

The new converter and flexplate is going to have 6 bolts so it'll be a bit stronger.

Got the trans back in a few weeks ago and while making sure all the fueling was still good, the meth kit died. Bad boost sensor caused the system to see boost at idle and it was dumping meth into the system. Finally got a replacement sensor from Nitrous Express and now waiting for Summit Racing to get me my replacement nozzle since my original one snapped when I removed it. I did wire my cutout to operate a relay that will send power to my solenoid that engages the power nozzle. So when I open my cutout, I see an extra 2psi of boost and it will spray additional meth into the engine so it will not go lean as it is out of fuel at that boost level. I have it set so the power nozzle will only activate with the cut out switch engaged. Ordered a few extra size nozzles to dial it in with the cutout. Its gonna be a fun little power adding button!!

Question for you guys, with the new triple disc converter, I attempted to log my 0-60 mph time and noticed that it will only go to 2,500 - 2,600 rpms when foot braking. The old single disc would push through the foot brake but the new converter is not going past 2,600 RPMs, even with the foot on the brake and the throttle to the floor. Couldn't find any differences in the tune changes that I could think of to change to allow more RPM when launching. Any advice?

Circle D triple disc 3,400.

Post the tune or email it to me if you don't want to post it. Might be able to change some background stuff for you.

Just got back form a test and tune and figured it out, I lowered my TCC slip error rate and that was the issue. It was allowing too much slip which was not allowing it to rev past a certain limit. Now in 2WD it will break traction just as before so I seems to be good to go. Now I can adjust a little portion at a time until I get the best take off.

Thanks Man!

There's some background limiters for torque on takeoff that might still come into play. If you see it start misfiring or timing jumping up and down or it just feels a little weak for no apparent reason, it's most likely those. Keep an eye out for them. If you have user defined you can email Will and get the xdf and adjust everything yourself.

I appreciate it GHuggins, I broke down and purchased the +30% FICGDI injectors and have the tune ready once I get them installed. Hoping that will let me add a few mor psi of boost with the extra fuel.

What is the background limiters you are referencing? Luckily, I am not seeing anything out of the normal, only the injector pulse width spike I mentioned in post #105 but I played around with the MBT alcohol adder table and got that to look much better. Just zeroing it out made a better flatter injector curve compared to a hard spike when it was stock and modified. Does that sound correct to you?

I've never completely 0ed it out before to know. What little I do know from coders who are able to see what the code ties to is supposedly the mbt tables are used for IVT calcs, cat calcs and egr instances. There are IVT open loop tables, so maybe that's why 0ing it out made the difference?

The mbt supposedly has nothing at all to do with torque or peak engine torque calcs. It's just timing to IVT relation. OR that's what it was on the gen 4's. I assume it stayed the same on the gen V's.

There are accel and traction for brake torque management settings in the background. Basically they will limit torque from what I assume is rapidly changing individual cylinder timing based off of time and speed. They really help out at the drag strip as long as you have the rest of the tune to work with them. For a setup like yours you will need to adjust the throttle area and pedal tables too, especially if you really want it to jump. Just ask Will to give you all the same tables I usually get. If you need help on adjusting them you can email me.

Verlon was the one who helped explain how the aforementioned tables relate to one another and work.

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Originally Posted by GHuggins

...Just ask Will to give you all the same tables I usually get. If you need help on adjusting them you can email me...

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How do I get this info as I would like for this thing to come out of the hole a bit better than it does.

I compared many other tunes regarding the MBT table and most people had it zeroed out so I tried it and made subtle changes and decided that all zeros seemed to have more control.

***edit***Uploaded my tune for you to look at concerning the tables you were mentioning.

I didn't change anything with throttle or pedal, just the torque limiters. I also changed traction control to where when it's off, it's off. Write entire. You'll need to get user defined and email Will to be able to shape the pedal and throttle how you want them. I also changed DD slightly to help with take offs. Just a shot in the dark on that part.

Thanks, never thought of upping that range for the Driver Demand. Uploading and testing now...

***edit*** A lot more low end grunt but wasn't able to do a solid test due to all the after work traffic. I did up the Driver demand a bit more as it was at 800 and I was seeing near 900 in the logs.

GHuggins, Sent you a PM...

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Originally Posted by lynmup

A lot more low end grunt

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I bet your log will show the same throttle, timing, boost and afr's too. Funny how much different it makes them and it'll still show everything the same :) I just figure torque management changes the timing to different cylinders so fast that the scanner won't pick it up. Also why you'll see some on rare occasions start misfiring just in first gear on gen V's taking off. Torque converters with higher stalls allowing quicker revs seems to always make it worse.

When the boost sensor for the Meth injection went bad, it dumped a lot of boost juice into the intake manifold thus fouling all my plugs. I had to turn on the misfires to troubleshoot as it was running very bad. Finally swapped plug wire #8 and it all went away so it is good but I do see 1 to 2 hits when I accelerate but nothing like it was. Was getting over 100 counts and it was sputtering under WOT. Now it does very well.

Pulled the intake manifold and fixed a major leak from where it was ported as it was leaking horribly. While it was apart thought it a great time to upgrade to the FICGDI 30%+ LT4 injectors and when I finally fired it up, # 5 is misfiring like a son of a gun. Thought I broke the wires at the connector so I ordered a new one and soldered it in and still have #5 misfire. Swapped coils, plug & plug wires and pulled the intake manifold and reseated the connector to the injectors and still same thing for #5. Attached the last log to show.

It had no misfires before I pulled the manifold for the repair and none of the coils or plug wires were removed so no idea why # 5 is misfiring consistently. Could an injector be causing this? Tomorrow I'm thinking about swapping #5 & #1 injector to see if the problem moves to #1. Otherwise I am at a lost and very frustrated and depressed. Any ideas?

Remember I already swapped the coil, plug, plug wire (twice) and replaced the coil connector and resoldered it twice to make sure I had the wires in the correct order.

Well, either something found it's way into the hole or the new injectors have a problem. I would say injector. Quick compression check would say for sure.

Thanks Man, I went through each injector on the VCM scanner and disabled each injector one by one, when I disabled #5 the truck ran no differently but all other cylinders changed the idle significantly. Going to pull the manifold and swap #5 and #1 and see what happens. If it moves then I'll put my old ones back in and see about a refund or a replacement injector. I was really hoping these injectors would give me the extra fuel I need to make more boost. At least I had to pull the manifold to repair it so it was not a waste of time.

I'll let you know those are a pain to tune but plenty doable. Requires an entire rework of the density and injection pressure tables. The XDI's are pretty much plug in and do some minor density clean up and go injectors. Might want to get some of those in the 60's and let her rip ;)

Bad injector! Swapped #5 to #1 and #1 is showing as misfire. Put my old ones back in and she purrs like a kitten. Unfortunately, a wire broke inside of my snow meth boost sensor connector so I repaired it but ordering a new one just in case. Hoping I can get a refund on these injectors. Not taking it apart for the 5th time so they are gonna have to suck it up and give me a refund. If they only send me a new injector then I guess I'll install them later but would rather not.

I got everyting back together after two transmission rebuilts (Bad TCM). She seems to be running fine as I am tying to get it fine tuned and steetable before taking it to a reputable shop for tune (transmission waranty purposes).

Just today, I have been getting a P2635 code (Fuel pump flow insufficient). All settings are good with the new 30%+ injectors but look at the screen snip and tell me why the fuel pressure is modulating high and low so bad during normal driving. It's a new Armageddon 465 in tank pump and a new sensor I installed before the tansmission went out so I really don't think that is the issue. Could it possibly be a fuel modulator as that has not been swapped yet? Any ideas as I don't want to pull the tank again to replace the sensor or a pump.

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Originally Posted by lynmup

I got everyting back together after two transmission rebuilts (Bad TCM). She seems to be running fine as I am tying to get it fine tuned and steetable before taking it to a reputable shop for tune (transmission waranty purposes).

Just today, I have been getting a P2635 code (Fuel pump flow insufficient). All settings are good with the new 30%+ injectors but look at the screen snip and tell me why the fuel pressure is modulating high and low so bad during normal driving. It's a new Armageddon 465 in tank pump and a new sensor I installed before the tansmission went out so I really don't think that is the issue. Could it possibly be a fuel modulator as that has not been swapped yet? Any ideas as I don't want to pull the tank again to replace the sensor or a pump.

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If you have an Aftermarket or Auxiliary low side fuel pump, you should disable that code. It's just a nuisance code once you're running more than the stock low side.

Thanks for your reply but disabling will not make my fuel pressure more consistent. What is causing it to fluctuation from 27 to 74 psi?

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Originally Posted by lynmup

Thanks for your reply but disabling will not make my fuel pressure more consistent. What is causing it to fluctuation from 27 to 74 psi?

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As long as you're not seeing the VCM Scanner "bug" where some cars report low side pressure inconsistently, then you need to adjust the tune for the aftermarket/Aux low side to keep the low side pressure more stable.

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Originally Posted by lynmup

Thanks for your reply but disabling will not make my fuel pressure more consistent. What is causing it to fluctuation from 27 to 74 psi?

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I'll back up what he's saying.. Sometimes that code pops up with a boost a pump too.. It doesn't make too much sense cause mods to cause it to flow more cause this "low flow" code.

The FP swings might be a bug in how HPtuners scans. It's a known issue.

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Originally Posted by TriPinTaZ

As long as you're not seeing the VCM Scanner "bug" where some cars report low side pressure inconsistently, then you need to adjust the tune for the aftermarket/Aux low side to keep the low side pressure more stable.

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Originally Posted by Alvin

I'll back up what he's saying.. Sometimes that code pops up with a boost a pump too.. It doesn't make too much sense cause mods to cause it to flow more cause this "low flow" code.

The FP swings might be a bug in how HPtuners scans. It's a known issue.

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Thank you both. This code is not effecting the performance, just comes on each time I stab the throttle. How do I adjust this to make the pressure more consistent or should I just wait until the tuner gets to in on June 10th? The less he has to change the more I save!

I ordered the Lingenfelter check valve to help control teh fuel pressure and turned off the error code. I'll update when installed and tested so others may find a fix for this issue.

I did order the updated LT4 fuel lines and it made a difference on my data log. Pictures to show comparison to stock lines. Files are named after the part number for each line.

Added the LPE check valve today and it really steadies the fuel pressure. Now when WOT, it stays fairly steady and consistend keeping the Fuel line nicely supplied.

So the bouncing pressure isn't a glitch exactly per say. Its a flow problem. Think I said that a while back on a couple, but good to know it could be either and has been confirmed by someone else.

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Originally Posted by GHuggins

So the bouncing pressure isn't a glitch exactly per say. Its a flow problem. Think I said that a while back on a couple, but good to know it could be either and has been confirmed by someone else.

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You had mentioned a check valve and I did buy one but it was an off brand and the fitment was crap, finally decided to do away with it but after realizing that the line I had with the flex hose had a check valve, all I was doing was restricting my flow even more.

This combo works and I belive the below graphs show the difference. Swapping the fuel lines increased fuel flow, the check valve is what smoothed the fluctuation. Highly recommend to anyone that is having this common fueling issue.

Before fuel line and check valve and after log. Both showing a 1 minute time interval for comparison

So the bad fluctuation is basically the valve bouncing and pressure dropping and spiking over and over again to try and keep up with the loss post valve to hpfp demand. Cool... I know all of my customers running the LPE valve have good constant pressures in the logs. I've even got a couple of customers running 2 supply lines combined with the DSX aux passing through a dual ethanol flow sensor (didn't know they made such a thing until they showed me pics) then T-ing down to the single going to hpfp. They don't have any supply issues even with the regular lt4 hpfp running +30 to +60 injectors. I know at a point the hpfp has to choke it off, but these cars are still making bad ass power with the stock hpfps at the moment. One is going the new port route when Dave gets it out, but that's to come :)

I'm actually surprised your engine is holding together. It is stock internals isn't it? I know those turbo's have to move some air and make some cylinder pressure on a smaller piston 5.3l. Impressive...

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Originally Posted by GHuggins

...I'm actually surprised your engine is holding together. It is stock internals isn't it? I know those turbo's have to move some air and make some cylinder pressure on a smaller piston 5.3l. Impressive...

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It is a forged LME block... it can handle what I throw at it. Fuel is my only limitation...lol.

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Originally Posted by lynmup

It is a forged LME block... it can handle what I throw at it. Fuel is my only limitation...lol.

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Ok, that makes more sense

I updated my first post to warn others to not disable Torque Management but rather use the General table to modify the Torque factor and Torque Adder.

Taking her to a dyno on Monday, 6/10/24...I'll update the results!

***Upate***

Looks like it is making 17psi on full E85 before hitting the fuel limit on the dyno. He was able to correct that weird spike I was getting as well so now it's has more consistent boost/fuel when you downshift under WOT.

When I get it home, I'm going to go up to a #18 meth nozzle so should get another psi due to the extra fueling of the meth.

While logging for Circle D trans warranty, he didn't think to put it on wastegate and it snapped the U joint when it shifted to 2nd during WOT shift. New driveshaft on the way tomorrow. Luckily, no carnage. Hindsight, it did have 175,000 miles on it.

On his Mustang dyno, it hit 810 wheel hp when it started to run out of fuel. That's the 1,000 wheel hp I was hoping for. Was told more lowside fuel and it's capable of 1,000 to the wheels. I bought a Walbro 535 to put in my spare tank assembly to see it it does any better than my Armageddon with the 465 Walbro pump.

It seems all the studying I did paid off as he said he didn't even need to adjust anything on the trans. He also complemented my tunning knowledge. For a beginner, he said everything was actually pretty good, just minor adjustments to fine tune things. You guys have helped me a lot and it has paid off! Thanks to everyone for the knowledge they provided.