I think that BYT is outta town for a few days. Term may check in though.
Email it if you want me to look at it.
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I think that BYT is outta town for a few days. Term may check in though.
Email it if you want me to look at it.
Got it. :)
This is an absolutely awesome thread. Just thought I'd get that out there.
I've been tuning for quite some time, mainly J-bodies and F-bodies. I must say I've not seen anything like the lnf tuning. I'm really glad someone has taken the time to break down the basics to tuning these things. Thank you.
I do have one question. I am looking at tuning my own 09 Balt SS. Question is if I tune it and if warranty work has to be done and I reflash back to stock will the GM tech have any way of detecting that there was a tune?
From your other posts, I believe you found your answer? Write entire is your friend for that. Write Calibration for tuning.
You would be correct sir. Yeah I just got really anxious to get an answer did a quick search and didn't turn up but the one thread, but after another member linked me to byt's post about it I feel as though I should be fine in the event something goes wrong. Waiting on the 1000 mile mark before doing anything though.
You should give the motor a lil more break in IMHO.
Im going to update this guide a lil bit too tomorrow or the next day.
Took a couple thousand miles for the oil leaks to appear on my car. I left it bone stock as a rock for 4-5 months to shake it out.
Not that you don't know what you're talking about. You absolutely do, but with the motor that's in my J right now I gave it all 25psi from the Precision 6262sp that's parked on the back at about that mileage point and that motor seems fine. Correct my logic if you would. A motor that is making nearly twice the power at the crank had about a thousand mile break in and is running plenty good, why would the LNF be different?
This is a curiosity thing more than anything else. Not saying that I won't heed you're advice just wondering if you have some insight, which you obviously do, that I might be missing.
Updated the 1st post a lil :)
Interesting...I wonder how much power can be had from altering those tables on a larger turbo setup...
Very nice Dyno results :) I couldn't tell the deference in the first post.
And adjusted the COT info a lil.
Noticed the exact same thing you mentioned in the original post about the cam angles. Tried having just a lil in there and the car seemed to bog a bit at the top end.
Mine seems like it bogs a little bit also at around 5K+ Rpm's need more top end power somewhere.
It will pull very hard from 3500-4000 to a little over 5K and then slows down :( and that in a 3rd gear pull. Which i did get a 6.4 second run this morning
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...50/HHR/646.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...0/HHR/6461.jpg
Just curious.... I had done all the tuning as explained here with great results... everything worked exactly as it was explained, with results better than i expected...
Well then i got to the pill mod.... pulled the line, inserted a .30 mig tip.. put it back on... and went for a drive...
now all my fuel trims are out of whack again... now they are all over the board... sometimes they are high, sometimes low... and man alive... the car rides like a bull with a limp at cruise.... i tried cruise control at 40 mph and the car next to me thought i was thrashing to some heavy metal the way the car was whipping me around....
I know that we are supposed to turn the max torque tables down to make the car more drivable and less jerky at cruise... and it was great before the pill... but now... i am going to have to start wearing a neck brace... that or drop my DALS by 30 in 10-40 tps% and set max torque to 10% in gears 1-4....
is this normal? or did i screw something up somewhere?
(granted... i just put the pill in and took one drive for logging... still have to makes changes to MAF tables and all... maybe that will help some... but yeah... im going to need a neck brace for my next logging run)
oh yeah..... and if any of you are using screw type hose clamps on your charge pipes.... upgrade to t-bolts before you do the pill mod.... i hit 30 psi once and POP! pulled itself right out from under the hose clamp... lucky for me... i have a box of t-bolts waiting to be put on.)
I think byt even took out his pill, said his tune wwas faster than the ppill with the tune. I didn't like the pilll, I don't have the cash to be fixing a 30psi spike at such a low rpm with everything else stock. I would like to keep my car intact lol.
The pill was nice but I can't imagine the car will last a long time pushing that small of a turbo that hard. Tends to make a lot of heat. I hope you have a catless downpipe on the car running the pill mod ;)
There is a thread called: taking your pill mod to the next level.
Read that, it will help you setup the Spark tables better as well as the PE and DALs. Then you will want to adjust the MAF trims again for the pill mod.
Hey just a little update to this thread.
I mentioned false knock being pretty crazy on this car, well I've been logging a tank of straight 100 octane gas and guess what, it's still showing about the same amount of KR as when I was running 91 octane in it. Has anyone got a handle on what to do about it? Most of it is only showing 3 degrees retard, and I'm not sure it's actually pulling timing. I have heard knock on this engine, but it was in some of my early tunes and I haven't heard any audible knock in weeks. I'm not sure I like the idea of just ignoring it, that goes against how I've tuned other motors/ ECM's. I'd really like to adjust these knock sensors, is there any chance of getting those tables added into the beta? (It would be awesome to be able to have more control over timing too, like decel or dfco timing, hint hint Bill :)
I'm thinking about pulling the sensors and putting teflon tape around the threads but I'm not thrilled about that kind of solution.
I used to get a lot of that lil knock that seemed random. Getting the maf trims dialed in as close to perfect as possible has taken all of that away for me tho. I would work on the maf trims ;)
Same story here. Had some knock in the 3-4k area. Nothing uptop and knew I was still working the maf trims and had read that getting those dialed in could reduce knock, so I just continued on, pulled a degree or 2 of timing in the "trouble" areas and continued with the maf tuning. Seems to be gone now.
Getting the maf dialed in as close to perfect as possible allows you to run quite a bit more timing :)
Quick question, what are you all getting for fuel mileage just cruising? I am only seeing like 24-26mpg at 70mph, this is using the 'instant mpg' in the DIC. My LTFT's are -.8, and my STFT's are usually under 5. I know I could get the STFT's a bit better, but not by much.
That sounds about right for 70 on a flat road, maybe a pinch more. I'll look at the instantaneous MPG on Monday if I remember. I run a cruise lambda of .97 though catless, (closer to stoich for ~5.5 to 10% ethanol) so mine's prob a bit worse.
My avg dropped to 28.5 for the winter, used to be over 30 last summer. Winter blend & cold weather always drops it a few.
Yeah, I know the winter blend drops it, just seems like I should be getting about 28. Guess I should wait to let the weather stabilize before I really get worried about it.
Thanks!
same here at around 70mph, it shows about 26-28... and at 60 i see 32+ :)
I just drove form Des Moines, IA -> Topeka, KS (270mi) and avg'd 27.6mpg according to the DIC. I reset he avg as I left my driveway. That was even with me romping on it a few times for good measure :)
My best avg was 29 flat, and honestly I think I had the wind at my back.
Wondering if anyone could help me (and maybe some others) in understanding the Timing tables here a little more... Most cars i have worked with before only had one timing table... and that made sense.... Here due to VVT we get 4 tables to juggle... So far i have just been making the same changes across the board to all 4 tables... But i realized that there seem to be some trends in cam timing that might allow us to better tune our timing for different situations....
Like for one, i noticed that in MOST of my logs, Part throttle acceleration seems to have both cams near maximum... heavy acceleration at WOT seem to have both cams about smack in the middle or sometimes a little nearer to minimum higher in the rpm range... with your foot off the gas, just coasting along boths cams drop to minumum..
These are just my observations... but if we knew a little more about when the cams do what and why... it would help us to better control our timing and use of the 4 tables to our advantage instead of just an annoying extra 3 steps we dont need.
Would be nice to know that we can dial in the max-max table for mild acceleration on the streets (like 10-30% throttle) and the min-min table could be nudged for a little better milage when coasting... and maybe the other 2 set ranges for other driving situations....
I for one think it would be nice to know when and why the VVT is doing what and why... that is just the way i am....
At the first it tells to go to Max Airload Torque Table. Nowhere in hptuners can i find this, or is it called something different. The car is 2010 Saturn Sky 2.2 turbo
If it's a 2010 2.0L Sky Redline it should be under the same tabs as my 2007 2.0L Solstice GXP. Look under the Torque Management tab in the upper right and it should be under the General tab and labeled Max Airload Torque Table.
Majority of these tables can only be found with beta software, you have to contact support to get it.
Hey guys, would a MAP sensor leaking cause erratic AFRs?
Here's a screen shot.
Also make sure you have your view settings on ADVANCED