No, it's typical. I had to do a fair amount of fine-tuning after the dyno. If you want everything done for you find someone with an eddy current dyno and expect to pay a lot more for the time. Your tune is close. A few corners were cut. The PE fueling could've been tuned better. You can leave it, or you can learn the ropes and make it great.
11.5 AFR - Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle (WOT)
12.2 AFR - Safe Best Power at Wide Open Throttle (WOT)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY78uPXvvY0
Get a wideband and start tuning.
https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...ntroller-gauge
Learn about lambda.
https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-...afr-vs-lambda/
Find the sweet spot. I run e30 (my dyno was 91 octane), and when I adjusted lambda from .8 to .72 I was able to break the tires loose in 3rd doing a roll. It was wild. In fact, the ability to tune for e30 has saved enough money compared to premium to pay for my MPVI and the credits.
Watch the ring land on cylinder 7. Being the back cylinder it runs leaner due to the pressure gradient inside the manifold filling it with more air. Look at the top of an ls1 manifold you'll see what I mean. Go a tad richer to account for this. Not such a problem with the sheet metal intakes ;)
The priority right now should be running 91+ octane (the manufacturer's build sheet lists 91+ as a requirement. This should make your concern about hi and lo spark a non-issue. Make them the same since you're always going to be running premium) and setting the knock sensors back to settings like your previous tune. Monitor for KR. After that you can leave the tune alone if you don't want to stress about it. Yeah you can squeeze out more power, but it's time consuming.