Pan installed, oil cooler lines installed. Gonna go try to measure the lifter bores next.
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Pan installed, oil cooler lines installed. Gonna go try to measure the lifter bores next.
Ok, getting ready to install the heads and they need a cleaning from sitting in the shed for about a year....I plan to use mineral spirits and am seeing if anyone knows if the hood/umbrella style 454 valve seals are impervious to this or not? I am thinking that since oil is a petroleum product, gas is a petroleum product and mineral spirits are a petroleum product that I will be ok, but any input is appreciated. I have seen stuff grow double its size, dissolve and even get brittle from exposure to an incompatible solvent so am double checking.
So, I decided to test first.... I soaked one in mineral spirits overnight, and I am leaving one in for 2 days.... Want to see if there is any difference. So far the overnight one just seems wet! So that's good news.
So, got the dial bore gauge set up for the lifter bores. I will get out there tomorrow, if not tonight.
Attachment 154564
Obviously I don't know the history of the heads, but a competent person, with the correct tools and parts on hand, can changes out the stem seals in less than a half hour. If they are at all questionable, it's much easier to change them out now than after the first test drive. Soaking them in mineral spirits for an extended time will not do them any favors.
Heads were done at the machine shop for the original build. They have less than 500 miles on them. They have been sitting around my shed for about a year and I am planning to clean them with mineral spirits in a parts washer before reinstalling them. I just didn't want to damage the valve seals by using an incompatible solvent inadvertently. I am soaking other seals that came with an engine gasket kit just to make sure incidental contact won't cause adverse response. So far so good. At most they will get a quick rinse or two and then be dried using a fan.
These are the measurements I got when I set the caliper to 0.842" and set the dial bore gauge up for that exactly:
FRONT 0.0010" 0.0011" 0.0010" 0.0010" 0.0011" 0.0011" 0.0010" 0.0010" REAR
FRONT 0.0010" 0.0011" 0.0014" 0.0010" 0.0010" 0.0014" 0.0011" 0.0010" REAR
Awesome that'll do nicely.
Deck clearance #s coming next. Then, if they are as expected, come the heads.I got the dial indicator to determine TDC, then a straight edge and feeler gauges to get some close numbers. Then I'll see if I can figure a way to use the dial indicator to get true reading. Feeler gauges will cover the precision level I need here though If I can't figure the dial gauge. I think it is expected to be like 0.014" or something like that if I remember...
Also, the valve stem seals seem unaffected by the mineral spirits so I am gonna clean up the heads in the parts cleaner before installing them,,,, again.
Ok, so my parts cleaner is no where near big enough to clean up these things.. So, of course I had to make one that can handle them... Tomorrow it isn't supposed to snow or rain like it did today, so again targeting tomorrow.
Confirmed, 0.014" clearance from top of piston to top of deck. Used my dial indicator to find TDC and then put my straight edge across the cylinder and checked with feeler gauges. 0.014" fit under, the 0.015" did not. With the 0.030" head gasket that should yield 0.044" quench, which is right on the high side of acceptable! So starting the head cleaning and reassembly now!
Attachment 154664
Custom 5 Gallon large format parts washer
Attachment 154665
Nice clean block
Attachment 154666
Driver's side head cleaned up and in place (not torqued down yet)
Basically, PROGRESS!!!
Apparently I lost 3 of the smaller head bolts. Ordered a new set which will be here tomorrow. Taking the day off because the weather should be nice before it shuts the place down for a week with cold, rain and overall miserable stuff. Hope to get this thing ready to drop in tomorrow. I will try to do the drill oil pump lifter flow inspection as well. The lifters I got are some GM performance ones that have increased oil flow to the valve rockers. I do know what it looked like before when it was running and there wasn't much at the top at all. Hoping with the tighter clearances allowing better flow and the increased oiling, that the rockers will stay cooler AND QUIETER. This go round seems smoother as well... I guess because it is familiar, but it does seem a bit cleaner, a bit more precise, I dunno.... Just feels better! Fingers crossed.
Did you decide on using the stamped set or rollers?
Comp Cams Magnum Roller tipped that still fit under the stock valve covers for the Vortec L29 is what I have and was planning to use. Pretty sure the excessive oil clearances was the source of all my ills last go round. Plus, I do like the sewing machine sound that I've heard on some. Not like the lifter noise mine had... It's more of a 'purring' noise than a 'noisy' noise, if that makes any sense?
Ok, heads back on, lifters in, lifter keeper installed, windage tray in, pushrods in , rockers installed, valves adjusted. Ran a little DeWalt 12V battery powered hand drill and got oil at all of the rockers, the front actually oiled up first, then the rest fell in line. This has the oil cooler in the radiator, so I had to put a hose between the out and in lines to the oil cooler. Full of oil, but I may drain that and fill again before I install it, just because... Definitely replacing the filter before I install it too. Next, take off the stand, install the rear main, the rear cam plug and flywheel, then it goes back in!
Hold on. Do the drill test while monitoring oil pressure. With the pump spinning, roll the engine over by hand at least 2x.
You did the rockers pretty quick this time. Checked the wipe pattern and everything?
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post743333
So I was doing last minute visual inspection and I saw something concerning in one of the intake valves. It appeared that there was a piece of aluminum or some other kind of metal flake, chip or piece and like there was also some kind of dent or other issue with the intake valve on cylinder #5. WTF??? SO I pulled the head, took the valve spring off and prepared to have to have a new seat or something done. Turns out it was a small piece of foil stuck to the valve sealing face, but it wasn't enough to affect the actual sealing. I had already done a leak check and they all sealed. Just another head gasket, and time, but still on track. Once I get the head back on, I will check the wipe of the rollers over the valve tips to make sure. Checking for a cheap oil pressure gauge but it seemed good and oil got all the way to the top and the front most roller rockers and was flowing out the tip of the pushrod and down the roller rocker.
What am I looking for? any fluctuation or drop?
Oil will flow up to the lifters like you saw with as little as a couple PSI of pressure. When you put the gauge on it, your looking for PSI that would mimic the expected cold oil idle rpm PSI. Spin the drill motor at 3 to 4 hundred rpm and you should see the same psi you would expect at idle rpm.
A warning sign would be if you cant get it above 15 or 20 psi or it pegs a 100 psi gauge.
well, with the last go round, there was hardly any oil present at the lifter rockers even running, so to me this so far seems promising.
Spin the motor over. Bet it comes up.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpartsnrust
Looking for constant pressure.
Amazing how life gets in the way of plans.... Had to fix a leaking axle seal on the kid's car on the last warmish day this stretch, then work. Hoping to get back to it this weekend and get her ready to drop in. Have to re-install the one head, verify the rocker wipes, adjust valves again, install intake, install injectors, install valve cover, hang from hoist for rear main, cam plug and flex plate install, then ready to go! So close I can smell it! Oh, wait, that's the oil that flew out where the oil sender went before I realized it was spewing....
rotated the engine 4 times:
Attachment 155201Attachment 155202Attachment 155203Attachment 155204
Looks pretty darn good!Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpartsnrust
Thanks, I thought so too. So gonna ship it like that. Getting to the home stretch so might be back to tuning before long!
Attachment 155245
Notice every opening that isn't facing down has a cap/cover/etc. on it due to my newfound sensitivity to dropping foreign objects inside the motor! (Except the valve cover vents, which I am going to go cap/plug right now!)
It's been a while, hoping to see good things soon!!Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpartsnrust
Motor is sitting in the engine compartment... Messed with it basically all day. Couldn't get the engine and trans to mate 100% yet. I am going to replace the motor mounts and hopefully get it seated then. Getting closer!
I did the drill/pump test. Had 40-41PSI with the drill, not sure of the RPMs, but the pressure didn't change while rotating the crank two full turns. That is promising.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpartsnrust
Bolted together, now starting the bits and pieces.... re invigorated now that it bolted together!
Motor mounts, bellhousing stud brackets/wire management (don't laugh, these are numerous and tedious!), fuel lines, exhaust flange gaskets installed... Got the wrong oil sender, but the right one will be here tomorrow... progress!
Got rained out... Expect to get the results tomorrow! Then I am going to have to relearn the whole tuning/laptop, upload process again it has been so long! Still have the radiator and fan/belts, but that's it. Should be running (if it will run!) tomorrow.
I see oil pressure.
FINALLY got it together and it started.... I used 5W-30 and it had about 70+ PSI of oil pressure. The CEL came on immediately, and I suspect it is the Cam/Crank out of sync code.... Pretty sure I got the distributor right as I seem to recall it popped and sputtered when I was a tooth off last time. I got shut down tonight due to it being like 40 degrees, pitch dark and like 45MPH wind gusts. I threw in the towel for today. I don't remember which tune was in this bad boy when it got taken down again. Unfortunately I only had like 5 gallons of antifreeze and it takes 6or 7 gallons with the rear heater and 4 core radiator/towing package and all. I will try to get the distributor adjusted to get rid of the code and then top off the antifreeze shortly. Sirius, are you still out there? do you know which tune I should put in there for a 'restart' of the tuning process? I will refresh myself with the HPTuners software and process and I think we should be back on track very very soon!
We were using 13th rev.
Did that have the knock sensors on or off? just curious, I think that was the one that felt the best... I do kinda recall a bit of idle surging after first starting for a minute or two... I will report back with the info I get from the computer. THANKS and Happy New Year all! :)
Edit: I just noticed that I am now an "Advanced Tuner"... LOL, hardly. I just thought that was funny.
Attachment 156043
Yep, knock detection is enabled.
Attachment 156078
Attachment 156079
I haven't driven it yet, but this is the first run (I ran it for like 15 seconds, then 30 seconds before, this is the first extended run) and the second run warming up.
Just put here so that maybe you can look to make sure everything looks copacetic? Nothing unusual or missing? I will top off the tires, let it cool again, top off the antifreeze and then head out for some gas as there is about a half tank of 2 yr old gas in it right now....
Edit: One of those stupid donuts on the exhaust flange is leaking, so I gotta fix that before I go get gas. Don't need exhaust gases melting anything down under there AGAIN! :)
No. You need to check fuel pressure. Nothing changed in the build, right? If you did lmk. It's calling for a lot of fuel in both banks. B1 is adding more, but that's probably from that exhaust gasket. It could also be that the MAF sensor is clocked differently.
Let's send it over to SD and compare to the VE that we did before. That'll be a quick way to check all those possibilities.
Luckily, I have a fuel pressure gauge and there is a schrader valve port right at the front of the intake manifold. I am hoping to crawl back under tomorrow if I can get my azz out of bed early enough and fix that donut. The 'good' news I saw was that the oil pressure stayed at about 50-55 even when it warmed up a bit, but like I said, I didn't drive it yet besides turning around in the driveway and stuff. The only difference I can think of that is slightly different is the 0.014" higher deck. SO, maybe a slight increase in cylinder volume and a slight decrease in compression? 2 Year old gas?
OMG... can't catch a break. Not too bad this time though. I used the MLS gaskets on the exhaust manifolds and the Driver's side is leaking. I thought it was the EGR tube, so I pulled that all apart and resealed it... No good, then today pulled the donut off the flange and inspected / reseated it, no good.... Had to enlist my oldest daughter to help create the noise while I stuck my head under the hood and, sure enough, the front of the exhaust manifold is leaking... SO, after we dig out of the snow tomorrow, I will try to give that a go with the individual cylinder gaskets that came with the rebuild kit. Always something! At least I don't think I have that valve tap any longer. I do hear the rockers, but not scary noise, more like a sewing machine noise. SO I think they are good. If I get ambitious I may pop the valve cover to inspect the oil getting to the top of the engine JUST BECAUSE.
Also, is it possible the mixture is off a bit because of the rings not yet being seated/sealed? Just spitballing.
Nah. If you had that much blowby there would be trouble. Pop the oil cap while idling and check that way.
Ok, drug myself outside during the Flyers' intermissions and got the leak fixed FINALLY. However, it appears I had put on the exhaust gasket backwards somehow (even though it was on the engine stand!!! WTH?). I can't really tell if the other side is oriented properly, but it isn't leaking. I will get a better view on it tomorrow. We are expecting a bunch of snow, so might not be able to get too much of a test drive in till Tues or Wed, but Stay Tuned! :)