Cannot get rid of TMA occurring when going from cruising to WOT

On 93 octane, I can go all the way to the limit of the ARP head bolts...why oh why didn't I use head studs??? The tuner didn't adjust my boost controller settings and it was making 19-ish on 93 octane and when he opened the cutout, it made 22-ish which was 780-ish RWHP so per his math, thats 975 flywheel. If I recall from an episode of Engine power on Spike TV, 25psi is the limit for head bolts. For that reason I will keep it at 20 psi to allow the addditional boost from the cutout.

I am hoping that the fuel upgrade will be enough to reach 20 psi while using E85 but we'll see. If I get more power with additional bost, then Perhaps I could go up to a #20 meth nozzle and use a bit less fuel. I would like to have it set to 20 psi and open the cutout for an addtional 3 psi for that extra kick. I typically run E85 but if I am out of town and no other fuel is avaiable, I'll use 93 octane.

Truck is still at the dyno, they went to install the newdriveshaft and discovered that the yoke was bent. While waiting, I decided to install the Walbro 535 pump in my stock housing. When I get my yukon back, I'll remove the Armageddon pump and see how they got the 465 pump installed in the stock fuel bucket and compare to my set up but this is what I had to do.

I have the pump sock on order so it fits in the stock mount a bit more snug. You can see the Walbro is a bit skinier than the stock pump. Also decided to wire in the connector in the event I ever need to replace the pump, it will be plug and play.

Since I had to push the end of the pump out the bottom of the housing in order for the pump housing to mount in the bucket, I plan to install some mounts about 3/4" to allow the filter sock room to syphon fuel. I know the 535 isn't much more than the 465 but hoping this gives enough fuel for a few more psi.

There is always the dual/tripple pump that Snow Performance offers but this was less than $250 including all the hardware for mounting the pump and it fits like stock. Not really wanting ot revanp the entire fuel system but just may have to if I want to get more boost. First, I'll see how this does. At least they are offering a free fuel line kit ($630 value) until 7/1/24. Would make the install much easier and I could run it all the way to the LPE check valve.

Ummm, don't ever run it less than 1/3 tank and you might be ok... That pickup was designed the way it was for a reason including the built in check valve ;) You could technically get really fancy and design your own bucket with multiple check valves then you wouldn't have that particular problem.... Just chop up the original, put in a spacer piece, some extra valves. Been there, done that. Supported 1300 hp... Or you can buy the already built and made one which you said is pricey, but pricey is cheaper than a motor ;)

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Originally Posted by GHuggins

Ummm, don't ever run it less than 1/3 tank and you might be ok...

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I have learned that I canot go less than 1/4 currently as it sloshes the fuel to the back of the tank and will starve the engine. First time it did it I thought the pressure sensor was bad. This is just a test and tune since I had the spare pump assembly. I will more than likely get the bigger pump but first, I want to know if this will work. I hate not knowing.

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Originally Posted by GHuggins

...Or you can buy the already built and made one which you said is pricey, but pricey is cheaper than a motor

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If it kills the motor, then I can go to a forged 416...I'm an opportunist!

Even the new Snow Performance double/tripple pumps do not have the stock bucket. They are sitting at the bottom of the tank such as the one I modified. Too bad I can't find a rear sump fuel cell that grabs every last drop of fuel.

While out tuning I was getting a P0113 IAT sensor error and swapping the MAF did not fix it. Put the truck in SD and it ran fine so it seems the relocation of my MAF to reach the new position on the intake tube is too much. Ordered a new MAF pigtail so I can re-route it for a better placement adn less stress and exhaust heat. While running in SD, I noticed I was only getting around 6 psi. I got home and did a pressure test and the upper hoses and wastegate were fine so I pulled the manifold and the repair I previoulsy did, did not hold so I ordered a new manifold from Amazon failry cheap.

Since it wil be down until Wednesday, I did decide to pull the pump to see how they got the Walbro to fit in the stock bucket, looks like they just rivited the bucket shut. I put some stainless steel posts on mine to keep the sock at the bottom of the tank from getting crushed and had to shorted the slide pins to allow it to compress enough to tighten the lock ring. I'l find out how it goes once I get the new manifold back on. The 535 pump I installed does not have a check valve so I am hoping my LPE checkvalve will be sufficient

Wondering if I should sell the Armageddon 465 pump and the LT4 injectors or keep them as a back up?

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Originally Posted by lynmup

On 93 octane, I can go all the way to the limit of the ARP head bolts...why oh why didn't I use head studs???

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under 1000hp is not at the limit of ARP head bolts unless your way too aggressive with the timing... which is the tuners limit and not the bolts fault. Ive made 1200+ on stuff with bolts in 4500+# cars that went 8s a bunch

I never said a 1000 horsepower is the limit. I said 25 psi is the limit that I want to keep it under as I have seen videos were it didn't provide enough clapping force over that pressure. Plus I want too stay on the safe side.

I ditched the Walboro 535 as it didn't supply enough fuel vs the Armageddon. Could be due to the pump sitting in the bucket catching more fuel or the lack of checkvalve...who knows.

I did install a DSX aux fuel kit and it is amazing! I have all the low side fuel I need now. Added a 3.5" exhaust and it took me from 9.5 psi on wastegate to 12 psi so that was a major restiction. Just as that install happened I got a misfire, seems my MDS coils are not up to the task. Unfortunately they do not make individual coils for the MSD part number I bought so I ordered a set of Granatelli coils that were developed for boosted application.

Also added a BTR long runner intake manifold and its keeping the boost contained. Decided against the Stock L86 as I don't want the meth nozzle to hit the post and turn into dropplets. Everything is working great and I stepped up from a #16 meth nozzle to a #20 meth nozzle. She is running great other than the ignition coils which are about to be remedied as soon as Summit Racing gets them to me. Bought an autozone replacement just so I could drive it but new tires are going on today and now there is a leak somewhere on the front side of the engine, though it was the oil drain lines but those are tight as a banjo string. Looks like a sensor, only does it during WOT, the oil pressure is dropping when the leak is occuring so that is next on my radar. I pray I don't have to remove the timing cover but the LME billet cover is easy to do other than removing the harmonic balancer.