Can someone evaluate a remote tune for me?

I was hoping someone could skim this and see if this tune is decent or safe. Someone referred to it as a "Kill Tune" and I'm leery of driving the car now.

Basically, I broke the intermediate shaft in my stock transmission and went with a built one and torque converter. My regular tuner wasn't comfortable tuning a built auto because of the different fluid volumes and pressures with the firm shifts and really didn't want to break it. I asked in a facebook group and a remote tuner reached out to me.

We went through the first few revisions before it was running so lean that I lifted a head. It went pig rich, then dead lean. Replaced head gaskets, put in 2116LSR lifters, 3/8 pushrods, and whatever came with it while it was apart.

A few more revisions after rebuilding it, I realized that my car wasn't showing boost. Not sure why that wasn't noticed in the first log I sent to him. I had my MAP sensor plugged into the aux pump backwards. Got that fixed and he sent me another revision.

A few tweaks and the car was running alright. A few things I took notice of were:

Stock bottom end LSA spinning to 7,540 RPM (Which I'm not comfortable with despite having a Melling 10355HV pump)
ST Fuel trims dipping down to -28.1

While working through that, my brand new built transmission failed. The car wouldn't move until I revved to about 3,500-4,000 RPM.

Limped it home and drained the fluid, it was burned, brown/black and glittery. Reached out to the builder and he wanted to see the tune. He said something about torque management being off and how that's a nuke for transmissions, so I asked the tuner. He denied it being off (I attached a screenshot of transmission) but I'm not very sure since I'm being told conflicting information.

The valve body was clogged, clutches were wasted, the drum overheated. He went through it, cleaned it, replaced what got ruined and shipped it back to me for next to nothing.

I trust the builder 100 percent. I like the tuner, but I'm not sure if I can trust him to make this right.

I'm not sure I want to proceed with a "Kill Tune" in my car and am looking elsewhere for insight or guidance.

Also, it's not in my nature to shit all over anyone publicly. I don't intend on dragging people down through social media or tarnishing names. I acknowledge that mistakes happen and this could be one of those things. It's why I intentionally left names out of the post.

The car is:

2013 CTS-V
WCCH heads
BTR Stage 3 PDS cam
Custom CAI
Melling oil pump
IWIS timing chain
2116LSR Lifters
BTR Pushrods
upgraded trunion rocker arms (CHE I think)
Kong Lid
Weapon-X HX

Again, my intention is not to smear anyone. My intention is to get my car fixed and avoid social media drama.

What injectors?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

What injectors?

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ID1300

sorry

CT downshift is your rev match. No need to have that off. Having it on can cause issues like stalling when coming to a stop if the tune is off.

Power downshift might be where your issue is with the broken trans dependant on how you drive it I.e. no power downshifts.

Torque signal to the trans is more than ample. There's plenty of upshift torque management which is good.

Fuelling is a mess. What pumps and fuel set-up you running?

Stock pump with a dsx aux pump

I hope you didnt spend much on the tune. Find a new tooner.

I bet I can guess who tuned this. LOL.

IMO it needs lots of work. VE and MAF need tuning to get them STFT's in check. Especially the MAF since its in "MAF" only. From my experience its never MAF only, VVE always in play. I recommend doing a blended tune instead of just MAF. The AFR is a bit lean IMO. The tuner is commanding .83. I would command .77. E85 makes good power rich or lean so its better to just be rich. Need more data but it looks like the MAF needs some work in open loop. High octane and low timing maps match. The low octane map should have timing taken out so the knock sensor adaptives can do its thing if low octane is introduced. The high octane map should have a lot more cruise low load timing. Then use the flex fuel timing map to pull a little timing down low and advance up top. This way on gas it wont feel like a dog during cruise. A lot of tq management stuff has been disabled and it doesnt all have to be.

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Originally Posted by JayRolla

I bet I can guess who tuned this. LOL.

IMO it needs lots of work. VE and MAF need tuning to get them STFT's in check. Especially the MAF since its in "MAF" only. From my experience its never in MAF only. I recommend doing a blended tune instead of just MAF. The AFR is a bit lean IMO. The tuner is commanding .83. i would command .77. E85 makes good power rich or lean so its better to just be rich. Need more data but it looks like the MAF needs some work in open loop also. High octane and low timing maps match. The low octane map should have timing taken out so the knock sensor adaptives can do its thing if low octane is introduced. The high octane map should have a lot more cruise low load timing. Then use the flex fuel timing map to pull a little timing down low and advance up top. This way on gas it wont feel like a dog during cruise. A lot of tq management stuff has been disabled and it doesnt all have to be.

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i shot you a message

At first i thought this came from the "#1 tooner in the country/Kentucky". Definitely doesnt match up with his copy and paste stuff after looking through. Looks close to the work from a well-known guy in Missouri, not a guy ive seen on here so if your reading this i wasnt bashing you.

There is a lot of odd work in this tune. I'd wipe it out and start completely from scratch.

The IAT spark table is pretty damn unusual.

this guy is in louisiana

holly mess lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MeshaalMMT

holly mess lol.

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Whats even crazier. This guy is considered one of the top two remote tooners on facebook for LS.

Look at rpm vs vehicle speed at WOT. How many times did you let that happen? Is that one of them CVT's?

The base pressures and Oncoming pressure presets, combined with the shift times are what took your hard parts out on your transmission. After skimming through the tune, I highly recommend you go to a professional and have them start from scratch.

Can't wait to get a look-see at this once I get a few minutes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STAGEUP

The base pressures and Oncoming pressure presets, combined with the shift times are what took your hard parts out on your transmission. After skimming through the tune, I highly recommend you go to a professional and have them start from scratch.

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He was working with a "professional". Highly rated remote "tooner".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JayRolla

I bet I can guess who tuned this. LOL.

IMO it needs lots of work. VE and MAF need tuning to get them STFT's in check. Especially the MAF since its in "MAF" only. From my experience its never MAF only, VVE always in play. I recommend doing a blended tune instead of just MAF. The AFR is a bit lean IMO. The tuner is commanding .83. I would command .77. E85 makes good power rich or lean so its better to just be rich. Need more data but it looks like the MAF needs some work in open loop. High octane and low timing maps match. The low octane map should have timing taken out so the knock sensor adaptives can do its thing if low octane is introduced. The high octane map should have a lot more cruise low load timing. Then use the flex fuel timing map to pull a little timing down low and advance up top. This way on gas it wont feel like a dog during cruise. A lot of tq management stuff has been disabled and it doesnt all have to be.

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Looking like a DDtech special huh. Timing table along with him ADDING 5 deg to the ff spark table in light load areas looks familiar to me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alvin

There is a lot of odd work in this tune. I'd wipe it out and start completely from scratch.

The IAT spark table is pretty damn unusual.

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Yeah, typically what I've seen is in that 149 column you would have spark retard populated from .76 g on down to .08....not have it all zeroed until you get to .80 g

That's pretty ugly all over. Only an idiot would set the rev limiter to 7500 and the WOT shift RPM to 7000 on a stock bottom end LSA. If this guy is some kinda email tooning "pro" he should be outed.

If he's telling you that torque management isn't disabled, he's either all out lying to you, or he's an idiot. If you set all your TM to "none" or "disabled", you've effectively turned it all off. Just because you haven't zeroed the upshift torque factor doesn't mean it's not disabled.

It's a 2 bar COS but it's technically in "MAF only"? How retarded it that?

There's a lot of jacked up shit on the trans side too but I've seen worse not smoke a trans like that. Hell I've seen worse from some big name 6 speed auto trans/converter companies!

I'd like to know more about the built transmission's failure. How long, how were you driving it, etc.? That doesn't look like a couple trips to church and back.

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