ETC code causing limp mode, programming or do I need to break out the wrenches?

I'm starting a new post as I feel my last one might be loosing traction. What Ive got is a 2008 jeep wrangler that I put a small garret turbo on. Build went fine and i am currently tuning in Open Loop and correcting VE but I am starting to run into ETC (Electronic Throttle Controller) errors that is shutting down my jeep while driving down the highway. Its intermittent, sometimes I am in light boost and other times I am just cruising. I can drive 10 miles and nothing or I cant even make it out of the driveway. The dreaded "red lightning bolt" flashes on the dash and I have to cycle the key. The injectors fire back up and the light goes off and of down the highway I go. I cannot tell if its something I did or if its in the programming. There is a table called Desired Throttle Large Range that has peaked my curiosity. Anybody had experience with this? Here is were I currently sit now with my tuning:

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what code are you setting when this happens?

Ive only been able to get a code once out of the more than half a dozen times its happened, U3F00 code. I found very little information on this code. Full disclosure, it started happening after I pulled the intake off to swap the injectors. Everything went smooth with no hiccups and all the wiring looked good. I am afraid its a wiring issue but I am curious if anybody else has had this problem after going forced induction and if so how did they resolve it. I want to make sure its not a table in the programming that I am missing. There are table referencing airflow and throttle body voltage. Thoughts?

hmm interesting, do you have a second scanner to read codes with? Kind of sounds like there is a code set and the scanner just isn't displaying the correct code or maybe a dealer specific code. I don't have much experience with forced induction so hopefully someone else has been having this issue and has resolved it

No, unfortunately I don't have another scanner. The ETC reader in hptuners is not working either. The funny thing is it does not shoot a check engine light just the ETC light and traction control light and shuts down. I pulled the wiring harness out of the jeep and made sure there was nothing wrong with the wiring. It seemed fine so I put it back in and used some dielectric grease on most of sensor connections and the throttle body. I am at a loss right now and ready to put the jeep to pasture.

any "U" code is a communication problem, so I would guess it may be a wiring issue. Double check all your grounds and wires for any splits/cracks.

While the car is running try moving around the harnesses, see if itll trip the lightning bolt, should happen driving and parked if it is wiring related.

Its very possible that you are having an issue with the airflow differential the ECU is seeing. You made need to adjust the Phi Adapt diagnostic parameters or make adjustments to your main TB airflow table in the mid-range areas. I've had a couple of turbo/supercharged cars do this during part throttle cruising.

I think if it was an airflow issue he would be popping some P codes, but its possible.

I went as far as taking the wiring harness out yesterday and verifying that it's ok. I pulled off all he wire loom and looked over every inch of wire. Extreme I know but I was lost and frustrated. I will shake the connectors tonight.

I will take a look at the Phi Adapt table tonight. I made some adjustments to torque tables this morning and it still threw the code AND and started idling out of control if I blipped the throttle at idle. there must be something I'm missing. Man, I miss cable driven throttle bodies!

Thanks again guys for your responses and help!

Also sut, it shouldn't effect cruising speeds, but you should change your pressure ratio limits in the Airflow>General tab both the Pratio Max and Pratio Turbo Max to 2.00 from 1.00.

Sounds good srt8, I will get that changed. Im headed out this afternoon to work on the jeep so I will keep you guys updated on the progress. Thanks again guys for all your help!

Well fellas, the jeep is putting up a hell of a good fight. I maxed and minimized the Phi adapt tables and adjusted the Pratio tables and still no luck. About 10 miles into my drive the etc error kicked in and shut the jeep down. I popped it in nuetral and cycled the key and it went about another 10 miles and did it again. I ran over all the wires and wiggled them around and no signs of a wiring failure. Sooooo, I guess my next step will be to start throwing parts at it after I pull the charge pipe off it and attempt to get the etc code again. If it trips without boost then it has to be a mechanical issues. If not than it probably a tuning issue. I know Jaime said raise the phi tables OR the throttle body flow table but I think I will do both just to see what happens. At this point I'm taking stabs in the dark anyways. You guys have been awesome and I can't thank you enough for all your help. Any and all thoughts and ideas a greatly appreciatted!

I cant comment on the programming side of the equation, but speaking from experience with chrysler products, source a second throttle body and install, you shouldn't need to re-calibrate the throttle just install and go, it sounds like to me that the plastic gear is probably toast inside the body, ive replaced MANNNYYYY throttles on Caliber SRTs for the red lightning bolt light....lots of times even on my personal car it never set any DTCs just the lightning bolt. The random U code you got might be irrelevant/intermittent.

Try it and update us?

Also check your wiring under the dashboard inside the car, in and around the accelerator pedal.

Gentleman, i will definitely give both of those a try. Just so you know this is my second throttle body since the turbo setup. When I purchased the jeep the individual I bought it from had some spare parts and an extra throttle body was in the parts box so I tossed it on. I pulled the throttle body apart that I replaced to see if I could pinpoint a problem and it looked fine inside. However, I did order a new pedal and wiring harness and will order a new throttle body tonight. Lucky new parts are fairly inexpensive so having them around for spares might not be a bad idea anyways. This afternoon I was finally able to get a few minutes on the jeep. I pulled the charge pipe off and put about 20 miles on and the ETC light did NOT trip! I am going to go back out and try it one more time but that tells me it almost has to be in the tuning UNLESS part throttle boost is pushing the throttle blades around and causing errors. I do see 4 lbs at 25 percent throttle and if the electric motor in the throttle body sucks that bad than maybe its possible? I need to log pedal position to throttle position and see if that can be the case. If not than maybe throttle airflow tables? How mush should I adjust it by, 5% in the mid range? Thanks again guys!

Nearly impossible to push a throttle body closed, basic physics says the pressure on any part of the blade top or bottom is identical, therefore the only acting factor to open or close the blade is the spring/PCM, which would take very little effort.

Good news fellas, I think I figured it out! I did some digging around on some random dodge websites and found a gentleman that was having similar issues as mine and learned that he switched off the Baro Learn function and enabled the Sensed MAP function and his car started functioning correctly. I did the same and the jeep came alive. It immediatly ran great and no more ETC codes!! I've been working the VE tables and LTFTs are within 8% which is a great start! I've put about an hour of drive time and still no ETC light so hopefully I am in the clear! It's good to have the old jeep back and the turbo feels great. Exactly what the jeep needed.

I want to personally thank all of you for your help and recommendations. It was a huge help. I could not have made this system work without this forum so again, Thank You!!!!

Good news, indeed!

Makes a guy wonder... I'm more familiar with tuning SRT-4s, and I know for fact that they have the Baro Learn function enabled. But I also know that they use the TIP (Throttle Inlet Pressure) sensor in combination with a 3-way solenoid valve to sample air pressure (3-way valve allows sampling of both pressure at the Throttle Body, as well as atmospheric pressure, depending on which direction of flow the valve is in at any given moment).

If the Jeep doesn't have a TIP sensor, or if it does but only samples air pressure pre-Throttle Body (in a charge pipe) and has no reference to atmospheric pressure, that could explain why there are issues with having it enabled.