Been gone a couple of years. Figured I?d see if anything new has been established.
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Been gone a couple of years. Figured I?d see if anything new has been established.
just dropping by to say hi.
good to see you still tuning
Just self tuning. No more tuning others. Good to hear from you. Noticed you never left this place still haha.
im not tuning anyone else anymore. im doing at home fabrication and have been slowly fading away in here. I still read but i just dont have the time to help out and i sure dont have t resources to stay up to date anymore.
I am usually a GM LS/LT guy but had one of these come into the shop today. Vehicle already had the GMPP kit with the Bosch TMAP sensors, RPM Motorsports air intake & NGK LTR6IX-11 gapped to .028". Are these gains typical on a LNF combo? I am making 16 rwhp over the stock GM calibration and 98 lb. ft more torque (WOW). I am getting a bit of knock retard on the dyno pulls in 4th gear however the graph is smooth so I not sure if it is real because I see people talking about putting timing into these engines while upping the boost. Will break out my knock ears and have a listen. I don't see any tables for knock sensor mV so I am guess people just up the stock table to increase timing even after the knock sensors pull some out?
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yep thats about right. the kappa platform doesnt make hp like the fwd guys do. all that drivetrain loss usually keeps the kappa around 300 hp when i get between 315 and 330 from the fwd setup.
the kappa platform has a floating flywheel assembly in some of the applications. it can be noisy and cause kr as well. there are ways to get rid of false knock but it takes so long i dont think i have seen a tune that solves it properly since like 2013. i disabled the knock sensor by settings its max pull value to 0* and used knock ears to set the ignition map. Use em if you got em.
between 10 and 14 usually. that load really does a number on max ignition compared to fwd.
your knock ears will and dyno will help you find that sweet spot.
tune looks fine adjustment wise.
Something needs fixed.
You should not be getting 6.5deg timing at 5000rpm. It?s definitely pulling timing because it?s getting knock, or your tables are jacked up.
You?ll also want to make sure your IAT2 temps drop at a reasonable rate. If they don?t, then you need to cool the air better, or not push the tune so much unless you don?t like the motor.
I can?t tell by the picture, but be careful because if it?s tuned wrong, the air/fuel could look good but it could also be the computer dumbing down and causing it to flatline. It doesn?t appear like it in the log, but just a future heads up.
You should be logging each knock sensor for each cylinder as well.
You should be logging boost lo res. I don?t believe the name is much different on the new software. It still says lo res in the name I?m pretty sure. That?ll let you know where your boost is.
I?m sure I could find more for you, but I?m on my phone and I?m sick of bouncing between screens lol.
Your scanner should log more items, and the values on some of your items I would change, but that is my preference. Your histogram should also change.
Good luck with it, but definitely fix what is pulling timing there because that?s not good. It should be able to hit 10 no problem, even with crap 91 fuel.
I should also mention that your IAT temps are pretty high as is, but I also did not fully look at the picture and what all would cause it. I?ve seen some cars that just run hot, but I?m not a fan of it. But again, if you have it done right and they drop temp at the right rate, then it won?t be too big of a deal. It?s the cars that get hot and stay hot that aren?t good. Just my two cents on the topic though.
Good advice I have it now where it is taking 8.5 degrees at WOT and going to try a bit more. No sign of KR I think the day was just hot and sticky and the intercooler was getting beat. I am logging boost on the dyno car will spike to 28-29 psi then level off to 22 psi at WOT
yeah your at the max flow rate of the turbo on the top end. ~34 lb/min
Part of the issue is doing it on a dyno. I prefer the street because it?s real world and it keeps temps down. Just my two cents, but what do I know lol.
My dyno is as close to real world as you get on the street with load and the safety of not buzzing the public highways at 130+ MPH. I do have a huge high CFM fan that is a pain to setup and just didn't use it for this quick tune. I usually break it out for doing crazy stuff and tuning VE tables
34 lb/min is as much as the turbo will pull in? I think I'm around 33-34 on my gxp and between 5000-6200 rpm in third geard it goes down to 29-30 lb/min. The car is stock and has no mods but cat delete and the tune. I heard the charge pipes are restrictive in these kappa cars and cause loss of boost on higher rpms. Might it be that or need to adjust some tables?
Turbo runs out of go fast up top. If you want better, then get a bigger turbo lol.
Also, it?s not just about lbs. I did a write up awhile back about how that?s not necessarily a sign of performance. Not sure if it?s still on here or not.
Hmm, I might have read it because your username seems a little familiar. And I figured I would need a bigger turbo lol. Just sucks that on the quarter mile I get a good launch and stay ahead until I reach third gear then they either catch up or pass me then. Specially the 5.0 mustangs. In my buddy's cobalt the car will hold 20-23 psi even up top. Then again he has full bolt on
Something like a larger gt28 is what I ran for about half year until I went full drag. Runs good through the whole range and comes in fast.
A small efr that has a compressor max efficiency around the 45 lbmin mark at a compression ratio of 2.7 ish would make a great turbo (6758)
HP Tuners has updated some parameter names and what not for logging but the gist remains about the same. I still have a Terminator2 tune that was done in person on my car. Damn that was a long time ago (2013 I think). Guys on the FB group were strait grimy when I tried to offer help to anyone.
Don?t disable the knock sensors. That is a bad idea....
Put the stock plugs back in. They are the best plugs on the LNF.
I?ve seen the updated parameters, and that?s expected since they updated software.
Disabling the knock sensors isn?t a bad idea, it just requires the user to know what they are doing and know what to look for. Also only recommended for the right uses of the vehicle. I wouldn?t do it on a car that will just be a daily driver lol.
Haha no offense, but I?m not saying to disable the knock sensors because they are telling you something. I?m telling you there are benefits to it in certain applications. And if you want to think I don?t know what I?m doing, I?ll agree to disagree. I asked about new stuff since I?ve been gone, but trust me, I?ve done a lot. Not trying to show boat, as you might be better than me. CSSOB, CodeNameBill and myself go way back and still talk to this day. I don?t say this to say you are wrong, just rather I have my feelings on it having a place, and I do have some knowledge to back that. Again, you might know more, so if you want to discuss your reasons, I?ll gladly listen. I might learn something new. I don?t mean that in a disrespectful way either. I always welcome different opinions.
Google Ryland Ballingham control systems, I have written papers modeling all different kinds of controllers so I have formal control systems education. Trust me I have been around for awhile I just don't come on here much. It looks like to me that the log posted in this thread is false or "burst knock", since timing isn't being pulled then as the IAT2 starts to climb the car is again pulling timing based on the IAT spark advance correction table, but what do I know.
You are taking offense to something for no reason. Again, you might be better, and I?m ok with that. I don?t tune anyone, just my own vehicle now. I simply stated that if you wanted to explain your reasonings I would gladly listen. If you don?t, we can agree to disagree with no hard feelings. I also gave a quick response to that picture because I didn?t look it over fully, and I thought I clarified that I didn?t look at it in depth. I just gave some info to take a look at to make sure everything was safe. If it is, then awesome. I haven?t seen the tune or a log, so I don?t know exacts. If you have more help for him, then awesome. Any help anyone can get is great. That?s what this forum is for, and it?s great.
If you want to learn how a PID controller works fundamentally, read my paper on it. If you are interested in tuning you will like it.... I think.
I?ll take a look at your stuff when I get a chance. I actually wrote PID Tuning on here. I think I have since deleted it from back in the day, but I did do some writings on it for the LNF. I?ll still read your work though, and compare it to my own and see if I might learn some stuff.
RYRO14,
my lnf was notorious for false knock, verified via link ecu knock block module fed back to the laptop. The computer does some funky things that can be registered as knock detection. knowing how all the tables work together and properly correcting them does just about eliminate this false kr which is what i am sure you are hinting here, but when your a shop and don't have weeks to figure that shit out then i disabled them and toss my link knock module on there to verify what i was commanding wasn't causing a legitimate problem. Between the dyno graph and the knock module you should be able to analyse the pull for an ignition related event. After the more costly dyno tuning session i can go back and find out which tables caused me the largest issue with kr and modify them to reduce the effect to match the knock block results. Since there is no base knock sensor calibration settings for the LNF this ends up being a technique some shops have to rely on to force a commanded result for time saving tactics. saying someone doesnt know what they are doing because they disabled some tables in a non-common fashion does not mean they dont understand what is going on. there are thousands of ways to tune these ecu's, remember to analyse the reason for the method and not the method itself.
the whole disable knock and take out some ats-v's thing....did any of those people actively monitor detonation with an outside detonation detection system such as haltech #HT-070104 or link knock block #KNB 105-1000? I like my knock block because i can monitor the live sensor signal on pc and the audio source together instead of just the audio source.
My ears are open? I take it I shouldn't leave this thing spiking to 28.8 psi of boost & then falling off to 22.5-22 psi?
if the turbo is bone stock then it wont appreciate more than ~24 psi for more than a couple of months. some people do get away with it but its not going to have customer longevity if that's important to you. the shaft overspeed will eventually kill it. the k04+ unit has a larger compressor wheel and died super fast for me at 26 psi. once the bearings started to deteriorate the heavier wheel expedited the process according to my turbo refurbisher. it was kind of disappointing but i recognize its an expendable unit and was beating the absolute hell out of that particular unit.
i did successfully run a 24 psi max boost for a year and a half. i tuned it to hold 24 psi for as long as the turbo flow would let me and then let it settle to 21-22 psi at high rpm where it just couldnt physically keep up. I know a lot of other tuners that tune for 20-21 psi and just let it rock out with a flat boost curve through the whole rpm range. doesnt peak torque as hard around 3200 rpm and save clutches/gearboxes. keeps intake heat build down a tad which is nice for cars that get beat for extended time periods such as auto-x or full circuit cars.
to go with that, i tuned my neighbors car for use at some hot desert tracks like seca and sedona. it was set at 18 psi because we wanted the endurance and it made iat a little bit easier to manage.
honestly just need to look at all the factors that come into play when you strain the turbo unit out and decide what you are willing to deal with and accept.
Hey Guys, im new to the tuning and new to the Lnf..was a former LS guy. My cars currently just got the hahn intake, zzp catless DP, ZZP Intercooler. I have installed the GMS1 Sensors and go today for tuning adjustments for those. My car obviously doesnt have the GM upgraded tune but currently sits on 21lbs of boost from previous owner tuning very little on it. Can someone help me out on making the proper adjustments to my car to get the most out of it without hurting it? i would like to ideally be around 24psi on the stock K04. I have seen the videos from CSSOB, should i follow those changes and go from there?
Patrick start a new thread. When you make your new thread use the "Go Advanced" thread feature. From here you can upload your most current tune files. This leaves all of your tuning progress in one convenient spot on the forum and the file allows all of us to see what you are starting with.
the way i walk through tuning the lnf starts with a stage 1 file and transferring its settings over into your current files. It offers a great starting point since its designed for a power increase by GM Engineers. From there i try to offer setting suggestions that set the ecu up to run in a defaulted minimal interference mode. Just like the LS stuff, you dont want the computer to be making a pile of active adjustments on you. You really want it to run what you command and then from there you can tune similar to any other type of platform.
Lets see what you are starting with when you make your new thread and then see what kind of recommendations we can offer you.
Okay not a fan of turning off the knock sensors but getting tons of false knock with .86 lambda and even 7.0 deg of timing at WOT
I would check for air leaks and injector seal leaks. These cars are insanely sensitive to either situation and will register knock for either
I would just replace them and then smoke test the whole thing. They aren't very expensive but the tool to properly install the 1 time use seals could be depending on where you shop.
There are other ways to put the seals on, but then again I use some back yard mechanic techniques lol. Haven?t had an issue and have done plenty of them.
pun intended? lol
Im sure you could get them on without the tool, I was fortunate to have bought one for $25 on Ebay many many moons ago. It def makes life easy