The Hustle-N-Rust 1969 Mercedes 280s With Twin Turbo 5.3 LS needs your help!

Hey my fellow gearheads,

I'm the founder and CEO of Hustle-n-Rust and wanted to share our current project that I think you all will appreciate ? the building of the HNR-01-280LS. This isn't just any restoration; it's a labor of love, transforming a 1969 Mercedes 280S into something extraordinary.

The heart of this beast is none other than an 800-1000 HP Twin turbo-charged LS 5.3L engine. I pulled it out of a 2001 Silverado and stripped it. it's getting new forged internals, importing the heads, and getting new everything basically. stage 3 Brian Tooley Racing Cam, and a bunch more. it will be paired with a t56 with the s1 sequential shift kit. would love to have a dogbox but we are on a tight budget for this first build and these t56 are easy to replace for the winner if they blow it up or want to do a clutch swap. the only thing I fear is I will love it too much and will cry when I have to give it away. Maybe I'll build a twin once I have a few of these under my belt. We are also building a 1949 Chrysler Windsor coupe and a cracked-out mini Cooper! I want to make sure you guys can send us some ideas too. we are planning to go to Holly Terminator. what do you guys recommend?

The blend of classic Mercedes elegance with raw, modern power is a sight to behold. The craftsmanship involved in integrating such a powerful engine into a vintage body while maintaining aesthetic harmony is truly a work of art. This is why we are working on getting a chassis built for it running hydraulic high-controlled coils and a ton of other goodies.

This Car is to be Purpose-built for several categories of race as well as reliably street friendly (if that is possible). It?s kind of like having a lion as a house cat but who cares? It?s extreme and beautiful from the custom Race interior that screams modern tech and makes it a contender on the streets today, every inch of this car has been thoughtfully designed and is slowly being executed.

This car is also the grand prize in a giveaway hosted by www.Hustle-N-Rust.com. I wanted to reach out to the forums and get your opinion and or suggestions on some of the details as we progress. we will be having our followers participate in polls that will give you a voice to be heard on items like wheel selection, color options, and some others as well.

I'm curious ? what do you all think about mixing classic car bodies with modern high-performance engines? Have any of you followed or participated in car build projects like this?
I would love to hear your thoughts and stories about similar builds or restorations.

I have attached some images of the renderings designed by Yassid Design out of the UK.

I hope you love it as much as I do!

Keep revving,

Andy from
Hustle-N-Rust

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/d...b951c3~mv2.jpg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/d...f90345~mv2.jpg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...176e3d~mv2.png

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...e581c2~mv2.png

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...84860~mv2.jpeg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...d3a1d~mv2.jpeg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...82dea~mv2.jpeg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...77182~mv2.jpeg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...050d0~mv2.jpeg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/c...31eaca~mv2.jpg

I think if you are using a Holley system then this is Spam.

This should be interesting.
Holley has a forum.

hey guys, and that is why I'm here. what should I be running? Holley has a ton of money and marekting skills. I wanted to hear it from the people that actually know. lets discuss

Maybe you could work out a deal with HPT to use their new Core ECU. They'd be smart to take advantage of the publicity if they want to compete with Holley. Especially for an out there build like you're doing.

I'm always down for a collaboration. I'll reach out and see if they are interested in a Sponsorship with us. We are a New Company and looking to build relationships with great companies with the best products for our type of builds. Do you have a YouTube video or link I can look at that would tell me more about it? I can google it for sure. just wondering if you have any specific details you think I should know.

I appreciate the help brother.

We are trying to be a completely different experience from the rest of these giveaway companies. we have a ton of Community engagement, we don't just sell apparel and accessories, we have a Custom wheel shop, and we can build any wheel you can think of. Carbon fiber as well. Our builds are race-ready street cars. All one-off builds. not just a Lambo with a Liberty Walk body kit.

all our builds will be smog exempt for our California winners. and we are working on building relationships with Manufacturers of Performance Parts to be able to offer those to you as well. tons on other great additions to our business on the horizon.

If anyone actually makes a classic mercedes look like those renderings they should be chained to the back of it and dragged by the balls until dead. I would not do that to a yugo, much less anything that ever had any value. Of course that is merely my opinion, and others are free to be as wrong as they want if they disagree with it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gametech

If anyone actually makes a classic Mercedes look like those renderings they should be chained to the back of it and dragged by the balls until dead. I would not do that to a yugo, much less anything that ever had any value. Of course that is merely my opinion, and others are free to be as wrong as they want if they disagree with it.

---

Not sure who hurt you! but there are plenty of people who love this car. I'm building it for those of us that appreciate it.


also, these 4 doors don't have much value. the coupes are the money cars. i have 3 cars worth of parts if anyone needs anything. trim, seats, radio, etc, etc, etc. Thanks for the hate! just ads fuel to the tank!

This still smells like spam to me. This is advertising for the company/project. Not a discussion for the GM V8 Gen 3 forum.

"I'm curious ? what do you all think about mixing classic car bodies with modern high-performance engines?."

"If anyone actually makes a classic mercedes look like those renderings they should be chained to the back of it and dragged by the balls until dead. I would not do that to a yugo, much less anything that ever had any value. Of course that is merely my opinion, and others are free to be as wrong as they want if they disagree with it."

"Not sure who hurt you! but there are plenty of people who love this car. I'm building it for those of us that appreciate it."

Thank God for the ability to hide individual forum posts with uBlock.

I find it funny. you guys are calling my post a scam because I own the company. if you read the initial post I said I'm the founder and CEO. I asked about Holly Terminator and the only person that actually responded said Holly is trash. instead of calling this a scam how about answering the questions I have asked or at least offering some positive feedback? You all are super negative!

I gave you supportive, relevant feedback.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hustle_n_Rust

I find it funny. you guys are calling my post a scam because I own the company. if you read the initial post I said I'm the founder and CEO. I asked about Holly Terminator and the only person that actually responded said Holly is trash. instead of calling this a scam how about answering the questions I have asked or at least offering some positive feedback? You all are super negative!

---

I didn't say scam, although it might be. I said spam, off topic and/or advertising. If you had posted this in the lounge, ok. If you had added it to the HPT Core release post, maybe. To post it in HPT, Gen 3 GM V8 section and start talking about a Holley indicates to me that you might not have any clue what HPT actually does, at least until about a week ago when they announced the "Core". Use a GM Gen 3 ECM with this project, then post on here.

If you want positive feedback on the actual project, mine isn't. Ugly as sin.

I'll give input for these considerations: build, Holley, spam

build: It is possible to 1000rwhp for 200,000 miles using a stock 05-07 5.3L/4.8/6.0L approaching 300,000 miles. Factory limitation of that engine era is around 1500bhp and the weak link is the block, not the internals. There is no point to changing internals it will reduce reliability dramatically while offering tolerance for abusive setup and tuning practice. Whenever somebody thinks it needs to be built to achieve that output successfully means they don't really understand how to tune or build a project affordably and reliably. I can already smell from here that the pcv will not be correct and the engine will gush oil to a collection device while piston rings will occlude crusty wall scratchings seized rings bore wear with little run time and low mileage, iron in the oil eventual wear and failure. You are not building a reliable daily vehicle you are building a pretty thing that needs to sit in a garage to be looked at and barely ever drives because of problems. This is not an attack it is a wake up call to gain more education and realize what a true forced inducted daily driver that may be enjoyed is: A vehicle with a stock engine and already have high mileage.



Holley: The unit is mediocre in terms of hardware quality, potted in a difficult way which requires grinding epoxy to fix components, odd protrusions which break and make expensive units worthless sometimes. Wiring is pretty good. Practice is pretty good if you know how to build and tune a custom ECU, which most customers do not. By the time I get there they've got the alternator wires zip tied to the crank trigger and the unit mounted in an impossible to access position. I think for what you pay the Holley is a great option, but nowhere near the level of Haltech in terms of execution and delivery of features in a meaningful way. Compared to the OEM ecu however the Holley is far superior because it have closed loop wideband which makes up for everything the OEM ecu might do better or have more options for.


spam: Nobody on this forum is ever happy for some reason whether you spam or not it makes little difference, they will generally bitch and complain no matter what and make sure you know that they are ignoring you and call you names. The moderation is shit and you can do whatever you want though so have at it, I encourage your antics and recommend research how to build a reliable daily driver with turbocharger application by investigating how Toyota Supra and Nissan Skyline 95-02 Engines are setup, they achieve high mileage the same way you can with Chevrolet engine if you understand their methodology.


Now let me show you how to properly spam
-Kalamadaya
PhD Mechanical engineering, MS Biomedical engineering, BS Biological science, mathematics, chemistry
25 years assembling forced induction applications
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2Sd3jBhc-A


Also make sure you attach a huge sig every single time you post , really lets people know the surface area of your brain

It's difficult enough making either a show car or a race car. Successfully combining them, especially on an old platform, is going to be very challenging.

Here's an example. Those turbines aren't protected. They'll be sucking in a lot of tire tire marbles during a race. Something that would be form and function would be like a velocity stack screen. They're on a lot of Euro builds, so it'd fit the aesthetic.
Attachment 139812

Staking your company's name on this type of project is a huge risk. That's why I suggested a business idea the would be mutually beneficial. Wish you the best.

As far as the criticism. First time poster. First time posters going into the wrong forum isn't a big deal.

Also, appreciate what OP is trying to do. He's actually creating a crazy build. That's something a lot of us dream about but never do. Don't get shitty with the guy.

I don't think I'm being insecure. I just think all he is doing is advertising his project/company. He doesn't want honest opinions, just positive feedback. Not everything deserves positive feedback.

To me, this isn't much different than the guy that repeatedly post that he can help someone tune, but never actually tries to help. Advertising>>>>Spam.

sorry, i meant to give you credit. yes, you were the only one to help. I appreciate it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SiriusC1024

I gave you supportive, relevant feedback.

---

here is the breakdown. I am the founder and owner of Hustle-N-Rust.com and I have been working on making this business and this car a reality for a few years now. Thanks to covid I had to start over. I had a nice shop and a ton of tools. now I have changed my strategy and focused on the marketing and design side of things. I am working on building relationships with builders, parts manufacturers, and communities that are about extreme car builds. the competition I have is the typical wide-body lambo, GTR, supra, etc. I have not really seen much in the world of my style builds. Don't get me wrong I have some simple giveaway plans in the mix that are faster to produce like a 2014 Mercedes s550. 2016 excursion conversion, and some others. but the annual main build will always be a crazy hand-built savage!

for all of you who think this is a scam or don't believe that this is happening. it's only because I am a small business and just starting the exposure strategy. I have already stripped the car down to skins, and pulled 2 motors from a Tahoe and a Silverado. One was stripped down and ready to build. the other is a runner for mockup. I wanted a running engine so I could hook up everything minus power adders and take it to shows or whatever without having to worry about all the details of the performance engine until the final step.

I have a t56 and trying to see if S1 out of Australia will sponsor the sequential shift kit. I have reached out to a few other suppliers for other parts.

That being said. The purpose of this thread was to get honest feedback on What ECU/tuning system we should be running in this car.
5.3L aluminum intake, ported heads, forged internals, BTR stage 3 cam, ARP hardware, and some other stuff like trunnion, etc, etc.

the options I know of are, Fitech, Holly, Texas Speed, Edelbrock, and the one that Sirus stated.

Some Real Advice would be Helpful! I would really Appreciate it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kingtal0n

I'll give input for these considerations: build, Holley, spam

build: It is possible to 1000rwhp for 200,000 miles using a stock 05-07 5.3L/4.8/6.0L approaching 300,000 miles. Factory limitation of that engine era is around 1500bhp and the weak link is the block, not the internals. There is no point to changing internals it will reduce reliability dramatically while offering tolerance for abusive setup and tuning practice. Whenever somebody thinks it needs to be built to achieve that output successfully means they don't really understand how to tune or build a project affordably and reliably. I can already smell from here that the pcv will not be correct and the engine will gush oil to a collection device while piston rings will occlude crusty wall scratchings seized rings bore wear with little run time and low mileage, iron in the oil eventual wear and failure. You are not building a reliable daily vehicle you are building a pretty thing that needs to sit in a garage to be looked at and barely ever drives because of problems. This is not an attack it is a wake up call to gain more education and realize what a true forced inducted daily driver that may be enjoyed is: A vehicle with a stock engine and already have high mileage.



Holley: The unit is mediocre in terms of hardware quality, potted in a difficult way which requires grinding epoxy to fix components, odd protrusions which break and make expensive units worthless sometimes. Wiring is pretty good. Practice is pretty good if you know how to build and tune a custom ECU, which most customers do not. By the time I get there they've got the alternator wires zip tied to the crank trigger and the unit mounted in an impossible to access position. I think for what you pay the Holley is a great option, but nowhere near the level of Haltech in terms of execution and delivery of features in a meaningful way. Compared to the OEM ecu however the Holley is far superior because it have closed loop wideband which makes up for everything the OEM ecu might do better or have more options for.


spam: Nobody on this forum is ever happy for some reason whether you spam or not it makes little difference, they will generally bitch and complain no matter what and make sure you know that they are ignoring you and call you names. The moderation is shit and you can do whatever you want though so have at it, I encourage your antics and recommend research how to build a reliable daily driver with turbocharger application by investigating how Toyota Supra and Nissan Skyline 95-02 Engines are setup, they achieve high mileage the same way you can with Chevrolet engine if you understand their methodology.


Now let me show you how to properly spam
-Kalamadaya
PhD Mechanical engineering, MS Biomedical engineering, BS Biological science, mathematics, chemistry
25 years assembling forced induction applications
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2Sd3jBhc-A


Also, make sure you attach a huge sig every single time you post, really lets people know the surface area of your brain

---

Thank you for your honesty.

please keep in mind at this point I am not going to be the builder. I am doing the research to make sure this is a daily/reliable car. I have a builder I know and admire who is willing to build it for me. he is an LS specialist and I would not attempt to build 800-1000 HP myself and claim it was reliable. This is why I need people like you to chime in and tell me where the issues will lie!

good to know i can spam the crap out of these negative nancies! cheers!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SiriusC1024

It's difficult enough making either a show car or a race car. Successfully combining them, especially on an old platform, is going to be very challenging.

Here's an example. Those turbines aren't protected. They'll be sucking in a lot of tire tire marbles during a race. Something that would be form and function would be like a velocity stack screen. They're on a lot of Euro builds, so it'd fit the aesthetic.
Attachment 139812

Staking your company's name on this type of project is a huge risk. That's why I suggested a business idea the would be mutually beneficial. Wish you the best.

As far as the criticism. First time poster. First time posters going into the wrong forum isn't a big deal.

Also, appreciate what OP is trying to do. He's actually creating a crazy build. That's something a lot of us dream about but never do. Don't get shitty with the guy.

---

once again, I appreciate you brother!

yeah the renderings dont show the daily driver accessories that would be required to make sure it doesn't get trashed! i was planning on some sort of high-flow filter. thanks for the attention to detail and support.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gtstorey

I don't think I'm being insecure. I just think all he is doing is advertising his project/company. He doesn't want honest opinions, just positive feedback. Not everything deserves positive feedback.

To me, this isn't much different than the guy that repeatedly post that he can help someone tune, but never actually tries to help. Advertising>>>>Spam.

---

Just quick to accuse me instead of asking what my intentions are!

sorry im proud of what i have built so far! i guess some people do not like to show and tell.

The Cheapest best ECU for giving away will be Holley. The best ECU for keepsies is Haltech.

The best engine for RWD V8 swaps in the world currently is the 2005-2007 L33 5.3L All aluminum. Get one with 150k miles or 200k miles. Find one using experienced mechanic skills that has not been messed with and has a track record and all original air intake and original pcv intact. Do not rebuild it. Do not open it. Do not send to machine shop. Use the stock engine. Put the Cam TFS-30602001 and valve spring PAC1218 and do compressor math to flow desired power, update the oil pan to a sturdy trap design and relocate the oil pickup for the trap sump, make sure to use correct o-ring, replace seals and go. This engine will support 1000rwhp easily on alcohol with around less than $5000 investment to the engine if you actually tune and setup properly. Fuel system is flex E50-E80 to make that power. NGK iridium plugs never touched by human skin gapped 0.028 to 0.032" Heat range 8 and these will be compatible with E10 gasoline to 700rwhp also with headroom for error. Final timing at 18psi 600rwhp is around 10-11*btdc on gasoline. On alcohol approaching 13* by 25-28psi 1000rwhp over 4000rpm is fine. On gasoline use 10.8 to 11:1 air fuel ratio. On E85 it can 10.5:1 to 10.8:1. Turbo compressor needs to flow twin 65lb/min each or single 120lb/min for 900-1000rwhp street setup. If twin turbo use high volume oil pump otherwise stock oil pump. Most important part on the engine is the air filter and pcv system. Use OEM pcv setup from Toyota Supra and use Turbo supra PCV valve from 1998-2002 Twin turbo supra. This is the big mistake everybody will make even professionals with 50 years experience do not get this part right. The PCV must draw air from behind the air filter approx 2" Hg of pressure drop on the crankcase at wide open throttle. This is the key to longevity and oil control for this engine at high output.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kingtal0n

The Cheapest best ECU for giving away will be Holley. The best ECU for keepsies is Haltech.

The best engine for RWD V8 swaps in the world currently is the 2005-2007 L33 5.3L All aluminum. Get one with 150k miles or 200k miles. Find one using experienced mechanic skills that has not been messed with and has a track record and all original air intake and original pcv intact. Do not rebuild it. Do not open it. Do not send to machine shop. Use the stock engine. Put the Cam TFS-30602001 and valve spring PAC1218 and do compressor math to flow desired power, update the oil pan to a sturdy trap design and relocate the oil pickup for the trap sump, make sure to use correct o-ring, replace seals and go. This engine will support 1000rwhp easily on alcohol with around less than $5000 investment to the engine if you actually tune and setup properly. Fuel system is flex E50-E80 to make that power. NGK iridium plugs never touched by human skin gapped 0.028 to 0.032" Heat range 8 and these will be compatible with E10 gasoline to 700rwhp also with headroom for error. Final timing at 18psi 600rwhp is around 10-11*btdc on gasoline. On alcohol approaching 13* by 25-28psi 1000rwhp over 4000rpm is fine. On gasoline use 10.8 to 11:1 air fuel ratio. On E85 it can 10.5:1 to 10.8:1. Turbo compressor needs to flow twin 65lb/min each or single 120lb/min for 900-1000rwhp street setup. If twin turbo use high volume oil pump otherwise stock oil pump. Most important part on the engine is the air filter and pcv system. Use OEM pcv setup from Toyota Supra and use Turbo supra PCV valve from 1998-2002 Twin turbo supra. This is the big mistake everybody will make even professionals with 50 years experience do not get this part right. The PCV must draw air from behind the air filter approx 2" Hg of pressure drop on the crankcase at wide open throttle. This is the key to longevity and oil control for this engine at high output.

---

looks like I need to source a new motor. sounds like it's well worth it though. Just to clarify you saying to even run the original intake manifold as well or just not to open the long block? Is there a detailed forum or article i can get finer details about this?

And this is exactly why I Came here! thank you so much!

Let me do some research on this and see what I can find. Does anyone know a great tuner in California that can help tune this bad mamajama? I'm hoping to get Art Morrison to build a chassis for it. we will see. worst case scenario I will rent a garage from a buddy and build it myself. I had a fab shop before COVID. so I have everything but the fixture table which I would build a purpose-built frame jig to ensure accuracy and precision. I prefer to outsource if I can afford it. But I'm a bit away from having the budget for that at the moment. I'm also considering offering a cash option for the prize as some people won't want a racecar if they win.

any thoughts would be gratefully appreciated.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hustle_n_Rust

Just quick to accuse me instead of asking what my intentions are!

sorry im proud of what i have built so far! i guess some people do not like to show and tell.

---

Just the wrong place.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hustle_n_Rust

looks like I need to source a new motor. sounds like it's well worth it though. Just to clarify you saying to even run the original intake manifold as well or just not to open the long block? Is there a detailed forum or article i can get finer details about this?

And this is exactly why I Came here! thank you so much!

Let me do some research on this and see what I can find. Does anyone know a great tuner in California that can help tune this bad mamajama? I'm hoping to get Art Morrison to build a chassis for it. we will see. worst case scenario I will rent a garage from a buddy and build it myself. I had a fab shop before COVID. so I have everything but the fixture table which I would build a purpose-built frame jig to ensure accuracy and precision. I prefer to outsource if I can afford it. But I'm a bit away from having the budget for that at the moment. I'm also considering offering a cash option for the prize as some people won't want a racecar if they win.

any thoughts would be gratefully appreciated.

---

Always use OEM parts that will handle the boost. OEM Truck intake will be fine. OEM LS6 intake is strong if you don't cut out the underside like some people do. OEM parts that will pressure test to 32psi. You must pressure test the engine fully. You should measure the crankcase pressure. The problem you will face is finding somebody to tune a stock engine for minimal cylinder pressure and set it up properly as almost nobody can do it. You need an engineer capable of designing the engine components to understand stress/strain related to temperature and pressure, and a chemist to analyze the chemical chain reaction of combustion rate equation who is also a mechanic experienced in fluid mechanics/dynamics. I've never seen it done properly, not completely. On one hand you may follow my build suggestions pay for my consulting and trailer the car to me for tuning and setup. But at that point you might as well just build the engine and make a bunch of mistakes it will cost less than my service.

Truck intake? It's supposed to look good, too. This is more like it.
Attachment 139849

If you insist on going the used engine route, and you're wanting Gen 3, opt for a 2005. They have the Gen 4 rods.

well, shit boys. at that point I might as well go with an LS3 crate, right? I was quoted 8k for a 6.0 truck engine built by a reputable builder I know.

if possible I would prefer to work with someone that would like to do some cross-promoting. I don't want to have a grenade that I hand to the winner. I am a firm believer in quality over quantity.

the only reason I was planning to go with the used motor plan was because I am bootstrapping the business right now. plus I wanted to make it swappable for anyone who might blow up the engine in the future. If they know they can just pull a truck motor and swap accessories so they can get back in it and have fun. i do like the dual throttle body look. I was considering the carbon fiber berson as the car will have tons of carbon.

hopefully, when we have sponsors we will be able to get crazy crate motors for the builds but for now, i gotta get the best option I can on a budget.

Every aftermarket intake I've pressure tested on an LS engine has leaked, had fitment issues, and more difficult to work on than a factory version. And the throttle body they choose situation is awful, wrong size, wrong rate, difficult, leaking, time consuming. The people who buy and install those intakes and junk never pressure test and have no conception of velocity and momentum at low speeds so they never realize. It can lead to cylinder distribution and idle quality issues as well as high egt and egp which leads to high iat in turbo applications. It can also allow junk from the air to bypass the air filter and that is perhaps the biggest issue with leaking.

'grenade' its when the engine has been recently rebuilt. A rebuilt or crate engine have infinite possibilities for single mistakes which pull the timer pin on the grenade. I could list the mistakes here but it would be a book. People building engines very easily make a tiny mistake which limits the mileage of the engine significantly. It may be 20k 50k so the owner never finds out if they only drive the vehicle 1k per year that could be 20 years before you hit 20k. Not a big deal if you don't daily driver the vehicle. I specialize to setup daily drivers, 10k/year vehicles, so we find out pretty soon. I've never seen a forged internals rebuild engine make it past 50k miles without significant oil related and wear issues and most don't manage 20k. It is possible of course but I've done stats in the early 2000's after having several machine shop awareness spikes and determined across all platforms statistically P < 0.01 less than 1% of rebuilt forged engines will sneak past 50,000 miles.

If you don't want a grenade you must use a high mileage OEM stock engine, say 50k to 150k perhaps 200k miles already with a care record and maintained investigation, evaluated properly. I inspected 1,000 imported turbo engines from 2002 to 2012 and got really good at picking them. They can go 300k its how you assure high mileage and longevity

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kingtal0n

Every aftermarket intake I've pressure tested on an LS engine has leaked, had fitment issues, and more difficult to work on than a factory version. And the throttle body they choose situation is awful, wrong size, wrong rate, difficult, leaking, time consuming. The people who buy and install those intakes and junk never pressure test and have no conception of velocity and momentum at low speeds so they never realize. It can lead to cylinder distribution and idle quality issues as well as high egt and egp which leads to high iat in turbo applications. It can also allow junk from the air to bypass the air filter and that is perhaps the biggest issue with leaking.

'grenade' its when the engine has been recently rebuilt. A rebuilt or crate engine have infinite possibilities for single mistakes which pull the timer pin on the grenade. I could list the mistakes here but it would be a book. People building engines very easily make a tiny mistake which limits the mileage of the engine significantly. It may be 20k 50k so the owner never finds out if they only drive the vehicle 1k per year that could be 20 years before you hit 20k. Not a big deal if you don't daily driver the vehicle. I specialize to setup daily drivers, 10k/year vehicles, so we find out pretty soon. I've never seen a forged internals rebuild engine make it past 50k miles without significant oil related and wear issues and most don't manage 20k. It is possible of course but I've done stats in the early 2000's after having several machine shop awareness spikes and determined across all platforms statistically P < 0.01 less than 1% of rebuilt forged engines will sneak past 50,000 miles.

If you don't want a grenade you must use a high mileage OEM stock engine, say 50k to 150k perhaps 200k miles already with a care record and maintained investigation, evaluated properly. I inspected 1,000 imported turbo engines from 2002 to 2012 and got really good at picking them. They can go 300k its how you assure high mileage and longevity

---

It's funny you said this cause I have always had this tingle in the back of my mind that building a motor event just the top half is going to result in issues. you're the first person to confirm my suspicions. everywhere you look online and in person everyone is like just gap the rings do this list of top half for the most part "cheap" upgrades/replacements. I started pulling a motor apart and I got another for a trade in front of the wrecking yard so I couldn't pass the deal. I know the one I have I was planning to use as a mockup runner is a clean running motor. have no idea if it is pressure-worthy. do you sell motors you find or what's the deal? I would like to find someone I can work with who cares about the result. seems like you might be the guy. i was planning to put a few LS motors in our builds so this is just the first. I really don't want to go over 1000 HP on any giveaway car. even that is way too much for the average semi-skilled driver. i would think a cool 600hp as an average for most of the cars we will do. I know 550-600 is pretty easy to do NA.

I really appreciate your time man. most people wouldn't waste their time chatting about this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hustle_n_Rust

It's funny you said this cause I have always had this tingle in the back of my mind that building a motor event just the top half is going to result in issues. you're the first person to confirm my suspicions. everywhere you look online and in person everyone is like just gap the rings do this list of top half for the most part "cheap" upgrades/replacements. I started pulling a motor apart and I got another for a trade in front of the wrecking yard so I couldn't pass the deal. I know the one I have I was planning to use as a mockup runner is a clean running motor. have no idea if it is pressure-worthy. do you sell motors you find or what's the deal? I would like to find someone I can work with who cares about the result. seems like you might be the guy. i was planning to put a few LS motors in our builds so this is just the first. I really don't want to go over 1000 HP on any giveaway car. even that is way too much for the average semi-skilled driver. i would think a cool 600hp as an average for most of the cars we will do. I know 550-600 is pretty easy to do NA.

I really appreciate your time man. most people wouldn't waste their time chatting about this.

---

I love helping and I can inspect and build wire weld tune etc... I have three shops here in Florida for these one with a dyno one for fab and one for general lift stuff. But you are very far and I am very expensive, It would be better if you ask questions and review my build thread for most of the answers these things I do for free in my spare time. You may start with these review some ideology then simply ask for the benefit of anybody


https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...river.2559833/
https://www.theturboforums.com/threa...ynojet.387535/
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/.../post-14023348

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hustle_n_Rust

I know 550-600 is pretty easy to do NA.

---

Forget about natural aspiration. Waste of time. It is not easy nor affordable and the methodology is upside down. Do not spend money on the engine. This is the big novice mistake- the engine needs to be practically free. Junk. The more you spend on the engine the less reliable it becomes. The worse economy will be. The worst the vehicle will drive overall and the more problems it will have and more bs to deal with and stress it will have. Main points of engine Stress comes from rpm and cylinder pressure and parasitic loss to make up for mis-placed energy that the natural and supercharged engines consume.

The most reliable configuration on the planet for vehicle internal combustion gasoline style engines is turbocharged. They exhibit the least stress and longest lifespans with the superior economy and reliability and most basic support requirements and ideal driving character. Of course I am talking about original turobcharged engines not the half @$$ hobbled together cheap turbo crap people build with crankcase vents and no air filter and $0.50 oversized turbos. Specifically setup: we need to copy the OEM methodology for successful high mileage examples from original turbo engines (e.g. Nissan Skyline, Silvia, Toyota Supra) and they will last just as long and become as reliable and drive the same way with torque where it should be and no dumb output shenanigans. This includes target oil temperatures and OEM quality air filtering and PCV which are essential and nobody gets it right. This is how you separate yourself from the usual junkyard garbage swap and achieve the OEM reliability from the original engine at 2x 3x 4x output figures, just like nissan/toyota does with their engines, the NA version vs turbo version.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kingtal0n

I love helping and I can inspect and build wire weld tune etc... I have three shops here in Florida for these one with a dyno one for fab and one for general lift stuff. But you are very far and I am very expensive, It would be better if you ask questions and review my build thread for most of the answers these things I do for free in my spare time. You may start with these review some ideology then simply ask for the benefit of anybody


https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...river.2559833/
https://www.theturboforums.com/threa...ynojet.387535/
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/.../post-14023348

---

I will review these threads. I don't expect anything for free if I were to hire you to provide the solutions to my builds. I have friends in Port St. Lucie and in Hollywood, FL. so I'm sure I will find something to do while I'm out there if I were to come out. That being said. if you have all that information available on these threads I'll do some research and see if my builder can follow them. worst case I will coordinate with you if you are available. It sounds like you are a busy dude and I would not want to waste your time. maybe if we run into issues I can hire you to consult and tune for us. I'll reach out when we get farther down the line.

what OEM turbo would you suggest for an LS build?

I love 2jz but for simplicity, I have decided to go LS for the next couple of builds. easy to find parts for and easy to work on for the most part. I'm sure Toyotas are as well I just haven't put any time into learning them. I do love Toyotas my first car was a 80 Toyota 4x4 and I loved it even though it was gutless. it was reliable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hustle_n_Rust

I will review these threads. I don't expect anything for free if I were to hire you to provide the solutions to my builds. I have friends in Port St. Lucie and in Hollywood, FL. so I'm sure I will find something to do while I'm out there if I were to come out. That being said. if you have all that information available on these threads I'll do some research and see if my builder can follow them. worst case I will coordinate with you if you are available. It sounds like you are a busy dude and I would not want to waste your time. maybe if we run into issues I can hire you to consult and tune for us. I'll reach out when we get farther down the line.

what OEM turbo would you suggest for an LS build?

I love 2jz but for simplicity, I have decided to go LS for the next couple of builds. easy to find parts for and easy to work on for the most part. I'm sure Toyotas are as well I just haven't put any time into learning them. I do love Toyotas my first car was a 80 Toyota 4x4 and I loved it even though it was gutless. it was reliable.

---

Yes 2jz is far superior and my favorite engine. But they are difficult to find the correct non vvti JDM/USDM versions of that infamous legendary artifact. sigh

Luckily the LS 4.8/5.3/6.0L Truck engines 02-07 are modeled closely after the 2jz. Almost the same thing just V8 form. I have produced lists many times on many sites comparing the those engines.

I only use top quality products on my builds. For turbos that always means Garret or Borg Warner. Both are OEM quality and pass pressure testing which seals up the crankcase and allows low density and low radius oil droplets with OEM PCV systems. Not all turbos can do that I've found many which leak into the drain during boost such as precision, awful just terrible.

If you are asking size wise for a 5.3L stocker a single S364 borg is my preference for high mileage affordable 600rwhp. It is what I used on 5.3L , extremely satisfied comes on like a lightbulb with the right drivetrain. Here is a video of a car with the S364 and a stock 5.3L even stock exhaust manifolds and a terrible noob crossover and two mufflers. Built the 4l80e myself and the right converter though otherwise it won't perform like that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y09lYL4Now


0:05 get on highway cruise note 16's
3:38 note 15.8 to 16.0:1 still cleaning plugs @ 65mph in traffic
5:18 kick out of lockup and small boost in 4th to move up in traffic
6:29 step down lightly into lockup for some boost in 4th
7:18 get off highway
8:23 downshift rip the tires loose at 50mph
9:12 slowing down for stoplight
9:20 Showing A/F Stopped at stoplight note 14.7 to 15.0 open loop steady
10:51 leave light, turbine whistle
11:30 cruising 15.6 to 16.0 housekeeping plugs
12:18 rip tires loose at 50mph 'spool character'
13:05 stopping for traffic light
13:10 show a/f for traffic light stop 15.5 walking into 14.7 to 15.0 open loop
13:52 2nd gear chirp coming leave light

PM me for my shops locations and contact info if you dare ;D