ATK HP116-G4 500HP Need help

Alright, I swapped in a "500HP" crate engine. Got it "professionally" tuned, to 304HP.

All my logs look ok, obviously I'm no expert so who knows. I know that my drive train isn't eating 200HP, I just can't figure out
where it's going. The only re-used parts/sensors are the TB, MAP, ECM, and oil pan.

I was wondering if anyone in here has a tune that I could use to compare what has been done to mine?
I'm not sure if the Pro actually tuned anything.

5.3l - 224/234 112LSA
Gen4 truck intake
Long tube headers
36Lb FF injectors
AFR CNC ported 59cc/200cc 2.00?in/1.57?ex
2800 stall

Thanks for taking a look.
Also, could anyone recommend a tuner around north central New Mexico?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SantafeNoob

Alright, I swapped in a "500HP" crate engine. Got it "professionally" tuned, to 304HP.

All my logs look ok, obviously I'm no expert so who knows. I know that my drive train isn't eating 200HP, I just can't figure out
where it's going. The only re-used parts/sensors are the TB, MAP, ECM, and oil pan.

I was wondering if anyone in here has a tune that I could use to compare what has been done to mine?
I'm not sure if the Pro actually tuned anything.

5.3l - 224/234 112LSA
Gen4 truck intake
Long tube headers
36Lb FF injectors
AFR CNC ported 59cc/200cc 2.00?in/1.57?ex
2800 stall

Thanks for taking a look.
Also, could anyone recommend a tuner around north central New Mexico?

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Your best bet to is move to lower altitudes my man.

Attachment 162701

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Originally Posted by Cringer

Your best bet to is move to lower altitudes my man.

Attachment 162701

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The air is thin up there. You'll want to compress it for a better air charge. There are devices on the market that can do this. Google "forced induction". Then stare longingly at your bank account. You're going to miss it.

One day...hopefully.

That "500HP" is a flywheel number, NOT rear wheel. So depending on your drivetrain, that 304 at your altitude may be all you're gonna get.

KOEO MAP is 81 Kpa. I feel light headed reading the data log LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

That "500HP" is a flywheel number, NOT rear wheel. So depending on your drivetrain, that 304 at your altitude may be all you're gonna get.

KOEO MAP is 81 Kpa. I feel light headed reading the data log LOL

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It just seems that the 500HP only "feels" 50-75HP more than the 315HP LC9 it came with.
Looks like I'm gonna need a supercharger.

I just came up with a new ? Is the 315HP 2010 LC9 a +500HP @ sea level.....or 119HP in Santa Fe? (with my DT losses)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SantafeNoob

It just seems that the 500HP only "feels" 50-75HP more than the 315HP LC9 it came with.
Looks like I'm gonna need a supercharger.

I just came up with a new ? Is the 315HP 2010 LC9 a +500HP @ sea level.....or 119HP in Santa Fe? (with my DT losses)

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Claimed horsepower is at the crank and based on the SAE J1349 standard testing conditions:
Temp 25*C
Pressure 98.9949252 kPa
Humidity 0%

Which results in an air density of
Density 1.1567 kg/m?

According to this calculator you will be about 108 HP down due to altitude and then if we assume another 15% for drive train (which is 59 HP), that results in 500-108-59=333 rwhp (for ideal conditions). Which is not far off from your 304 dyno result. Your local dyno may read low too, they are not universally calibrated for accuracy.

https://calculator.academy/hp-loss-a...de-calculator/
Attachment 162764

2800 converter doesn't help with numbers on a chassis dyno either.

320-330 rwhp is all I'd expect with a combo like that.

Being summer at high altitude. this lines up.

You should go back and remove some of the torque limiters. I wouldn't say that is a bad tune from what I see so far. The VE is pretty nice. Timing is reasonable.

Thank you all for your experience and time. I guess I'm gonn have to force it😁.

I'm looking at a Vortech supercharger, any experience with these?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alvin

320-330 rwhp is all I'd expect with a combo like that.

Being summer at high altitude. this lines up.

You should go back and remove some of the torque limiters. I wouldn't say that is a bad tune from what I see so far. The VE is pretty nice. Timing is reasonable.

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I'm still learning how to use HP Tuners. I went over the Torque Management tab, and with my limited knowledge, I couldn't find what you're referring to. I'm obviously looking in the wrong places, but what I see looks disabled/maxed out. If you could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it.
Thank you.

If this is a heavy vehicle and you have enough hood clearance I'd recommend a PD blower of some sort.

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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

If this is a heavy vehicle and you have enough hood clearance I'd recommend a PD blower of some sort.

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Yeah, on the dump scales she's 5800lbs. I'd love a Magnuson TVS, but it's double the price. With my son in college and construction what it is right now, I can't justify the extra $4k.

A PD feels completely different than a centri. You'll buy that Vortech, install it, and wish you'd spent the additional $$$.

No way i'd do a centrifugal on this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1

A PD feels completely different than a centri. You'll buy that Vortech, install it, and wish you'd spent the additional $$$.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alvin

No way i'd do a centrifugal on this.

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.....

If budget is the issue, maybe a chinese sushi slicer kit is a better option. Everyone loves a turbo.

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Originally Posted by DanN

If budget is the issue, maybe a chinese sushi slicer kit is a better option. Everyone loves a turbo.

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By the time you replace all the goofy stuff they come with they aren't a great deal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanN

If budget is the issue, maybe a chinese sushi slicer kit is a better option. Everyone loves a turbo.

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They don't make the low-end grunt of a PD. Yes it would be better than what you have now.

I vote Huron Turbo kit. Ive installed a bunch of them and no regrets.
Your cam wouldn't be my first choice but shove 15psi down the throttle body and it will wake up.

I'll keep eye's & ear's open, maybe I'll come across a good deal on a Magnuson/equivalent.

Any thoughts on GM's LSA charger on a truck? Are the retrofit's reliable?

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Originally Posted by SantafeNoob

Any thoughts on GM's LSA charger on a truck? Are the retrofit's reliable?

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The issue is the adapter plates

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Originally Posted by RDF1

The issue is the adapter plates

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Are there good adapter plates out there? I don't need more than 15lbs. As a factory SC I'd hope it would be fairly reliable.
Thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SantafeNoob

Are there good adapter plates out there? I don't need more than 15lbs. As a factory SC I'd hope it would be fairly reliable.
Thoughts?

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No.

Man, this was too quick and easy to talk him into forced induction. I can tell you how it would go at my house if I walked in the door and said, "Honey some random dudes on the Internet said I need boost..."
Attachment 162898

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cringer

Man, this was too quick and easy to talk him into forced induction. I can tell you how it would go at my house if I walked in the door and said, "Honey some random dudes on the Internet said I need boost..."
Attachment 162898

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Funny.
Seriously though, I've never "wanted a centrifugal charger (super or turbo). Digging around the net I've found several new LSA kits, that are a bit more reasonably priced. With adapters, injectors and upgraded cooling, I can get out for around $6k.

Don't do the adapter plates.

I flat out won't take tuning jobs with them if that tells you anything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alvin

Don't do the adapter plates.


I flat out won't take tuning jobs with them if that tells you anything.

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There it is. Thank you for sharing your experience.
The truck isn't bad it's just not what I (ignorantly) expected. I'll wait, until I can't stand it anymore, or I find a deal I can't pass up.