Active shutter delete

So threw some research I've found removing the active shutters inst as simple as it may seem.

You have to keep the stepper motor and build a small bracket to keep it within limits effectively a hard stop.

Then disable code P059F in diagnostics.

If you don't keep the stepper motor hooked up you'll get a U1510

I took a piece of plastic from my grill swap and built a small bracket to hold 2 self tapping screws and make hard stops for the #8 Allen key I ground up.

Thought this might help someone else out. I know they may grant .01 mileage but my IAT's with my supercharger are always around 80-125 even when its 50 degrees out this should help with airflow over the inner-cooler.

Attachment 104476Attachment 104477

This is probably a stupid question...

But could you not just completely remove them and just disable the code in HPT?

Tried that tosses a U code and says the A/C System comms are broken.

On my 2017 Silverado I just left the motor hooked up and zip tied it out of the way.

I understood it that it had to have hard stops or it would still throw the U code

If you make a bracket that still allows about 80 degrees of rotation, you don't have to disable the P059F but of course, if you are going to tune it anyways...

I service a fleet of these that run special lights in the grille so they just threw away the motors... for them I turned off P059F and U1510. I did not see any problem with the AC on any of them. For the rigs that I caught in time (before they threw away the motors) I just made up a bracket that limits motion to about 80 degrees.

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Originally Posted by IARLLC

If you make a bracket that still allows about 80 degrees of rotation, you don't have to disable the P059F but of course, if you are going to tune it anyways...

I service a fleet of these that run special lights in the grille so they just threw away the motors... for them I turned off P059F and U1510. I did not see any problem with the AC on any of them. For the rigs that I caught in time (before they threw away the motors) I just made up a bracket that limits motion to about 80 degrees.

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Nice didnt think disabling the U1510 code would be ok as if you pull the power from the TCS module you have a cascading failure that disables the trailer brakes.

If I remember right, the U1510 is just the PCM reporting that for a moment the AC control module got offended with the absence of the grille control motor. I kinda remember like it may have forced the cooling fan to run on high until I disabled the code but afterward all was OK.

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Originally Posted by IARLLC

If you make a bracket that still allows about 80 degrees of rotation, you don't have to disable the P059F but of course, if you are going to tune it anyways...

I service a fleet of these that run special lights in the grille so they just threw away the motors... for them I turned off P059F and U1510. I did not see any problem with the AC on any of them. For the rigs that I caught in time (before they threw away the motors) I just made up a bracket that limits motion to about 80 degrees.

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What did you use to delete the code? Can it be deleted permanently? I have to delete mine every other time I start my truck.

This is an HPTuners forum... Via HPTuners you can disable the code so that the PCM does not get upset by the absence of the grille motor.

Engine Diag>DTCs>find the code and change to "No error reported"

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Originally Posted by IARLLC

This is an HPTuners forum... Via HPTuners you can disable the code so that the PCM does not get upset by the absence of the grille motor.

Engine Diag>DTCs>find the code and change to "No error reported"

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Yes, I asked because I reached out to HPTuners and they said it could be deleted however it?s likely to come back, which is the problem that I?m currently having.

Maybe they misunderstood your question. Maybe they thought that you were just talking about erasing the code with a scanner which of course will not work as the error is still being committed. If you follow the instruction that I gave the code cannot come back. Or you can make a bracket that allows the grille motor to turn 80 degrees.

does anyone know how many credits it will cost me to do this same thing? only removing the air shutter code and the ac code it throws

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Originally Posted by beckauto5909

does anyone know how many credits it will cost me to do this same thing? only removing the air shutter code and the ac code it throws

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https://www.hptuners.com/vehicles/gm-tuning/

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Originally Posted by TheMechanic

https://www.hptuners.com/vehicles/gm-tuning/

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thank you this is what i was looking for.

Thanks for this.

Both my radiator and AGS were recently damaged (I didn't know I had an AGS when this occurred). A local mechanic replaced the radiator and discarded the AGS - he then simply tie wrapped the actuator to the underside of the engine compartment.

Now, on return of the vehile, on turning the key ignition I see the actuator hex drive turn clockwise then anticlockwise - this appears to repeat at least 4 times and then the fan starts.

If I make the the little bracket, with allen key and little open/close position self tapping screws at less than 90 degree start/stop travel, do I need to be concerned about the initial position that the allen key is inserted into the actuator?

If it's like any other GM actuator, it'll have to be within approximately the same range of travel as it had when installed. Outside whatever tolerance they have it programmed for, it will fail calibration.

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Originally Posted by blindsquirrel

If it's like any other GM actuator, it'll have to be within approximately the same range of travel as it had when installed. Outside whatever tolerance they have it programmed for, it will fail calibration.

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Understood - thanks.

I'll make a series of brackets with total travel ranging from 70 to 90 degrees in 5 degree increments and try those.

To be sure - do you imagine the calibration routine simply looks for the hard stop (at fully "open" and fully "closed") via some sort of torque sensor (to determine skipping)?

Typically they find the end points by looking for the current increase. On the HVAC stuff, they run up against the stop several times to get confirmation, then cycle full travel the other direction and do the same. The positions where the current increase happens is recorded as the endpoints.

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Originally Posted by blindsquirrel

Typically they find the end points by looking for the current increase. On the HVAC stuff, they run up against the stop several times to get confirmation, then cycle full travel the other direction and do the same. The positions where the current increase happens is recorded as the endpoints.

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That makes sense too - appreciate your insight.

I can confirm that blindsquirrel is right about GM's calibration method. When the first brackets were made for a fleet of GMCs (that had the shutters removed for their red and blue emergency lights) most of them did not work right and set codes and ran the fans. I went through each one of them to find the problems with their designs. Some had crushed the white gear that pivots in the middle so that it did not pivot well anymore. They had used a 6-sided metal piece through the middle of the white plastic gear so some of them broke the plastic teeth on the white plastic center gear. Epoxy resolved that. Then I just had to cut a little at a time from the bell-crank until the number of degrees of rotation was correct. Sounds like you'll get it soon.

I've had aftermarket actuators that had too much geartrain slop/flex inside and would just skip teeth at the endpoints instead of binding up and stopping. They'd move the doors full travel just fine but would never pass calibration, because current would never spike high enough to be detected.

On a semi-related note: Who ever asked for all this garbage? Heated seats? Heated steering wheels? Keyless ignition? If you really truly need those things you shouldn't be allowed to drive. Catering to the lowest common denominator, the laziest, dumbest, most unfit customers and then forcing the bullshit gadgets onto everyone by making them non-optional. So glad I no longer have to work on that crap every day.

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Originally Posted by blindsquirrel

I've had aftermarket actuators that had too much geartrain slop/flex inside and would just skip teeth at the endpoints instead of binding up and stopping. They'd move the doors full travel just fine but would never pass calibration, because current would never spike high enough to be detected.

On a semi-related note: Who ever asked for all this garbage? Heated seats? Heated steering wheels? Keyless ignition? If you really truly need those things you shouldn't be allowed to drive. Catering to the lowest common denominator, the laziest, dumbest, most unfit customers and then forcing the bullshit gadgets onto everyone by making them non-optional. So glad I no longer have to work on that crap every day.

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I take it you worked at a GM dealership? lol Im still stuck at one, so I know the feeling trust me. Even more fun now, with all the electric vehicles coming in......

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Originally Posted by niman

That makes sense too - appreciate your insight.

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85 degrees (approx) was first try Attachment 136072 and, on first test, apparently works spot on - a polycarbonate sandwich.

Before trying this i'd had the "Authorised" dealer hook it up to their software (115 GBP) which had reported all sorts of sensor fault codes (including ambient temp even though i'd just replaced it) and around 1300 GBP to replace the AGS assembly/sundries without any guarantee that further work would would not be required.

So, a BIG preliminary, thanks again ;)

Of slight interest, from cold the actuator simply goes from one stop to the other then stays at the grill "closed" position. However, if ignition is turned off then on again in a short period the actuator simply moves in one direction to "closed".

PS: I haven't yet reviewed to see if it steps toward the "open" position at high engine temp/etc yet (or even if fan turns on then etc) :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by BDPhoto519

This is probably a stupid question...

But could you not just completely remove them and just disable the code in HPT?

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The fins are removable. You could just pull fins and keep the rest of the assembly in place. Shouldn?t have an issue. I don?t fight lights or codes. Just a thought.