cruze 1.4t advice from masters

Hello,

I am not successful about acceleration after 3500rpm could you advice me what to do ?
here is my tune and stock and tuned file about cruze1.4t at, could you check and inform bad and good and advices .
thank you in advance.

please attach a log file
...i believe that your boost supply is not set correctly

If I may ask, do you live outside of the United States? The VIN in your tune decodes to a korean made 2014 Cruze, which I have never seen in the states.

Im assuming the vehicle is stock and in decent mechanical condition.
This means on the stock tune you have no check engine lights, no performance issues (aside from not meeting your desired level: things like hard starting, shaking at idle, etc), and no mechanical issues.

You should be running a spark plug with a NGK heat range of 7.
GM flip-flopped a few times over the years, resulting in confusion.
Many parts listings are out of date and do not keep up, resulting in even more confusion.

What I have listed below is GM's latest recommendation.
Failure to use a plug of this heat range WILL result in preignition.
OEM spark plug: https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...-plug-12681656
NGK equivalent (IFR7X7G): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SVHW7L4

Do not run copper plugs outside of diagnostic purposes.

I highly recommend running the highest octane rating fuel available in your area.
In the US I recommend an octane rating of 91 AKI, or 95 RON if you live outside of the US.

If the fuel in your area contains more than 10% Ethanol, make the changes to your stoich accordingly.

Regarding your tune, I noticed a few dangerous trends:
- You were fairly aggressive with the spark advance table.
- You increased knock recovery rate at load by quite a bit.
- You increased boost via Wastegate DC without increasing fueling.

Occasional KR on these engines is normal. Do not panic if you see a couple degrees being pulled every now and then, especially immediately after flashing.
Do not attempt to mess around with knock sensor sensitivities, recovery rates, etc to try and achieve "zero knock".

It may take up to 2 ignition cycles and 200 miles (~322km) for the ecm to relearn the various noises made by the engine, especially as it accumulates wear.
Do not make changes to the spark advance table until this period has concluded, or you'll be chasing your tail.

Attached is a tune I made from your stock calibration.
Use it as a place to get started.
The tune will begin to deliver full wastegate duty cycle (22-23psi of boost) between 2300-3000rpm.
It will hold it there to 5000rpm unless KR is present.

It is recommended to avoid full boost over 5000 rpm to prevent floating the valve springs.

I've made the following changes that are required to get full boost out of the LUV/LUJ:
TorqueManagement/General/MaxTorque
- PeakTorque: set to 220 from 2500rpm to 6500.
It is very important on small displacement engines such as this one that you do not ask for too much torque below 2000rpm.
- BrakeTorqueLimit: set entire table to 475.

TorqueManagement/TCBoostControl/BoostLimits
- BoostMaxLimit: Set all to 275 kpa
- Knock Airmass: Set 0.85g between 3000-5000 @ zero knock.
- You may also choose to raise the Pressure Delta Factor to ramp up boost more aggressively

Fuel/PowerEnrich/PowerEnrichment
Dont go nuts with power enrichment. This engine already adds quite a bit of fuel from turbo overtemp protection, and kicks in rapidly under full boost.
- Delay: Zero these out.
- EQRatio: Add a healthy amount of enrichment at the point where boost will start to ramp in (~2000rpm).
I set you high to start out with. Make changes accordingly, but avoid leaning out too much.
- EnrichmentRampIn: Set to 1 so power enrichment ramps in quickly.

Airflow/Turbocharger:
- BaseDC: This is your primary means of tuning boost. I set it to the settings I use from 2300+.
Because the quality of the wastegate actuators on these engines are not very consistent, you will probably have to make changes to this table.
- OverspeedLimitMin: I set this to 3 to disable this feature.

Spark/Advance:
- HighOctane: REDUCE the amount of spark advance at 0.75 airmass.
You may adjust accordingly, but be advised this engine does not need, nor does it tolerate, much spark advance.

Provided no knock is present and a premium grade fuel is used, the above changes should allow the car to achieve full boost safely past 2300 rpm.

Now to prevent it from going into "boost limp" from peaking the MAP sensor:
Under the Engine Diagnostics tab:
Airflow:
- P0101... MinEct: Set to 256F to disable.
- Overboost/Underboost: Set to Disable.
- BOV Diag: Set to Disable.

Then disable the following DTCs:
- P0101
- P0106
- P0108
- P0234
- P0236
- P0238

Please keep us posted as to how the tune works for you.

If you experience surging, you may need to adjust the Wastegate DC table.

On a 14 Cruze 1.4t with the auto trans can any decent power be made if the owner would like to stay on 87 mostly and put 93 in occasionally? I pulled his stock file but I’m totally new to gm and this platform. I been tuning the coyote mustang for about 2 1/2 years or so. Wondering if anyone would be willing to share some help.

@Bill88stang
Please open up a new thread or PM me regarding your request.

Do what I did.. Run a flex fuel sensor and run it on e85. when you dont want it you can switch to your 87.

Thanks for posting this. To disable Dtc's should I uncheck the enable SES box, or change to no error reported in the drop down?
I have been running my sonic around for 2 weeks since upgrading my cam springs and turbo and have been searching everywhere for info. This was very helpful.

SES stands for "Service Engine Soon". Selecting this makes the check engine light inthe dash come on when a code is thrown. Deselcting it means the light wont come on even if the code is thrown, so its possible to have code that you dont know about unless you scan for it.
To disable a setting you have to change the drop down menu to "no error reported" or "disabled". Some codes when disabled will prevent certain emissions tests from running so just beware, if you disable a code and expect to get away with passing all the smog tests, thats not guaranteed.

Cool, thanks for that mate. I'm beside myself with this E78. I got a quote for $750 to tune it because the tuner knows how time consuming it is, which I understand. At the same time that's a lot of money so I'm trying, with a lot of research, to do it myself. Yikes.....

Everything is getting more expensive and time is still time so i feel ya. If you have patience, the guys here are pretty good with the latest Virtual VE (VVE) ecu's.
I started out learning on here and came out ok so you'll be fine. Small adjustments and a good understanding of physical limits and you will be just fine. You got this.

Thanks man! Love this forum. So awesome.