Anything to gain on stock L67

Ive got a stock L67 supercharged 3800 in my 97 Firebird. I am running a stock GS tune right now along with a stock pulley. Only thing done to the engine is a good exhaust without a cat and an air filter. All the engine files are stock L67 GS stuff that I put in place of the NA 3800 stuff. Trans is a 4L60 and I havnt changed anything on that. Only thing Ive messed with is the torque management has been for the most part deleted and I raised the speed limiter.

I was going to be bringing it to the track this weekend before it gets to be winter and was wondering if there is anything to be gained by adding some fuel or timing into it, along with if the scan looks 'good'.

I was reading that the long term fuel bank numbers should be close to zero but mine are at 15%, is this a problem? This is the first real drive on a replaced O2 sensor too and it seems as if I lose 15ft lbs on my trans delivered torque readout.

I have a scan attached from yesterday.

try bumping the timing a few * at a time and do a run. if you start seeing knock you can tune that part of the timing table. your LTFT are about right, locking in @ 0.8 under WOT from what i see it is doing about a 10 sec 0-60 and that seams a little slow to me. other then that it looks like a stock file.

PM me, I can send a tuning guide as an attachment that was made for tuning these 3.8's.

Or try this link.
http://www.regalgs.org/topic/25018-d...97#entry302597

this guy was a Wizard! he has since moved on.

12.5-14* advance at WOT might explain the slow.

That should be around 16* minimum.

What MAP are you running?

see where your AFR is. Your seeing KR sitting still "Could be false but still needs to be addressed". Looks like your getting a lil blip when it shifts as well. But agreed your timing normally is in the 16-17 range when KR free throughout the board.

I did another 3-4 good pulls today and on one of them I got 3 degrees of KR which is the most ive seen. I dont know why it started to knock when nothing changed from the pass before but maybe it was getting hot.

Ill try and throw a bit more timing in up top and fill up with 91. Think its mixed to around 89 or so right now and see what more timing does.

I forgot to add, I redid my air intake and got the air filter down into the inner fender and dropped the IAT 30 degrees. I did notice on the scan I posted that the IAT's were very high, highest Ive ever seen on it. With the IAT's around 85 now it seemed to have 15* advance now. Dont know if that had an affect for what. First 3 pulls knock free, last one solid 1.5* across 2nd gear and spiked to 3* on shift.

The what map am I running brings me to another question, I am running the stock GTP MAP that I repinned the Firebird harness to adapt to. Does the NA Firebird ECM have the capability to read boost? I was told that I needed to redo the ECM to read boost but I have no idea how to do that.

You should be running 91 or higher until you get some flow mods going on.

Then you might be able to run lower octanes.

I dont think there is a s/c bin file for your vehicle. Thus you can't run the L67 MAP sensor and have it make sense of it.

At least thats how I recall it. Could be wrong on that one.

a fwd regal GS tune is running a 4l60 trans ? fwd tune/ rwd trans without a segment swap ???

I am running the GS engine tune but everything else is RWD 4L60.

I have a 3" manifold back system without a cat. Im putting headers on this winter. Makes about 5 PSI.

When I did the tune I wrote down the 3 differences between the PCM's. One was under knock retard, and I cant recall the other 2.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by murphinator

a fwd regal GS tune is running a 4l60 trans ? fwd tune/ rwd trans without a segment swap ???

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Slight hijack here but can you swap that segment independent of the rest of it? What about taking TapShift from a CompG and putting it on a 2000 GTP?

Thanks,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CTX-SLPR

Slight hijack here but can you swap that segment independent of the rest of it? What about taking TapShift from a CompG and putting it on a 2000 GTP?

Thanks,

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Wont happen. Files are completely different and wont support it and the trans are different internally and electrically.

My other question on this is with the map sensor. When I am at idle and have around 20" of Hg the map says I am getting 24 KPa. How does that convert to inches of Hg and PSI? 24 Kpa is 3.5 PSI, but im not boosting in idle. And the same goes for boost. I get a max of around 77 KPa which is around 11 PSI. My guage shows that I am getting 5 PSI or so which on a stock pulley with an exhaust is normal.

Is my MAP inacurate or does it just read off or something else entirely?

you could always go open loop and lean the cruise out for gas mileage. depends how much time you want to put into it.

even 5psi seems a bit low the ones i have seen are 7 stock headers would drop it a bit but the exhaust wont drop it that much

5 PSI at 4000 RPM is normal, but so is climbing to 7 PSI by the top of second.

MAP reads absolute pressure.

1 atm = 14.6959488 pounds per square inch

20 inches of mercury = 9.8219556 pounds per square inch

14.6959488 - 9.8219556 = 4.8739932

4.8739932 pounds per square inch = 33.6050002 kilopascals

I think you missed this question:

Quote:

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What MAP are you running?

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Also, which MAP file are you running?

That atm part makes a lot of sense. Thanks for clearing that up. I have payed more attention to my guage I have in the car and it is deffinitly 5PSI by 4K RPM and climbs to 6PSI father into a run. I have a full 3" exhaust system with a good muffler and no cat. My teflon coating on the roters was also not in the best of shape so it is possible that I am loosing 1PSI or so there.

I am running the stock 97 GTP map. I am running a 98 GS MAP file, or what I assume it is. All the engine stuff is directly copied off a GS tune. Changed all the engine tune stuff over.