yea i understand. i will mess around with it a lil bit tomo. if all else fails, i will just drill a hole as a last resort. thanks for the help.
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yea i understand. i will mess around with it a lil bit tomo. if all else fails, i will just drill a hole as a last resort. thanks for the help.
thinking about it... the IAC probably opens up to 310 even though you can command further.. so you probably need to drill a small home..
put back in the stock IAC table...
you then need to drill a hole till you get the IAC to read 60~80ish with the AC off and Fans off when up to full operating temperatures.
How big of a hole would u say would be good enough? I remember from my logs that my iac was around 30 to 40 at full temp. Wouldn't I have to adjust the screw downward (I think close the blade a lil bit) to get a higher iac?
it could be as simple as needing a differnt value in the RAF tables.
try upping the values in the lower cells where your cold starts are right now... see if that helps...
you will just have to double check the IAC counts...
Lets try this, monitor TPS voltage and the %.
Lets see what you have the voltage at, if it is too high you are getting into different fueling tables other than idle.
If you are not .47-.58 volts at 0% throttle you need to do some adjusting of the throttle stop to get the voltage back in line.
Grab the guide in my sig, it should explain the idea of tweaking the TPS and resetting it.
i have been using ur guide like crazy. great guide. my voltage is at 0.55 V right now. it was originally at 0.63 V.
so i finally got the wideband back. the car is very rich at startup. what do i need to change to compensate for that? does it have anything to do with the raf table? i uploaded my most recent tune.
Idle Air Fuel and RAF have nothing in common other than they are both idle..
you probably need to adjust your OLFA table. it is responsible for fueling at startup .
your VE and MAF tables will need to be tuned first at full operating temperatures.
then you can go back and do a cold start and log data and adjust the OLFA table accordingly to get your idle in line at colder operating temps.
i just want the damn car to start without having to press in the gas. its getting very annoying. i was reading about the iac park position table (from what i understood, it is where the blade is at when the car is off) do i need to adjust that to make the blade open up more when the car is off?
i have a feeling the iac park position wont work. im just gonna reopen up the screw until i figure this one out.
any more suggestions?
what injectors are you using? ls3 injectors?
I ask as i see you have one thing changed and nothing else for injector settings.
The IAC is a separate area of the throttle body that is not associated with the blade. The IAC opening is at the top of the TB. The IAC motor is driven in and out of its bore to allow more or less air in behind the blade to try to control idle.
Crack the blade open to 1%, unplug the IAC and TPS, turn on the key, turn off the key. See what the TPS voltage reads, if still under .60 volts, try starting the car, if over, remove the TPS, cut the locator pin off the back. Reinstall and with the scanner on, rotate the TPS until the voltage is back to around .57.
Do this again if still have to push the pedal to start by increasing 1% again.
ok will try it out, but wont the iac position drop back down to 0?Quote:
Originally Posted by 69lt1bird
It will try to rest itself.