Repaired vacuum leak now idle issue

Picked up a "built" and "tuned" 6.0l swapped C5 a few weeks ago. ran real well when i got it but HVAC wasn't working. I found that when they installed the engine they never hooked up the vacuum line for the HVAC on the back of the manifold and didn't even cap it. so now of course that i fixed it cold start is wants to fluctuate the idle and die at stops. which is understandable due to the repaired vacuum leak. I plan on starting the re-tuning this weekend but wanted to know if i can just adjust the BRAF to get it to idle better to keep from stalling?
The tune i pulled off the car is attached and looks real high on the BRAF compared to a stock 6.0l tune.

Make sure PCV is connected and all airflow metering orifices are intact before trying to finalize any idle speed airflow as these features all account for some airflow component. For example without PCV suction to intake manifold the idle may become lower.

Perform a basic pressure test on the intake system to ensure all leaking is fixed.

Also it is wise to investigate the default position of the throttle valve, to make sure it isn't jammed closed "too closed" some of them can be modified via set screw to become more closed than they should be.

Now you can simply add base running airflow and monitor IACV or DBW position and change rate. For IACV you want the fully warmed running condition to be nearly closed completely with very little if any change rate, the low position will give headroom for cold starting and the low change rate indicates the other maps of the ECU such as timing and VE are tuned well enough that the idle is stable and very little correction is needed.

You can take manual control using the scanner to diagnose whether there are issues related to tuning or mechanical or electrical etc...

thanks, I appreciate the response

C5 is ETC so you can ignore most of that.

He did not specify whether it was DBW or IACV. Only that it was swapped with a 6L which could be anything. I am not wrong to guess in my response. Therefore I tailored my response to fit both types of throttle valves.

Many people remove DBW and convert to IACV and cable. I did on my engine.

I am sure he is smart enough to figure out which information pertains to which kind of throttle valve.

1. The PCV statement is true for both
2. The Pressure test statement is true for both
3. The rate of change of DBW position is true for both.

Therefore "most" of my response is absolutely correct and on point. The only thing is where I say "for IACV...." which obviously means for IACV.

Oh and one more thing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2xLS1

C5 is ETC so you can ignore most of that.

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I see that you have taken the time to call somebody out on the forum, an attack.

Yet you fail to provide any additional or corrective information.

It seems your sole purpose is to attack other members without providing any technical support.

I do not think this type of behavior is representative or desirable in technical support forums.

If you wish to correct somebody, then correct them and provide some information. Do not attack; it marks you as an insecure and envious nature.

Tech man, did you check to make sure that manifold vacuum line goes to the reservoir tank and the tank, the check valves are good and hose routed to your controls inside it's good? Does the AC/ controls system work lol, but car stumbles now? Take hose back off and plug port. Is everything working like it was? With hose on manifold vs hose off/port blocked, what is MAP readings for each at idle? With the hose hooked up do you have to use pedal to keep it idling?
And would you please answer which type of throttle body are you running on this? Original DBW or a DBC?