2.0 Ecoboost tuning Ford Escape

Good afternoon everyone. I'm slowing tweaking things a little at a time. I have heard there are a lot of limiters on the stock tune that I haven't quite gotten into yet. Right now I'm trying to finalize Transmission tuning, and DFCO. Very new to tuning and wanting to keep it on 87 octane. I can see the computer pulling timing not showing any Knock retard though. I'm guessing I can get more timing then what Its currently allowing me to just not sure how much. I am wanting to do it as safely as possible of course. Can someone take a look at the tune file and datalogging to provide some suggestions. I have read over the 3.5 ecoboost tuning guide posted and gotten pretty happy with the transmission tuning so far, until I learn more that is. Any who here are the files, I know the datalogging for the WOT pull isn't the best but working with limited area safely.


P.S just noticed I managed to change the global spark +2. I have gone back in and adjusted that to 0

Hey, I've been working on my Escape as well and give you my input. A lot of what I have done comes from the Tuning School Ecoboost class.

I wouldn't increase timing anymore for WOT, you already have 4 deg of knock. This also could be caused to your fueling. Looks like it's dumping in fuel at ~.72-.74 lambda. This is usually due to CAT protection. Assuming you want to keep this, I would lean it out to .78-.80 lambda. under Fuel -> temp control -> Max enrichment. Change this and re-log watching your knock.

Max Gross Torque (table 11844) needs to be maxed out.

Your Flange temp should be raised 100 deg.

Your Fuel Enrichment Pedal needs to be changed. When you open it, it will show only 6000 rpm and 90%. Change it to start at 1000 rpm up to 7000 in increments of 1000. The change your pedal % to something like what I have
1000 90
2000 70
3000 50
4000 35
5000 10
6000 10
7000 10

Drop your vehicle speed delay to 0

0 out Enrichment Delay

WOT Lambda (33784) make everything under 150 deg and 180 deg = .82

Under Torque Model ->Monitoring, Disable Clip/Add Mode

Max Torque right underneath that should be raised to 500.

IPC Torque Monitors....Torque Maximum and MAP Maximum, the whole table should be increased by 25%.

In the Trans section....
Torque Management -> General
TCC limit, Change to 600
Truncation drop down menu, disable that
Truncation vs gear (40070), set all gears to 600 except in reverse

Torque Surge Torque Clip, make sure everything is 1024, usually some at the bottom are lower.



This should get you started. There is still a whole lot to do but should get you moving in the right direction. Make these changes and go for a drive and see what you think.

You cant change from lbs on either the torque maximum or MAP maximum tables to a percentage adjustment though ?

Hey I have made these changes and will be giving it a go here within the next day or so. I have adjusted a few other things from logging the limit sources and adjusting them very slowly. I've limited the boost while I'm making these changes to protect the motor with running 87 octane. So far since the original post I have adjusted Part Pedal Combustion Max around 7.5% higher and the Driver demand normal desired torque by 5%. But looking at the log I don't think I adjusted the right thing. Oh well its a learning process. I will have questions for sure about the adjustments posted. I greatly appreciate the input. I'm also wondering and have been searching for a way to adjust the PTU to get out of AWD during acceleration after a certain speed to decrease fuel consumption and increase acceleration after the initial "launch"

I loaded a tune that I,ve been toying with this week, made a bunch of changes base on what you said need attention. So far I like the results, I just gotta get my shift points dialed in, and I think the trans will be good.

yeah I think the transmission shift points will need work. I really hate the 2-3 shift delay that I'm continuing to chase but it seems to be a very common issue. I will be loading the tune tonight to give it a shot

Yes, you make airflow changes in percentages and the same amount across the board.

I dont know how to make the awd system to only use all wheel when you take off from a stop and switch to 2wd after that for gas mileage. But I do know to toally disable it. I have had mine disabled for a couple weeks now for better gas mileage and I do get about 4-6mpg better by leaving it set to fwd only. Under System -> AWD -> Power Transfer Unit. Set Maximum Driveline tq to 0.

In my SHO I changed the tables from 0-3 in both high and low steering wheel angle in System-AWD-Power trasnfer unit. Set the precentage of the torque desired to AWD to 0 in the low accelerator position for all modes. I also would zero out the enrichment delay, lower enrichment pedal, increase the enrichment rate and command leaner mixture 0.79. You may want to zero out the spark advance in the fuel spark correction.

I will look into adjusting these to get the desired effect. Currently before loading the new tune I'm getting 28.5mpg right now on the speedometer display. Roughly 60% hwy 40% city. I'm hoping to really push it towards the 30mpg while still increasing performance. Im watching the in laws kids so that's taking the majority of my time. I'm really glad to see yall sharing this information as I've heard the newer fords are more difficult to tune. This is the first vehicle I've ever tuned so I'm taking everything super slow.

Ok so I have tried multiple different adjustments and can feel im going in the wrong direction. my 0-60 is suffering and im getting more spark pull. I am getting slightly more airflow but anyone have additional suggestions? Take a look and let me know if I changed the wrong areas

ok so move back to my 5th tune revision. Picked up a second on my 0-60 while requesting lower boost. Looks like it topped out at 16psi. Used a few of the adjustments that yall listed above but not as extreme on leaning out the WOT Lambda to .79 but changed it from .74 to .76. I maxed out the enrichment rate and zeroed out the enrichment delay. I noticed on this datalog that even though it was pulling timing it was saying no knock was detected. I'm not sure if that means anything of course cause I know knock is controlled per cylinder I just figured it would ask if its pulling timing before it knocks and how to stop that from happening. I also noticed I'm getting popcorn tq limit and hitting my combustion stability driver demand limit as well so I will be adjusting those in my next revision.

Ok everyone making great progress after some trial and error. I brought all my tables back to stock and was having issues with the throttle closing. Only thing that was causing it was my LSPI tables. So I have that sorted and based on tq at 5500rpm I'm right at 252hp (calculated). Overall the area under the curve is lower so I've gotta sort out that eventually. I did not touch any lspi tables under 2000rpm which is usually highway cruising speed where most LSPI situations happen. I will keep everyone updated as I progress.

Hey yall its been awhile since Ive been back on but still making slow progress with the tune. I'm on revision??? at this point but I've started messing very slightly with the Intake valve timing. Running 87 octane and still working out the KR with the extra boost. The first run was the best but getting a lot of fluctuation from one run to the next. Part of it I'm sure has to do with the intake manifold charge temp. Anyone get any additional advice that they have learned messing with these motors? The other thing I would like to check on is my EQ commanded jitters during normal driving instead of just commanding 1 Lambda.

Welcome back dubau2! Thanks for the update on your progress. I enjoy seeing what people have learned and see if there is anything I can learn from the experience.

First, to help get you consistent pulls, I would recommend you change the trans shift schedule when your doing pulls so it doesn't down shift . I like to use 3rd gear because the car is loaded. So the car still starts in 1st gear, then 2nd, then I go WOT at 2500 rpms in 3rd. You just need to go into Trans -> Shift Scheduling. I use Sport mode so that I can see the gear I'm in without looking at my computer but it looks like you don't have it. So try "Base" and change the 3->2 downshift to 500. You can also go into Trans -> General and change the "Trans Gear Display" to a "1" in Drive to show you the gear your in if you like to.

It also looks like you still have a few adjustments to make in the tune. I made few to your file. It looks like your also butting up against your max TIP of 250 KPA. If you want more you would need to adjust that in Engine -> General -> Pressure Control -> Max vs Turbo Airflow and Max Pressure on that same tab.

Your intake cam timing is very similar to mine. Looks like your doing well with everything, keep at it.
Attachment 105324
Attachment 105325

I forgot to mention, you need to increase you max load for your mapped points in Engines -> Airflow -> Speed Density

Hey just got back from a run with those changes in mind. the results weren't as good as the previous tune as I'm getting better power down low and up top advancing the timing by 2 degrees across the RPM band instead of retarding it 2 degrees after 4000 rpm. like in the previous tune I posted. I have gone in and adjusted the max load for the mapped points but couldn't tell if that helped or not during the pull since I was down more power. One of the things I'm fighting is finding the right boost level since I'm running 87. It appears anything over 18.5psi down low and over 16.5psi in the higher rpms are causing me to pull to much timing which is reducing my power.

So I did multiple runs and was definitely heat soaking. My best run it calculated 274hp @6020rpm and 276ft/Ibs @ 3040rpm. Most of the time I'm heat soaking which is resulting in a large losses especially with the sensitivity of 87octane. During the pulls I wasn't heat soaked I'm not getting much knock. So it seems to be a pretty safe tune. I guess its time for some upgrades to keep my charge temps down.

Made another run today with colder charge temps but pulled a calculated 280ft/ibs and 282hp. I'm going rich up top and a little leaner then commanded on the low side. My next step is to straighten out the fueling which I'm way over my head on this currently. Been looking at the speed density calculator and have no clue how to use it. This is even after reading all the topics I could on it. Also getting anti clunk limit on my lower range. I'm sure I could be pulling more tq but I can't seem to get it to act right.

Good to hear the improvement. Looking at the previous comment about the results not being good, I was about to comment that you were just raising those limits, nothing more, but reading further on, good to hear is was better with the colder temps. Would you mind posting the log you did with the colder temps?

Yeah ill have to post it but I have those limits raised and kept that portion of the tune. I didn't adjust the shift points yet but I do have sport mode that I have to launch in 2nd instead of 3rd as it will down shift in sport mode if I start in 3rd. I was going to ask how to keep that from happening in sport mode vs drive or if it was the same process as you listed before.

here is the log and tune for the most current run. with the cooler air temps this just makes me want an intercooler upgrade and water/meth kit installed. The best run happens @ 8:30:31