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Just bought a 2006 Mustang GT with a 2.6L intercooled kenne bell TS.
Car is running on 10Lbs. The first few days I had the car, it was great
Soon started noticing the car cut out under boost. It is so bad now that I'm avoiding getting into boost almost entirely. Have done a little bit of logging when I could outside of work. My suspicion is that the fuel pump is dying in the car.
Some second opinions would be very helpful tho
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Check the condition of you spark plugs and make sure your intercooler pump is flowing coolant. Your IAT's are 160 to 180 degrees which seems pretty high for an intercooler. Check your channels for knock retard or knock correction.
Or see how this channel list works.
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Edit: After further checking out your tune. You have timing far too advanced. Your commanding 26 to 30+ degrees WOT and your datalogs are showing only 15*. What octane fuel are you running?
You do not have stock intake manifold any more so your IMRC spark modifiers should be zeroed out. Timing has been cut in Spark Modifier for IATs from -90 to -20 at 150*. You might want to try changing it to -50. Check for knock retard in your channels.
I was looking at the IAT spark tables earlier…. I was also wondering should I set the LTFT disable from 34mph higher than that…. Took the car to work this morning (45 mins) data logging the whole time with a few more channels. I’ll try to post that log file this afternoon when I get off
Will try out your channels on the way home.
I’m starting to wonder if the cutting out isn’t a boost leak. It cut out really hard one time this morning and then ran like shit after. Blew the boost gauge line right off the port it’s hooked to.
Also I’m running 93 pump gas
I was looking around trying to figure out what’s pulling all the spark at WOT but I couldn’t find anything other than possibly IAT spark. I haven’t touched the tune, this is what came on the car. Not sure if it’s the “Kenne bell” calibration or not.
If it was running good before and isn't now the likely hood of it being a tune issue is pretty small. You can't properly tune a car with mechanical issues, you will just chase your tail.
Your fuel pressures are doing exactly what they are supposed to.
Check for vac and boost leaks, follow @thatwhite5.0's advice, good stuff there.
Had some better logs but was not able to upload them here. Created this google drive folder to put them in. Let me know if you can't get in.
I used the channel list you sent me in the most recent one. I see that the spark source is borderline knock almost every time I get even a little bit into the throttle. but knock retard is staying zeroed out. please advise.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...w4?usp=sharing
Would you happen to have a good layout for graphs and charts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aguyfromms
Knock Correction is doing something I've never seen before and has values of +180* which has to be an error.
Your Fuel trims do run very lean once you start giving it heavier throttle.
MAF vs Volts is rescaled and populated for smaller than stock MAF housing. I don't like.
Injectors are also scaled differently and can be causing issues.
There are a lot of things that aren't adding up.
What is the full mod list? Injectors, fuel pump, MAF housing etc.
Given that it was running fine before.
Here are some adjustments it needs + spark break up test + more.
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Did you check what was mentioned in previous posts??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatwhite5.0
I never did find any vac/boost leaks.
Also I noticed. Car is super smooth all the way up to peak boost for the first 20 minutes or so of driving. However once I’ve hit boost a few times and or driven for longer than that, is when it starts to act crazy under boost.
And I’m not sure if I stated previously or not, I just bought the car. Previous owner bought the car with the kit already on it and did not know anything about it. As far as I’m aware it has the larger injectors that come with the KB. I’ve verified that it does have the BAP, with what I can only assume is the stock fuel pump. MAF is housed in the aftermarket KB intake pipe assembly, located right below passenger headlamp. I’m not sure how big the stock housing is, but the entire intake system for this car is huge.
Something strange is definitely going on in the torque tables. I had to drive the car to work one day last week, I tried to set the cruise. Cruise engaged for a moment and then faulted out. Don’t remember the fault code but it gave me the little wrench light and scanner showed some type of torque error. Car drove like shit about approx. 50% pedal until I got to work and was able to reset the fault.
I used CC all the way home when I bought the car and it did fine. Haven’t tried to engage CC again since that day it faulted out.
Planning to mess with it more Saturday. Will update with results
My money is on bad spark plugs. Be sure to gap them at .028.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatwhite5.0
Just flashed in your file and took the car for a spin. The fuel trims weren't nearly as lean, but the car absolutely hated something about it. throttle response was slightly better, but as soon as I tried to give ANY real throttle the car sounded like fire crackers going off out of the tail pipe. I looked at the log files, and in my very unintelligent mind it looks like it is a torque related issue. IPC wheel torque error getting up in the 800s
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Changed the borderline knock spark table back to the original AS FOUND and left everything else alone.
Car seems to respond somewhat better and doesn't act a fool under heavier throttle.
Did not have time to drive for 20-30 minutes to see the cars reaction with all of the other changes made once its fully warm
The popping is from lack of spark and I'm sure that's what the car hated. I didn't have much to go off of from the other logs with the small channel list. No WOT pulls were with the new channel list. Were you still able to check the spark plugs? Bad plugs are a common issue a lot of people think their tune went bad when it was just bad plugs. The knock correction PID reads correctly on the edited tune, no explanation for that. Torque error is relative to spark timing. There's different ways you can approach torque errors, it just depends on what you have available. You can adjust spark tables to help get rid of torque errors, or you can adjust torque tables to get rid of them. On this gen mustang, they will always read errors, either positive or negative torque errors.
Adjusted Spark so make sure to watch knock correction and changed torque/inverse. Look into a wideband O2 sensor/gauge, they're one of the best tools to ensure your tune is safe. If you have the Pro you can datalog air/fuel ratio .
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I ended up rescaling the MAF table a couple times, small adjustments using STFTs. The car is really smooth now, feels a lot more powerful than before. Still has a very slight hiccup every now and then but hardly noticeable. Fuel trims hardly go further than maybe +/-6
Still pretty rich at idle and still kinda lean way up top
I’m waiting for my new plugs to come in right now, will change them this weekend probably . Planning to get a wideband early next year, I do not have pro features though so I will have to figure something out.
I have logged a few longer drives since the other day with some part throttle and WOT pulls. I will post them later when I have access to my laptop. Will also try out your second edit sometime later in the week when I drive the car again
By the way thank you so much for your help and patience. I’m still learning HPT. Doesn’t help that I started initially with GM gen3 controllers which seem much more straight forward. But I’m trying my best and I’m really glad you’re helping me
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These are a few longer logs I have taken since I touched on the MAF tables. Also the calibration that the car is currently running with;
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As I said, I will try out your second edit later in the week when I get the car out again. Thank you for all your input and help
Here's you one more of your recent file to test and gather info. Borderline, MBT, Torque/ Inverse, Driver Demand.
Attachment 115960
Compare the file itself and also the datalog of this to your other files so you can see what the changes are doing, you can feel difference but you have to read the difference.
Look at your Torque Channels, Torque error, MAF lbs, load, compare the same conditions. Find what makes your car runs better and move in that direction.