Hp tuners noob need help on timing

i just started tuning this 2004 gmc 5.3 and so far i tuned the maf tables by following a tutorial on youtube
i added 1deg of timing onto the high octane table and it started getting some KR on just one deg added
wondering what could i change so i dont get KR and how can i tune the transmission to go to first gear because my shifter cable is messed up and wont allow me to go park or 1st gear i would like to be able to press the tow haul button so it drops to first and do a 30 roll

TRUCK is mainly stock just added a intake
Transmission is a 4l60 4x4

any help is greatly appreciated Attachment 97674Attachment 97675

also get the transmission to shift firmly

Run 91 or 93 octane to see if the knock goes away. Run different commanded AFR's to see what works for keeping knock away. It's possible that 12.0 to 12.2 AFR is better than 12.5 afr commanded. A stock cam is probably only going to want 20-24 degrees of timing.

The high intake temps aren't helping a lot either. I doubt it's 100 degrees out where you live at this time of year so depending on what intake you have it's just sucking in hot engine bay air instead of air from the fender well like a stock intake does.

Make your shift times faster. Something like .300s instead of .400-.500. Add 5-10% to the line pressure below 300 ft lbs. That should make it firmer.

Here try these values for your High octane table, and for the low octane table subtract 6* from the entire thing. See if the knock goes away.

Attachment 97677

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Originally Posted by 5FDP

Run 91 or 93 octane to see if the knock goes away. Run different commanded AFR's to see what works for keeping knock away. It's possible that 12.0 to 12.2 AFR is better than 12.5 afr commanded. A stock cam is probably only going to want 20-24 degrees of timing.

The high intake temps aren't helping a lot either. I doubt it's 100 degrees out where you live at this time of year so depending on what intake you have it's just sucking in hot engine bay air instead of air from the fender well like a stock intake does.

Make your shift times faster. Something like .300s instead of .400-.500. Add 5-10% to the line pressure below 300 ft lbs. That should make it firmer.

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okay so update i got the KR to go away by filling up 93 i have added 3 degrees from the stock table to the whole chart before it started getting sum .5 kr on 2 or 3 cells wondering is it because of the torque management or the shifts that may be causing the KR
another note my friend bet me 100 dollars to race his truck its pretty much the same as mine but 2wd and wondering what else i could change to get it running a lil faster to get some easy cash lolAttachment 97678Attachment 97679

Check your exhaust for broken manifold studs or possible vacuum leak on the driver side bank. You have your bank 1 LTFT staying a lot more positive than your bank 2 and the LTFT is carrying over into PE making that bank add in more injector pulse.

Try making PE happen sooner. Do 80kpa enable, 80% enable torque, lower the pedal enable to 50%, lower the rpm delay to 1,500. You can remove some of the engine torque mngt and turn off the abuse mode by changing the settings there.


A 2WD truck is going to weight a decent amount less than a 4X4 truck, so it may still be a close race.

Are you at a high elevation? I would have expected more air flow, maybe there's a leak between MAF and TB.

Looking at it your map gets up high so I don't think you are at a high elevation.

Then looking at your bank to bank issue, from the O2 voltages I think its your bank 2 sensor thats bad causing the LTFT issue.

okay so raced this random truck i ran into and the truck takes of but after it shifts it feels like it just looses power n the other truck just passes me up truck looked stock 4 door and i also ended up adding another degree of timing execpt on the 2 cells that would have kr any way to improve the top end

I have the rear oxygen sensor unplugged and my widebad hooked up could that be the problem of why the ltft looks like that if not do u recomend turning it off

this is the last log idid before my computer died also ended up racing anothers friends nissan altima and got gapped from 30 lolAttachment 97688Attachment 97689
that was the tune i was running took off some TM and will be changing the the pe thanks alot for the help

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Originally Posted by LeonelSVT

I also ended up adding another degree of timing execpt on the 2 cells that would have kr, any way to improve the top end?

I have the rear oxygen sensor unplugged and my widebad hooked up could that be the problem of why the ltft looks like that if not do u recommend turning it off.

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Adding timing doesn't mean more power. It's a stock camshaft, you've fallen off the power curve above probably 24-25 degrees. Running 27-30 degrees of timing isn't going to gain you anything. You have spark adders that are adding to the high octane timing table as well, so maybe zero out the base gas spark correction so it's only going off the values set in the high/low octane tables.

You won't gain anything on the top end, the stock camshaft is basically done after 5,200rpm and you have a stock torque converter. The shift pulls the rpm way back to 3,300-3,400rpm because of that. An after market stall converter that would drop it back to 4,000-4,500rpm would do wonders with the right camshaft.

Or you could re-gear the truck to 4.10's or 4.56's, then it would rip but your top speed would completely tank because of your tall tires.


The longer you drive this, the worse your fuel trims are getting. Now your bank 1 long term fuel trims are +16.4 to +17+ which is not good.

Having the rear o2 sensor unhooked doesn't really matter but it'll likely cause a delayed reading or skewed reading on the wideband sensor if you still have the cat converter in place. Widebands should be installed pre-cats when possible.

In the end this is still a truck that is making like 245-250hp to the rear tire after all the drivetrain loss.

Gains on the top end would come from the leaner PE in that RPM range(12.8-12.9, .88 lambda, or 1.14 EQ), and spark advance if it doesn't knock. COT is usually a huge limit for this, removing them lets you get more aggressive.

One would think the OEMs wouldn't have missed 3* of advanced to get more power out of the engine, its a bit more complex than that to increase power. I don't condone how you are just adding to the entire table, add to the spot of the table 4400 RPM ato 6000RPM and .4 to .6 cylinder air mass. use the smooth feature to reduce the sharpness of the transitions.

A disconnected O2 usually stays flat at .45v with a little variation from the bias voltage. Yours is flat to begin, then slowly starts moving around as it heats up, its a bad B2S1 O2 sensor(the front one). I would replace it, and probably both as usually the other isn't too far behind from failing.

this is the current tune i have in the truck i put the timing back to stock adding only1* where is wot and wondering in what else could i change to make the tune better or any tips
Attachment 97796Attachment 97797 any help would be really helpful thanks

Work on your fueling a little more. The commanded is still not totally matching up to the actual. There are times when it's asking for 12.9 but the wideband is at 13.3 to 13.5 under wide open throttle.

You are better off commanding 12.2 to 12.5 on a NA engine like this, it's safer and it may stop the knock retard you are getting right now. Don't forget to reset the fuel trims with the scanner if you are using the wideband to log the wideband error against the commanded. The short term fuel trims need to be disabled as well for wideband tuning.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 5FDP

Work on your fueling a little more. The commanded is still not totally matching up to the actual. There are times when it's asking for 12.9 but the wideband is at 13.3 to 13.5 under wide open throttle.

You are better off commanding 12.2 to 12.5 on a NA engine like this, it's safer and it may stop the knock retard you are getting right now. Don't forget to reset the fuel trims with the scanner if you are using the wideband to log the wideband error against the commanded. The short term fuel trims need to be disabled as well for wideband tuning.

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sorry how would i reset the fuel trims and to disable the stft is it the stft open loop under ?

If you poke around the software long enough you will start seeing things.

Short term fuel trims is in the open loop tab. Change it to disabled. Now you have zero fuel trim control that will be changing the fueling on you. All fuel corrections are done with the MAF or VE.

The scanner has a special vehicles functions icon for pulling trouble codes and commanding various things. The fuel trim reset is in there.