5.3 Swap, not running right, Tune or Mechanical??

ok I have been searching here and other forums for a few weeks now. this is my 3rd LS swap the first too were straight forward with whole parts truck. This one is now my personal truck and I am having issues and just can not get things straightened out. I am new to HP tuners and tuning in general so forgive me on this if it something I'm over looking!


I will try to give as much information as possible right now to prevent back and forth questions!!


for starters the truck is a 1953 Ford f500, sitting on a 1997 C2500 (Silverado) frame that has been 6in "Z" cut (to lower cab on stock 8600GVW suspension) with a 14 bolt diff.
now the motor is a 2003 or 2004 (I cant remember exactly) it came from a customer at my friends repair shop, Tahoe owner said it was over heating and wanted the motor swapped from his wife's wrecked 2002 avalanche, all over the radiator being clogged up. So I took the 5.3 from the Tahoe and the harness and PCM from the avalanche.... the trans is a 4L80e I purchased a year ago before this project was even thought about, I was to say its a 2001 (defiantly newer then 97+ with the front and rear cooling lines) and was told it was in great working order came with convertor too...
fuel tank is from a 1991 jeep YJ and I used the stock 1997 vortec 350 fuel pump and put it in the jeep tank (meets fuel required specs). running regulated filter for 2000 corvette

recap of important stuff:
2003-2004 5.3L (drove Tahoe, I know the motors good)
2001 4L80e
2002 Harness & PCM
1997 Vortec 350 fuel pump
2000 Fuel Filter / regulator

OK! so due to the cab clearances of the build I could not fit the stock truck manifold... friend-of a friends-cousins-best friends-roommate deal landed me one of those MID-length fabricated intakes and 102mm throttle body for $100 brand new, didn't fit in his LS1 powered Mazda RX7. I haven't heard great things about the intake and TB but it gave me the clearance I needed and for the price I couldn't pass is up. the added benefit was not having to change the accessories ether so I was cost savings all around!! so with the intake that's why I ran the non return fuel setup...


now the issue... the truck is up and running.. kind of. it wont move.
there was issues at first with clogged injectors (they came from the wrecked and been sitting 2002 avalanche) and coils not firing.
so I stole the injectors and coils off my good running 2002 4.8L that's in my Jeep Wrangler.
after weeks of banging my head I adapted the stock TB onto the intake (after local tune shop told me I might be a cheap TB and 102 is kind of to big for a bone stock 5.3) so I agreed and put the stock one on. now with the stock TB reving it I was hitting 8* knock retard in EVERY CELL above 50kPa! so frustrated I let it sit a few days. since then I have removed ALL torque management, brought rev limit to 600, and turned off all A/C stuff (don't have A/C anyway) and with ease of throttle and it will rev nice with NO knock (I don't get it one bit but hey whatever), a quick 0 to 100 flooring it, it will slug then rev, if you bounce it a few times you can almost stall it, it will pop threw the exhaust then rev. now put the truck in gear and floor it, it wont go anywhere! now here where im really confused, why wont this thing move, I can throw it in gear and ease on throttle to get it in a out of the shop, but theres a 3in bump at the door way and I have to floor it and it takes almost 2-3 seconds to get the power to move over the bump (this has been a issue since day one of running). also running the MAF sensor from the 2002 4.8 in my jeep cause again, i know it to be a good working one. i have also did a crank relearn and it works, got a code miss on Cyl 1 when i unplugged the spark plug wire...


I know the VE table is not gonna match the intake manifold, but it should still run! ive also notice my o2 and fuel trims are all over the place, almost like im monitoring 2 different 4cyl engines, they never match each other!!

i have already smoked the motor for vacuum leaks, and sprayed carb cleaner everywhere while running, 100% no intake leaks...
checked for exhaust leaks too, none at all
the tail pipe of the exhaust is so black its worse then a old cummins with the fuel cranked up...


any input would be amazing!!

first time attaching file in a post so i hope this works but here is my tune file, my log file, my scanner layout, and a exported .cvs of my log!
i hope that's everything anyone will need, if not please let me know how to give more info!!

I am also a new tuner so you can take this for what it is, the part where you said it was like the O2s where on different engines make me think they are backwards.

Thought about that last night. Unplugged bank 2 while logging and bank 2 flat lined at 450mv on the scanner...

the tune file is tuner locked so without seeing the tune data we cant really offer any help for you. either have the tuner unlock it or flash back to factory and build the tune from square one
if you have injectors and coils from a 4.8 and put them on the 5.3 your going to run into issues with the data for the injectors and spark dwell which in turn wont have the vehicle running proper at all and would cause driveability issues as well due to different flow rates,offsets for the injectors and coils...etc...
i don't think you have a vacuum leak because the trims stay around the 8-16% lean instead of maxing out at 30% so until you can verify that your data is correct for the injectors and coils your probably not going to get it running right
your also using a maf from the 4.8 so are the part numbers the same between the mafs because if not the scale for the iat wont be correct either but off by how much im not sure so it might not make that big of a difference

coils are interchangeable between the trucks, ive had these 2 racks on 3 different motors, the injectors are the same as well I even copied the injector data over from the tune file that these injectors came from. and yes the MAF is the same part number, I swapped it with another one I have just to rule this out as well...
as for the tuner lock, I have it set to "NO" so ill just checked it again ill re-upload the tune again

SORRY!!! I figured it out THIS is the unlocked file!!!!

ok as long as the data is correct because if they weren't you'd just be going in circles you know.
ok so for starters you need to get the fuel trims inline at idle - your running lean - so pick a mode maf only or ve only and get the trims in line - you cant have a blend tune maf/ve together because you'll get invalid data since it uses both maf/ve for fueling - either tune by fuel trims or by wideband either way works fine except for wot a wideband is required for that - id say just put it maf only mode for starters and for quickness and add 10%(x1.1) to the whole chart and see if the trims get in line better. only after you get the trims in line a little better can you start tuning idle airflow and since you have a different intake and different setup you'll probably have to alter the braf
for the idle airflow i would add 2.0 g/s to the base running airflow to start - the almost dying is telling me not enough air - if you start getting a hanging rpm then you have too much idle air
change your pe enrichment rate - you have it set at 0? change that to at least .5000 because itll take forever for you car to enrich the fuel if at all im not sure ive never used anything under 1.0
you can also lean out your pe ratio 1.250 is a little rich for a n/a set up - i usually aim for a 12.5 (1.176)

edit: to figure a pe ratio you take stoich and divide it by the afr ... 14.7/11.76=1.250 for an example

Ok I will work on that, can you point me to where I can learn how to set MAF only??

updated above post...
I can tell you how. For maf only set dynamic airflow - high rpm disable to 200 from 4000 and leave the hyst alone. So anything over 200 rpm it will use maf only for fueling calculations
For ve/Speed density you would want to set dynamic airflow - high rpm disable to 8000 and leave the hyst alone. So it will only use the ve chart for fueling and you also need to fail the maf which you do by going under engine diag/airflow and set the maf freq fail to 0hz along with setting dtcs p0101-p0103 to mil on first error (uncheck the ses enable box so the light doesn't pop on - unless you don't care - i leave it enabled so i know that the maf is failed) - you are still on a 1 bar os so when you set it in ve mode the ecu will default to the low octane spark chart so for ve mode only you will need to copy the high octane to the low octane - 2 bar os will not default to the low octane spark chart

You are awesome. I will do this in the morning!! So from there in maf only mode. What do I attack first with trying to make it drive?