DBC to DBW

I am finishing up a new rig and am trying to verify that I am going in the right direction here.

The motor is a 99 lq4 that I built into a 408. I ran it in my old rig with a tbss intake and a WARR DBC TB. In the new rig its going in, it is in a mid engine position so I converted it to DBW instead of trying to run a 10 plus foot long throttle cable. I picked up a complete harness, tac, pedal and PCM from a 03 truck. I have the harness all cut down and everything routed and hooked up. Right now it still has the tune in the PCM that it came with.

My main question right now is can I just dump my old tune in it and fire it off, or is there specific things I need to do to it before trying to start it? I am not sure what will be changed or modified with the older tune into the newer PCM, and if it will effect the way the DBW operates, or if it should just fire up and run like it used too. Everything I am finding is about going the other way....

I attached the tune from the old rig and the initial read of the new PCM.

I think you can open both files using the compare feature and swap the needed data over to the new pcm, I'm no expert on this though.

you can take all your settings using the compare method mentioned.
if i remember correctly the dbw controls the blade angle for idle airflow adjustments you may have to revisit idle controls and fueling. should give you a good start as long as the data is the same.

Thank you.

That's what I was thinking and started doing at work last night, but I wasn't sure if there were setting I shouldn't change that is needed by the DBW setup or not. Ill keep going through it and see if there is anything I come across that doesn't fell right. New starter will be in tomorrow and I'm hoping to try and fire it off tomorrow afternoon/evening.

if the throttle body is stock then dont change any of the drive by wire throttle body size and control tables. leave them stock from the factory dbw ecu calibration.
think about it like this: there are mechanical calibration settings and operational calibration settings.
mechanical settings are the ones that define mechanical components such as diameter or area of passages, engine size, flow characteristics...etc
operational settings are the ones that define the airflow or volumetric efficiency model such as airflow per step position, ve tables, ignition.....etc

you want to keep whatever data is known for your mechanical components, so as mentioned as an example you would keep the stock settings that define the throttle body.
the things to transfer would be the tables you have calibrated to define efficiency of the engine as an air pump and the base commanded values such as pe settings, ignition advance, traction control, ve and maf models, BRAF values.

hopefully that helps you pick and choose which information to bring over from your dbc tune.

ok, I need some help here. I got the tune swapped over and got it running but I had no throttle control, pedal does nothing. With key on the TB would cycle though. Chased everything out and no wire issues. Picked up a 3 bolt TB and tried it without the adapter cable, nothing. Borrowed a TAC and pedal from a buddy in the middle of a build, plug his pedal in and off she goes. Running like a raped ape and full throttle response. So I ordered a new TPS sensor for my pedal. Put it on a few min ago and nothing, no throttle response. Hook his pedal back up and it works awesome. What in the hell is going on here..........................................



Only difference between the two is his is an adjustable and mine is not, but from everything I can find, the sensor is the same. Same year truck application from what we both know of the origin of the parts.

did you put a dvm on the tps signals and take readings at 0 and 100% position? compare both pedals

I ran out of time before I had to go to work, working 12 hour night shifts through tonight.

I tested mine the other day using numbers that google came up with for the voltages and resistances. It wasn't exact matching numbers, but it was close enough I could chock up the difference to a difference in meters. I'll take readings on all three of them tomorrow afternoon after I get up.

ok, here are the readings from all 3 sensors. The old and new were read mounted on my pedal, the borrowed one was mounted on the other pedal.

...............................NEW................ ...OLD..............Borrowed

APP 1, Pins G-F
Idle..........................4.08................ ...5.58................5.50
FT............................2.99................ ...3.39................4.18

APP 2, Pins C-D
Idle..........................3.56................ .4.20................3.96
FT............................1.88................ .2.08................2.80

I got it. The mechanical stop was letting it go back to far and faulting out. Started swapping sensors around and all 3 worked on his, but not mine. Used my old sensor on his to measure resistance on his at rest, put it on mine and shimmed it with zip ties to read the same. Plugged it in and it worked. Made a perminate shim for it and now it is working perfect.

nice work