L83 bolt ons looking for guidance

Hey there everyone new to the hp tuners world looking to learn as much as possible intend on doing one on one or classes soon. Any help is appreciated!!

Currently working on dialing in all my work thus far on my 2018 Silverado 2wd L83 A6 with 52k.

Mod list:
-long tubes/y (no cats)->carven bullet->factory resonator and tail pipe. (valve removed)
-Airaid MIT w/K&N/airbox baffle removed
-ACDelco pro wires with new plugs
-L86 throttle body and intake manifold with correct L86 vac hose
-Katech 174 thermostat.

I went in disabled DOD, DCTS for the rear o2?s, raised rev limiter in p/n, adjust speedo (35? tires). It?s running fine it?s rough at idle subtle if raise the idle to 600-630 it smoothes out. My b2s1 o2 is pegged on the max sensors bad or I crossed the one of the wires when I made the extension getting on that as we speak. The B1s1 is reading erratic up down

I?m basically look to clean up and adjust my throttle response/AFR/spark.

Dialing in your MAF and VVE sounds like a necessity with your mods. It should result in much smoother and predictable response.

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...ation-for-gen4

Regarding throttle response, read through this thread:

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...in-limit-table

Pay attention to what IARLLC has to say about VVT over-retard/egr. Take his advice, or, just zero the whole VVT table under 2800 RPM. Be sure to accordingly zero/reduce the affected areas in the VCP Spark table too.

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Originally Posted by lucas287

Dialing in your MAF and VVE sounds like a necessity with your mods. It should result in much smoother and predictable response.

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...ation-for-gen4

Regarding throttle response, read through this thread:

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...in-limit-table

Pay attention to what IARLLC has to say about VVT over-retard/egr. Take his advice, or, just zero the whole VVT table under 2800 RPM. Be sure to accordingly zero/reduce the affected areas in the VCP Spark table too.

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Thanks for the links still taking in GEN 5 platform. Fixed the o2 sensor in B2 just happen to be connected, but no fully seated enough that clip was locked so I put a small zip tie around it for safe measure now I can see both working in scanner Ill post a log file ASAP. Update: In gear readings are pretty steady, but idle is where it starts the erratic Up/down in AFR/Spark+.

Just for the sake understanding in the most basic of explanations. Given mass air values and Intake volume increased the engine torque management is hunting suitable fuel/spark to adapt/learn within ranges which are limited to relative boundaries set per stock tune calibrations and fail safes?

Excellent discussion on tuning so far but, you didn't mention how the header collectors, exhaust went together? Flanges, clamps, weld? Did you happen to get any scans prior to the header/exhaust stuff? Can't fix an exhaust leak with a tune. Old school run your hands around any of the joints within 12" of an upstream narrow band 02. Slightest detection by your hand, yah, fun!

log of idle

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Originally Posted by A_Texas90

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Just for the sake understanding in the most basic of explanations. Given mass air values and Intake volume increased the engine torque management is hunting suitable fuel/spark to adapt/learn within ranges which are limited to relative boundaries set per stock tune calibrations and fail safes?[/QUOTE]

In short, yes. With enough time, it would probably sort itself out for all closed loop operation. open loop would never adjust as there aren't any feedback loops for the ECU.

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Originally Posted by lucas287

Just for the sake understanding in the most basic of explanations. Given mass air values and Intake volume increased the engine torque management is hunting suitable fuel/spark to adapt/learn within ranges which are limited to relative boundaries set per stock tune calibrations and fail safes?

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In short, yes. With enough time, it would probably sort itself out for all closed loop operation. open loop would never adjust as there aren't any feedback loops for the ECU.[/QUOTE]
What operations/or adjustments fall under open/closed loop? I learn in things ass backwards forgive me lol.

Made some adjustments engine torque mgmt>drive demand>Desired torque>map A making increases after 64%

Peak engine torque I increase after 2,000 rpm

I?m pleased with the power curve is handsome

Also tried Idle adjustments based on torque (hunting is unaffected by if I go up or down speed control reserve or raise or raise the limit offset accordingly. Also tried increases in external load.

As far as the goes hunting none of these

I was trying to Follow IlarcS advice Last night tried the applying his recommendations on low risk stuff VCP adjustments did that I heard a audible difference in exhaust note no improvement in the hunt.

The first link is probably going to be the secret based on my manifold swap. I have ADHD understanding conversions and critical math comes slow with time or further explanation Lol :bigshock:

I started over from my stock tune file something wasn't adding up with the idle. So far the idle in the beginning wasn't cold or warm even after it settled without the erratic hunting. It raining today can't really get WOT pulls, but tell me what you think about the idle at the very end. Anything input would be great.

working on erg/vcp.

I think my previous fan settings may have cause the issue considering ECT swinging constantly isn't preferable. or it was something else I did unknowingly.:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by chumba

Excellent discussion on tuning so far but, you didn't mention how the header collectors, exhaust went together? Flanges, clamps, weld? Did you happen to get any scans prior to the header/exhaust stuff? Can't fix an exhaust leak with a tune. Old school run your hands around any of the joints within 12" of an upstream narrow band 02. Slightest detection by your hand, yah, fun!

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These motors are extremely sensitive to reversion it just took the a bump in the road it would run rough like limp mode status it was a daily battle I would have been chasing dragon tuning. With that said I had it all welded other then the clamp on the exit of the y which ain?t going anywhere or leaking I went ape it was hard to get on, removed ball flange, new flex joint replace intermediate section, corrected the geometry/hangers. Ialways hated clamps the header/y options are ridiculous the speed engineering headers have major flaws I wasn?t spending $1,600-2. Having quality flanges weld on the headers to be able pull the motor for the cam and will have the wideband bung done then as well. I checked regularly no leaks at the heads and I Adelco OE layered crush gaskets.

Dude! You did a great job, and thank you for sharing how you did it all! It's worthy of respect. I hope I will one day decide to do something similar with my old Jeep, but for now, I think it's better not to do it. I inherited the car from my grandfather, and it's too old, so so far I've only replaced some fasteners, and I'm afraid to do anything so as not to break something important. I think when the car finally looks like a pile of metal, I will try to restore it using, among other things, your advice.