Whether 80e or 60e, the use of a 9.5" Lockup converter and OEM style Flexplate is ideal. I used and recommend the tightest, lowest stall (around 2800rpm is minimum from Yank)
It will be a large improvement over OEM and free up rotating weight which will improve cruise economy. Overall the vehicle mileage will increase from the converter 9.5".
power...
That Power does not come from a cam. It comes from forced induction. Trying to squeeze a low stall, daily driver for power using a large camshaft is the worst of both worlds.
The correct camshaft for a daily driver is low lift to preserve valvetrain components and slow ramp rates to emphasize high rpm control of valves. And enough duration to get the job done...
duration is to match vehicle weight/stall/gear/tire...
max rpm and time spent at/near max rpm
For: high weight, low stall, numerically low gear, large diameter tire, The resulting range will be: low-medium RPM range for driving, so duration must be kept to that range (usually duration less than
[email protected]" with 212-216 typical).
For example in 02' LM7 862 head 5.3L application with 216/
[email protected]" peak engine torque (VE curve) is near 5000rpm which causes power to climb to 80mph in 1:1 gear (dyno light loading) and level off at 80mph staying somewhat flat all the way through 120mph, which is the range 4400-6200rpm [1:1->3.54:1->27.4"Tire].
Because of the need for high MPH in forced induction, numerically lower gearing must be used which demands more from the engine to move the vehicle at low speeds similarly.
A Race car doesn't care because it will not be run at low RPM frequently. A daily driver leaves alot of stoplights without going WOT.
A drag race car can use 5000stall and a cam to peak numbers 6000 7000 8000rpm making max power.