Printable View
Looking for normal driving-around logs of a stock LSA. Seems the only ones I've seen posted here are ones that are having problems after making lots of changes, just looking for a normal one showing what they look like when nothing's wrong. Prefer stock or close to stock, not the 1,000+ HP crazy stuff.
Tuned stock 11 ctsv that I did years ago.
Sorry can't help more. In my early years I didn't save log files like I do now for final drives and tunes and what not. Then in my really early years I used SCT, so most of the LSA stuff is in it and even then I don't think I saved the logs. Then like you said I rarely see a stock car to tune anymore unless it's a truck.
Thanks!
Well that's not as brutal down low as I was imagining. I'm collecting LSA parts and pondering on ways to protect a 60E from going prompt critical.
Yeah, stock the lsa's didn't make a whole lot of boost. I typically got them to put down somewhere around 570 to 590 to the tires with cold air and a tune - if memory serves. Once you got over 600rwhp they needed injectors which was pretty much necessary with the first pulley.
I've tuned some crate setups that "I think" were running 65E's behind them in older 3000lb cars - don't know how long they lasted...
Well I have no problem limiting throttle vs RPM in like the under-4000 range if I have to if it helps keep the trans alive. I am also a fan of trans TM, while lots of people turn that off first thing. This is all stock appearing, street driven, no sticky tires, no race tracks. Aiming for something like GM would have done if they'd built a blown 5.3.
Yes, lame, compared to the stuff with a crank pulley so big the engine has to be raised up in the frame to keep it from hitting the ground... not that kind of goals here.
Funny enough I'm actually tuning one of those right now except it has a 6speed (5.3 with a lsa blower mounted) - which would be a lot better for you if you wanted to go that route - the 6sp part that is. He's running 10psi with a pulley change. Also has headers, cam and 1050 injectors.
6-speed + E40 is allegedly possible, but I'll just do a mostly stock 4L80E before I go through all that.
edit: and definitely not wasting money on a built 60E-based anything.
You'll probably need gears to make the 80 take off good. Other than that doable... His truck is using an E38 and I'm running the 2bar OS with it. It's a 10 model.
Torque from a PD blower will make it take off good enough with a 80E. :o Already has 3.73 gear & slightly shorter than stock tires. It is f-ing heavy as a heavy thing though.
Then all I have to worry about is the 8.6 axle. Conveniently, the 14-bolt TBSS axle is a direct swap. I'm really not trying to turn the daily driver into a race truck, just want to balance 'add blower' with 'not break stuff'.
I wouldn't think twice about 500-600 rwhp with a good 4l60-70.
We do some serious trailblazer SS's with built 4l70's.
Yeah, but what about a stock 4L60E, in good condition? Assuming Shift TM is applied generously, has a good cooler, properly maintained, not taking it over 6K (or even 5800) in 1st gear like an idiot, etc.
I know they can be built to handle it but that costs a lot of money, more money than swapping in a basically stock 4L80 that'll handle the same or more power and without the inherent limitations of the 60E design (super-deep first gear and the huge drop between 1st-2nd makes things really hard on the band and that reverse drum).
meh run it until it fails?
That's my plan, just hoping I can twiddle things enough to keep it alive.
I haven't tried this with it N/A yet, but something like this?
Attachment 128862
I do know that Max TQ RPM vs Gear is not the place to do it, that only pulls timing and that's not good for extended periods. Reasons for concern about too much low-end is the 5.3 has 1 point higher compression and a much tighter cam compared to the Real LSA, I think it will still make more low end torque than the Real LSA at the same engine/blower speed (boost level will be quite different and not a good indicator).
this was on my ctsv lsa when it was stock tune and pulley no mods besides being straight piped
My advice would be to keep TM at stock or 50% of stock. Keep the shift timing LOW. and keep the shifts positive, quick, and not tire barking/harsh.Quote:
Originally Posted by blindsquirrel
Oh also... so many 4l60-70's will start to slip with just a half quart low. It really needs to be at the top of the MAX hot line.
Currently:
Attachment 128896
Spark ultimately dropped to -19* there, Time of Latest 1-2 consistently shows 0.300s (commanding a flat 0.250s).
You'll probably want shift time a little less than that - keep in mind the longer the timings cut, the harder it'll hit when it comes back especially with a pd blower. You'll need to blend your main timing table into how you have the trans shifting so it doesn't "hurt" so much. It's better if it can cut throttle like the 6speeds do, but you're limited on what you can do. You're also going to want to increase the torque model - airmass side - to increase line pressure a little down lower to help hold and reduce slip. I've already brought a couple of transmissions back from near death due to previous tuners screwing things up because of low reported torque. Doesn't take much - 20 or 30 makes a big difference. Do that from 1200 rpms up.
Trans won't make the shift any quicker than 0.300s no matter how low I drop the commanded. Seems about normal for a stock unit from other ones I've seen; the 6L's will shift much much quicker, right? I had the shift times all zeroed out for a while but it doesn't like that, it does something weird to the adaptives over time and it ends up dragging the shift out to ~1 second with a real bad double-bump - it also did that stock before anything was changed in the tune. It will shift firm if I turn down the TM but I like the trans living as long as possible much more than I like firm shifts.
No torque coefficient junk here, this is basically just a Gen 3 in a Gen 4-style box.
Current mess of a tune:
Attachment 128903
(ignore any of the Boost tables, still N/A, those are just placeholders)
In that case try lowering your force motor current a touch in the lower torque settings. That'll pretty much do the same thing as increasing line and hold pressure.
Yes 6speeds can shift super fast even without decreasing shift time settings or increasing pressures. Requires a lot of tuning though.