Originally Posted by
cobaltssoverbooster
you dont need to change the injector disable table to only 15's in the right column. This was an old test to get around lack of features and table understandings. just leave it stock. If you run 91 or 94, you wont have to make a tune for each to correct fuel. If you want max timing well yeah, the 94 tune will allow slightly more ignition than 91. Otherwise the big player for fuel offsets is ethanol content. We can talk about it if you decide to try that in the future.
The LNF is known for tip in knock. The Solstice floating clutch also causes a ton of KR related issues. Tip in is defined as a detonation event caused by abrupt cylinder pressure change, typically caused by moving the throttle aggressively. If your familiar with high level Calculus you know all about time zero analysis. Tip in is the related to the event caused by moving the accelerator position to a new position from any point in time you call time zero. If at time zero you went from 30% tps to 50% tps, the effect caused by this move would be a tip in effect. Lots of tables have to be just right to eliminate it completely. You will struggle but learn tons from trying to eliminate it. Don't let this get you down.
Setup a baseline table for optimum spark. Copy a main spark table. Paste it into one of the optimum spark tables. Select all of the cells in the new optimum spark table. At the top of the table there is an empty white box with math symbols to the left of it. Enter a 5 in the white box and select the plus icon. Every value will now be 5 units larger. Copy this data and paste it into the remaining optimum spark tables. Leave this alone until you sort out the fuel, boost, and ignition. The urgency can cause issues that mask effects of changes in other tables. The scientific method tells us to change one thing and see what happens as a result. Right now your changing 5 things and this makes it impossible to really see which value change is causing the behavior changes you feel or record with the logger.
Let's lay this out in a way to maximize your learning.
1) Main ignition table. Whatever it is at now, stock or stock smoothed, just leave it alone. Do the above correction to the optimum spark and then leave that alone as well.
2) Focus strictly on calibration of the MAF. Make sure your trims report ?5-8%. Keep the table smooth. After the maf curve is calibrated do the same to the maf 2D base.
3) Now play with the airload demand table and request a little bit of boost in the high load columns. If suggest a target of 20 psi for training and longevity. I read the boost in kpa so that would be roughly 240 kpa on the boost sensor. This is a health spot for a OEM KO4 turbocharger. Once you creep towards 23 psi you start to loose longevity. I ran mine non-stop at 23-24 psi and it turned my turbo into a scheduled replacement item. If you can afford that then cool. You are the tuner here so target larger values at your own risk.
3.1) You just requested more air, so that means your maf cals are going to be effected. While you increase airload, make sure you are revisiting step 2 and keeping that fuel in check. Target PE under boost will be .86-.87 lambda for great starting point.
4) Once you get the boost settled along with the fuel, start to add 1 degree of ignition, per test, into your advance table. Monitor for knock activity on every test. If you make an increase and see knock activity in a cell show up, remove 1.5* and try again. It should be gone, if not remove a little more until it's gone. Keep the ignition map smooth just like the fuel tables before. If you have a low cell surrounded by higher cells, blend the higher ones into the low cell and see if the low cell recovers some.
5) Play with the airload around the idle and midrange areas. You can see how it affects your throttle response. It will also affect your idle stability. Knowing now what you have learned in the prior steps, use what you know to stabilize the idle and modify the behavior in the mid range to get your desired pedal response feeling. Don't drive the airload up to high in the midrange or you can start boosting in cruise.
6) Now play with the cam positions. Again, this will change the cylinder pressure and dynamic airflow so it's going to affect all the prior changes, but its no big deal for you now because you already know how to fix it.
7) Finally, i would play with torque demand settings. Take it easy here. Big changes can really unsettle things. At this point it will be easier to understand how this affects performance. The stuff mentioned prior is like 90-95% of your tune. Torque demand just polishes it up.
8) If you plan on going big turbo, spend some time at the end learning about the wastegate PID settings. These settings will make or break a large turbo setup. Easier and safer to learn the effects on the OEM turbo while you still have it.