4L80E swapped 06 vortec max disappointment

Thanks for all the input guys.. made a couple changes and drove the truck a bit more seems reasonable performance wise.
Stepping into it on an on ramp will bake the tires, but still won?t do it from a dig..aside from a little chirp lol.
Next step will be stepping down a tire size (265 70 to a 265 65 18 ) and throw a converter, cam, and 799 heads when funds allow. I?ll put the minor shortcomings of the 80e rest and just be happy with it so long as it pulls my travel trailer nicely.. and I don?t see a reason why it wouldn?t
Thanks

Back from the dead here guys

I?ve put on about 20,000 miles since my conversion and overall I have been pretty happy with it.
I?ve changed my tire size to 235 80 17 and it?s helped the sluggish feeling quite a bit.

My torque converter shit the bed (or so I think, gotten a p0894 code and trans has been running hot)
So I bit the bullet and ordered a precision industries 10.5? converter. It?s a triple disc with bile t front and 2800 stall. I also ordered a btr stage 3 v2 low lift truck cam. That will get installed in the winter months.

I?m pretty pumped for the new converter but I was going to ask .. should I be going into my tune to change anything to suit the new converter? I?ll be getting a dyno tune after new cam and tbss intake but wanted to see what everyone?s thoughts were. Would love to have someone look over my tune and make sure everything is decent thanks guys n gals

Attachment 92841

I recommend using the bluecat trans tool and putting your settings for your previous setup in to get some numbers. Save them in their own tune file then do the exact same thing for the new converter. If the new converter makes a huge change over what you have then give the new bluecat suggestions a try.

ok ill look into that, thanks for your advice.
I played with my tune some and changed up quite a few things like PWM duty cycle and such. gonna upload it when im home and see if it makes a difference. will try the bluecat afterward and its looking like a new valve body if that doesn't fix it.
if anyone is willing to look into my tune that would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!Attachment 92901

I would really think about going with the BTR Stage 2 cam, the Stage 3 will loose torque vs the 2 on the low end.

Russ Kemp

I think the stage 3 cam should do well just based on the lobe separation angles of the v2 cams (110* compared to previous 113+3* of v1 cams) and I thought I seen it mentioned that although they do lose a bit down low they will make more average torque.. my truck has 4.10s and 32? tires. With my 2800 stall I think the cam will be a nice match.. a lot of my towing time is spent at 3,000rpm anyhow.

I drove the truck today with the new converter and with my tweaks in my new file it really moves out well. Definately woke the lazy 80e up. Can?t wait for cam time

I was going to ask about TC. I swapped a 6 into a square body with an 80 on 33s 3.73 and a mild. As compared to my 05 deanli, it feels... not so good. This truck is going to be a daily and tow a 5th wheel. So my question is, would a 2k stall fit my application better ya think?

I belive the stock 2500hd converter is around 2500-2600 stall, I like my 2800 stall but if I were to do it again I think I would go higher ..3200 or so, especially if your considering a cam at all in the future.
Sorry for the late reply I?m not on here much

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brandon_

I was going to ask about TC. I swapped a 6 into a square body with an 80 on 33s 3.73 and a mild. As compared to my 05 deanli, it feels... not so good. This truck is going to be a daily and tow a 5th wheel. So my question is, would a 2k stall fit my application better ya think?

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Whats a 6? You swapped a 6-speed? I dont understand that

In general with converters, I use the tightest stall possible for max fuel economy. I only build daily drivers for myself so it's just been a habit.

the lowest stall Yank makes in 9.5" is 2800, so still up there. Stall is partially based on torque, will be affected by weight and gearing as well.
So it's best to ask the converter manufacturer in general for their opinion.

In my application, 3000lbs (lightweight) 4l80e, I used the 9.5" 2800 yank of course, with just 3.5:1 rear gear and a mild cam 212~ duration @ .050 low lift,
It works absolutely beautifully in my opinion. The mild cam and smallish turbo work well with the difficult gearing(numerically low in both trans and rear) in the light car against such a tight converter. The engine can build some boost and not blow the tires off too bad. If it had any more converter it would just spin the tires, plenty of power 500-600rwhp is usable and hookable using street tires if you keep the torque in check using little tricks like tight converters and good gear ratios. For daily drivers you want the tightness because it also helps keep fluid temps down and conserves fuel.

My dealings with 4L80E is that if you use the factory torque converter, its going to be a dog. That converter is really heavy. But for towing with a Turbo LQ4, its about perfect.
For "Fuel Economy" look at locking the TC at light throttle in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Ive done this on several builds and it works really good. Just takes awhile getting the lockup at the right speed so it doesn't bog bad. Ive found that TC Slip less than 400-500 rpms is about comfortable place to lock it. More Slip and it bogs and doesn't feel good.
Testing this on my 2500HD now.

Just going to a lighter converter makes all the difference if you want some performance.
Im using the cheapest circle D 4L80E converter that looks like a 4L60E converter and brake stalls to 2500 in my 91 C1500 turbo 5.3

imo the factory 4l80e converter is too heavy for any performance application

a lighter converter will save fuel because... its lighter. Get the lightest wheels, the lightest converter, the lowest stall, aluminum ds, use an appropriate rear gear size/axle. With a mild (212~) cam and turbo you got 600~rwhp on 93 octane easily in any truck V8 made after 2003
but it needs the converter most of all. Thats the heartbeat, the most important part

IMHO I would not lock in 2nd and 3rd generally because it will work the converter clutch more and that is a clutch you are trying to save as much as possible.
If you have exceptionally long drawn out 2nd and 3rd gears then maybe you could address that instead of locking the clutch more often, as it would return similar or better economy results and save the converter clutch wear.
Now you can lock in 2nd and keep it locked to 4th, but that will present interesting forces/shocking to the transmission's internals and while I am not a trans expert I think they could do without the shock of a or several shiftlocks. I guess it depends how squishy the drivetrain is, like maybe with huge tires and the 4l80e it's negligible.

I'm an economy aficionado, I've brought my 4l80e somewhere in the 22's to 23mph highway and shooting for 25 still think it's possible. But I am also a mechanically conservative minded, I won't waste a part such as a clutch unless absolutely necessary for some vital purpose. The trans has clutches inside, so either way you are turning a friction material into dust

magic dust. who let the dust out? When they ask me about changing their 150k mile trans fluid I've decided to start saying "change around half of it" rofl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 06vortecmax

I think the stage 3 cam should do well just based on the lobe separation angles of the v2 cams (110* compared to previous 113+3* of v1 cams) and I thought I seen it mentioned that although they do lose a bit down low they will make more average torque.. my truck has 4.10s and 32? tires. With my 2800 stall I think the cam will be a nice match.. a lot of my towing time is spent at 3,000rpm anyhow.

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i really think your missing the boat on this, the smaller cam is going to make more torque, (after all this is your major complaint). the stage 3 is going to loose a ton of torque. 3000 rpms is the bottom of the power band, thats where it starts. it wont be happy there. the stage 2 is a much better fit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kingtal0n

imo the factory 4l80e converter is too heavy for any performance application

a lighter converter will save fuel because... its lighter. Get the lightest wheels, the lightest converter, the lowest stall, aluminum ds, use an appropriate rear gear size/axle. With a mild (212~) cam and turbo you got 600~rwhp on 93 octane easily in any truck V8 made after 2003
but it needs the converter most of all. Thats the heartbeat, the most important part

IMHO I would not lock in 2nd and 3rd generally because it will work the converter clutch more and that is a clutch you are trying to save as much as possible.
If you have exceptionally long drawn out 2nd and 3rd gears then maybe you could address that instead of locking the clutch more often, as it would return similar or better economy results and save the converter clutch wear.
Now you can lock in 2nd and keep it locked to 4th, but that will present interesting forces/shocking to the transmission's internals and while I am not a trans expert I think they could do without the shock of a or several shiftlocks. I guess it depends how squishy the drivetrain is, like maybe with huge tires and the 4l80e it's negligible.

I'm an economy aficionado, I've brought my 4l80e somewhere in the 22's to 23mph highway and shooting for 25 still think it's possible. But I am also a mechanically conservative minded, I won't waste a part such as a clutch unless absolutely necessary for some vital purpose. The trans has clutches inside, so either way you are turning a friction material into dust

magic dust. who let the dust out? When they ask me about changing their 150k mile trans fluid I've decided to start saying "change around half of it" rofl

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I was able to go low 12s with the factory 80E converter in a 5100# truck, Turbo LQ4. But i used it for towing more than i did for "Racing".
On the longer trips out of state it would average 23-24mpg with 93octane so it was a well balanced setup. Never could tweak the tune enough to get it up to 25mpg but i tried a lot for several years.

With the TC locking in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th isnt any worse than a stock 4L80E tune that unlocks the TC every time you go down a hill tho. I don't mind wasting a $100 TC Clutch for testing. So far its been great. Plus only locking the TC with less than 300-400rpm slip seems to be a sweet spot. I tried locking it up around 600 rpms and didnt like how it did.