codename Bil Doe's LNF tune (road race and street use) and explanation

I spent nearly a year in 2014 testing the tables of the LNF Bosch ecu to figure out what it all did. GM's new version is much more user friendly. Due to life's events I am no longer racing the Solstice. It belongs to a good friend of mine now. I am not on here often because I've been endurance racing Hondas the past couple years. I thought I would post my tunes as I did a lot of things differently than most others. There are some excellent tuners and friends on here who know more than me and have their different ways which are just as good. This is what I have found and the route I took through my testing.

My tunes have been tracked, road raced and road tested (dd) for several thousand miles at the current levels (23psi flat boost). Other than brakes and K04's the tunes have proven flawless in summer temps up to 100?. I've also included links to other threads I've posted that should help explain what I've done.

My tunes for different octanes are (should be lol) completely identical. The only thing that changes between them is the timing table. All other tables are the same. The key to power on a turbo engine isn't boost. It's timing. In general, the 91 octane tune made 315/345, 100 was 365/390, and the 110 was 395/4xx. The only difference between them is peak timing.

My tunes produce a completely linear throttle response. Yes, linear turbo throttle response. It is not difficult to do as long as you make all the tables work together to be linear. I shared these tunes with a few people but never posted because "pro" tuners have a tendency to copy/paste.

As a heads up, every turbo needs some tables (PID) to be recalibrated, even if it's a replacement K04 on an unchanged motor for an old K04. Every turbo spools differently. Every engine needs slightly different tuning to remove false KR. etc.

I will try to explain a little bit on some of the tables and why I do what I do. If you understand the Bosch ecu a little it will make sense taking into consideration how all the tables work together. First some links.

Some basic limits of the stock LNF engine

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...of-a-stock-LNF

How to dial out false KR (hint: ADD timing where you log timing dips for part or wot)

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...ow-to-tune-out

False KR on warmup

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...e-kr-on-warmup

This changes by year. The 2007 would hold a flat 3? until coolant temp reached 180 and then 3? dropping to 0 fast and finally instantly gone above 192? coolant temp. The 2009 is pretty comical as the KR mirrors gas pedal movement until the engine warms up.

Optimum Spark tables

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...-tables-how-to

This is one key to a linear throttle pedal. I hinted at it in the thread. I set my entire OS table to 25? differential. Why that value? I tested higher and the ecu gets pissed off and goes into limp mode because it can't respond quickly enough. You will see stock tunes run as high as 27? at peak load and redline rpm.

Why set it all to one value? This tells the ecu that regardless of pedal position I want the same torque request response.

Optimum Torque table

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...m-Torque-Table

Very simple. It's torque management. Set the whole table to 100%, reduce low load/high rpm range back to stock levels to control throttle lift boost spikes. Throttle lift boost spikes can be easily eliminated. Setting this table to 100% will require the rest of your tables to be readjusted as you are now removing a torque management system.

PID tables - USE THESE TO TUNE TURBO RESPONSE

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...LNF-PID-Tables

These tables will control you boost ramp (prop gain for how fast it ramps, derivative gain for target boost overshoot, integral for steady-state and throttle lift boost hang)

Cam tables and mid-range gains

https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...uot-cam-timing

Over 50 pulls on different octanes and engines have shown 0.3 sec gain from 60-80mph. Why? GM tuned the peak load and rpm range for the best power. They tuned mid-range (freeway cruise speeds) with a lot of overlap so the engine would spin more freely. You don't need power to maintain freeway speeds. Big loss in torque but great for gas mileage. Take away the overlap and gain free torque back.


Going to do a real brief explanation of some other tables I do differently.

If you make a table exceed 100% it becomes exponential in response. Generally, do not exceed 100% even if the table allows it. Your pedal response will be exponential and non-linear.

DAL table - note it is completely linear. This also contributes to the ecu responding to torque application in a linear fashion. For any rpm response is linear. Pedal output is linear.

Cam tables - note how they're almost all the same. Regardless of warm, cold, cat heating (even tho marked as disabled doesn't mean it's ignored) they're all the same and they're smooth)

PE table - again smooth. any table not smooth will create false kr.

Lambda efficiency table - don't touch. It affects the multipliers for too many tables we don't have access to in the Bosch ecu. Completely unnecessary to alter it and very dangerous. Can create start WOT pedal scenarios.

WGDC - again smooth to avoid false kr. I've found for the K04 that generally 78% range will get you to 23psi. It'll vary slightly from turbo to turbo because they all spool up differently from the factory. If you think you found a secret by setting it to 100% DC to nail 23.5psi on 2 bar map sensors I feel sorry for your motor.

One last weird thing. There is a transient response that occurs at 22-23% pedal position that is controlled by a table we don't have access to. It's a feel thing you will learn where it is. Just an FYI. My more aggressive OS tables make it more apparent.

I hope this info brings LNF people as much fun as it did for me. The Bosch ecu is a very difficult ecu to understand and control. As for info, there are some very intelligent tuners still on here who are still answering questions and always happy to help out.

Thanks for the informative summary

Any summary for fuel tuning?

PE? You'll see my feelings on PE AFR from my table vs stock. I am a proponent of being on the safe side with rpm and pedal position.

I haven't tuned larger turbos or needed 5th injectors as it was built for stock class and made more than enough power with stock injectors on e47. Others can chime in on bigger turbos, 5th injectors, bigger injectors, etc. That is not in my experience with this engine

are these auto x files...they look familiar. granted your are one of maybe 4 people i know who drastically changed everything

These were for my dd and for my road race GXP Solstice. I stopped racing it when I finished tuning the suspension and switched to endurance racing. Not sure how the tunes would do in autox. But, since I road raced and dd'd them I don't see a problem.

The tunes will recover a k04 from 0-20psi in between shifts in 0.7-0.8sec. Any faster and it was too much to control. Peak recovery on k04 is .458sec. I chose 20psi as a random value so I would have something to compare to.

Only difference between the road race and dd tunes was octane (peak timing).

i noticed the recovery portion of the file right away. i forgot you didnt do auto x, these are likely what i remember.

I use autox for initial shakedowns. With the autox courses and certain groups we have out here you can hit speeds high enough to accurately simulate the handling before ever tracking. Helps a lot with baseline setups.

Ask me how I know .458sec boost recovery time is not a good idea. Seems like small differences. But, those little time differences came through a lot of track testing/learning. It was great for drag racing, though! Guess how I did my baseline tune? :)

I like it. Interesting Techniques applied in here.

Bil Doe you have any suggestion in what order should we start tuning? For example should we start by tuning the MAF, timing, boost, torque management, etc.

Thank you!

We tried the 91 file on two Kappas and one of them refuses to run properly with the file while the other 09 kappa runs fine. The 07 will randomly go into reduced power mode and it runs 3 to 5 degrees below the timing table unless the AFR correction table is put back to the stock.

The other runs fine.

The 07 Kappa used to be trifecta tune and flashed back to stock using the Trifecta software. I wonder if there is an issue with that car ecu and it needs a tech2 flash.

I couldn't tell you because I have no experience with trifecta or what they have done to ecu's.

What I can tell you and everyone is that, having owned a 2007 gxp z0k and 2009 gxp coupe, the parameters are very different in some tables between the two ecu's. 2007 is a 1st year ecu which is different from the rest. It is similar to 2008 LS1 fbod being different ecu which cannot share flashes from other years. GM has a tendency of making 1st year ecu's unique.

DO NOT DIRECTLY FLASH THESE TUNES OVER. Start with the stock tune and modify each table with copy/paste.

The posted tunes are from my 2007 and are proven over 1.5yr of street driving and races. In order to tune my 2009 I copied fields over. Again, you have to be careful because the 2007 tune has some very different values for several tables.

I would suggest starting clean with a tech2 flash of a stock, non-GMPP tune. Both of my cars have had zero issues with these tunes.

Also be aware that I run a very high optimum spark table. It is safe but very responsive. Read up on the optimum spark table. You can NOT change timing without also changing the OS table. Doing so will make the car either very lethargic or surge and go into limp mode.

I got a code on your 91 file on regards to throttle position so I clean the TB and cleaned up some wires and its running now. I been messing around with it and this 07 ecu is doing stuff I have never seen before on these cars.

A odd one is that it pulls timing around 4400 rpm and knocks back timing to 6.5 degrees and shows knock retard, If I lower timing it still knocks and lowers timing even more, if I increase timing it will pull whatever timing it needs, to go back to 6.5 degrees. Now I disabled the knock sensors and set timing to 9 degrees at 4400 rpm on all the timing tables, and it STILL pulled timing down to 6.5 degrees. There was just no knock retard but timing was still at 6.5 degrees then it increased at 7.5 at 5500 and goes back to 6.5 at 6000 rpm. This all happens even though timing table is set at 9 degrees at 4400 rpms and 12 at 6000 rpms.

Its such a weird behavior. I called the dealer and they want 280 to reflash it.

This particular car has the maf relocated on a smaller pipe and the maf frequency table was tuned to adjust for the difference. The value are much lower than the stock curve, I wonder if that is causing some issues as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by codename Bil Doe

DO NOT DIRECTLY FLASH THESE TUNES OVER. Start with the stock tune and modify each table with copy/paste.

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Is that even possible? I thought if a different file is flashed over it will cause the ecu to be locked out due to vin/bcm issues?

thats why he mentioned to not do that

Another FYI, these tunes are not plug and play. You need to copy every single table and then retune for your engine - PID tables, timing tables, wgdc. Every single k04 spools differently and must be retuned even if you swap on your car. If you don't fully understand how to tune wgdc, OS tables in relation to spark, OT table, hold/cold/warmup spark, PID's, etc I highly suggest not touching these tunes.

There are explanations on how to tune everything in CSSOB's binle threads. He spent a lot of time organizing and is probably the most knowledgeable person on here. You should be able to recite those threads back to him ad teach him before using these tunes.