Please Review My Log

Hello,

I have another post going but for some reason I cannot reply to it so I'll start this one. If someone is able to move please feel free too.

I recently built a 5.4 3 valve motor for my brothers 2004 F150. His old motor locked up. I purchased a replacement motor from a gentleman who wrecked his 2004 F150. He purchased the motor two years ago from O'reilly Auto Parts. He provided the paperwork and everything checked out. I took apart the motor anyways to have it cleaned, new pistons, rings, bearings, timing components, valve train components, oil pump, cams, and head studs. I called the company who rebuilt them for the store, Powertorque and confirmed the cylinder head and block year to ensure I purchased the correct lash adjustors. I put a 340HV oil pump on, new timing chain/guides, metal tensioners, phaser lock outs, new lash adjustors, new roller followers, valve springs/seals, head gasket, head bolts, and Comp Cams 127010 Thumpr cams. While installing I also added a set of pacesetter long tube headers. After replacing the motor (pain in the A** in this truck) I disabled all rear 02 codes, COT protection, manifold protection, rear 02 sensors, and disabled VCT. Loaded it up and fired the truck up. It didn't run very good. It will start right up but doesn't have any power. It will run till about 150 degrees water temp and than shut off. It won't restart until the engine is cold again. I removed all of the coils and replaced. Same thing. All new coils and bad coils tested good too so I just wasted money :-(. I did put new motorcraft plugs in before the swap and 02 sensors.

My fuel trims are really high. In the 30 plus range. When I went to give it a little throttle is back fired a little from the exhaust :-(???.

Some other information:
I wasn't able to hook the Y-pipe up to the muffler due to the Y-pipe being too short.
Before swapping I did a cylinder leak down test and all holes are good.
I triple checked my timing before installing the valve covers and front cover. I even went as far as getting the part numbers off the cams and calling comp cams to make sure what side is which. (wanted to make sure comp marks left & right side the same way as Ford does.
All of my followers are on. (I installed cams and chain without the followers than put them in with a spring compressor (no keepers fell out)
When I timed it and put the followers in I verified number one valves were shut at TDC.
I hooked up my pressure oil primer and kept the motor lubed up while I rotated the crank 100 plus times until the colored links lined back up (made a mess and my arm is still swollen LOL)
I used the OTC tools to line the crank and hold the cams in place.
Fuel pressure is good
No leaks in exhaust to 02 sensors.
Oil pressure is good (used mechanical gauge)
Fuel trims are very high
Cam angle error shows 1.5 percent??
I have no clue of tuning Ford. I've done lots of GM and Daimler products.
I did not delete the IMRC - Reading online, lots of people say it's a good idea too for cams??

Before I tear apart the motor again to check timing :-(. Would someone mind reviewing my log. My question is does this sound like a timing issue, vacuum issue, or tune issue? I know every GM I've cammed will at least half as* run on the stock tune(not good but does). This truck wouldn't even make it to the muffler shop.

Also, does anyone know of any Ford tuners that use HP Tuners? I'm thinking I should just pay someone to tune it and will attempt to learn Ford at a later time. If anyone hear does, send me a PM and lets talk because I'm tired of looking at this truck LOL.

I'd like to get this done before my brother returns from his deployment.

I appreciate all of support and advice.

Thanks,

Well used scan tool and did a relative compression test just to see and scanner showed zero percent difference. Ran the power balance test and it was all over the place. Ramped engine speed to 2K and it smoothed out a lot. Pulled valve covers and timing cover off. Checked timing and and lobe positions all good. Counted thirty links on all sides. Rotated motor until marks lined back up. Checked good. Verified phasers tangs were straight and I locked them in the correct position. Checked good. I'll put another new set of spark plugs in and see.

What I don't get in your log is why MAF looks like it's pegged but SAE MAF looks right. In the past when I suspected a MAF issue I would unplug it, then start the engine so the car runs on SD instead to see if it improved. Obviously clear the code after plugging back in. Check for MAF issues or intake tubes unplugged.

What's the log look like when you rev it to 2k+ ? For your reference my Coyote idles at less than 1lb/min MAF

I looked at the log again to watch the MAF and noticed it's reading .03V and 1GPS with the engine off. An you're right it's air consumption is high.

Thank you for taking a look and responding. I'll let you know what I find out.

It looks like a leak or bad o2 sensors. Could also be a clogged injector.
Attachment 86470

You need to increase idle RPM to about 850 and set your max idle drive to it's max value of 2000 RPM. All of your dashpot settings need increased due to increased airflow. Dashpot decay is scaled to high. On decel, your airflow normally drops to < 3 lbs per min. The RPM in the other dashpot tables need to have appropriate RPM. You do not need to have 150, 300, 400 RPM in the axis. Those are useless RPM when they can benefit a better range.
Attachment 86472

Your MAF vs Voltage is still stock as well. You may need to increase by 35% or more since your seeing lean trims by that percent.
Lower your transport delay RPM min to 650. The transport delay table needs to be increased. You can try multiplying by 40% as a start. It needs to be increased by the distance change from the old o2 sensor location to the new o2 sensor location. The o2s are now further down the exhaust on long tubes.

Zero out the open loop delay table.
Change
OL Delay Ramp: 0
OL Delay Blend Ramp: .7
OL Delay Max: .05

Rescale the OL Fuel TPS Thresh 650 - 4500 RPM

Max out Tip-in Torque Rate Max and Torque Max VS RPM. Increase scheduled torque max by 20%

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thatwhite5.0

It looks like a leak or bad o2 sensors. Could also be a clogged injector.
Attachment 86470

You need to increase idle RPM to about 850 and set your max idle drive to it's max value of 2000 RPM. All of your dashpot settings need increased due to increased airflow. Dashpot decay is scaled to high. On decel, your airflow normally drops to < 3 lbs per min. The RPM in the other dashpot tables need to have appropriate RPM. You do not need to have 150, 300, 400 RPM in the axis. Those are useless RPM when they can benefit a better range.
Attachment 86472

Your MAF vs Voltage is still stock as well. You may need to increase by 35% or more since your seeing lean trims by that percent.
Lower your transport delay RPM min to 650. The transport delay table needs to be increased. You can try multiplying by 40% as a start. It needs to be increased by the distance change from the old o2 sensor location to the new o2 sensor location. The o2s are now further down the exhaust on long tubes.

Zero out the open loop delay table.
Change
OL Delay Ramp: 0
OL Delay Blend Ramp: .7
OL Delay Max: .05

Rescale the OL Fuel TPS Thresh 650 - 4500 RPM

Max out Tip-in Torque Rate Max and Torque Max VS RPM. Increase scheduled torque max by 20%

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Okay I'll give that a go. I really appreciate the advice and time you spent looking into everything. The O2's are new which I know doesn't mean anything so I'll verify those as well. I'll keep you updated.

Thank you again!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thatwhite5.0

It looks like a leak or bad o2 sensors. Could also be a clogged injector.
Attachment 86470

You need to increase idle RPM to about 850 and set your max idle drive to it's max value of 2000 RPM. All of your dashpot settings need increased due to increased airflow. Dashpot decay is scaled to high. On decel, your airflow normally drops to < 3 lbs per min. The RPM in the other dashpot tables need to have appropriate RPM. You do not need to have 150, 300, 400 RPM in the axis. Those are useless RPM when they can benefit a better range.
Attachment 86472

Your MAF vs Voltage is still stock as well. You may need to increase by 35% or more since your seeing lean trims by that percent.
Lower your transport delay RPM min to 650. The transport delay table needs to be increased. You can try multiplying by 40% as a start. It needs to be increased by the distance change from the old o2 sensor location to the new o2 sensor location. The o2s are now further down the exhaust on long tubes.

Zero out the open loop delay table.
Change
OL Delay Ramp: 0
OL Delay Blend Ramp: .7
OL Delay Max: .05

Rescale the OL Fuel TPS Thresh 650 - 4500 RPM

Max out Tip-in Torque Rate Max and Torque Max VS RPM. Increase scheduled torque max by 20%

---

Finally had the time to get everything back together. I installed new plugs, new MAF, vacuum lines, and deleted the IMRC. I leak tested the exhaust and didn't find anything before the 02 sensor. I adjusted the parameters since the IMRC is deleted and I followed your recommendations. I'll say I'm impressed. For just giving me parameters to change it actually drove and idled very well. I took it on a short drive to get her warm and move it back to my house. It actually didn't even stall. I truly do appreciate the help.

I do have a few more questions if you don't mind...?

I keep reading from post to post that adjusting the MAF voltage table is bad.... Some say to do it and some say don't touch it. Why is that and when should/shouldn't it be adjusted? If it should be adjusted, do you just use AFRerror maf to MAF voltage, log, and paste special to the table similar like you do with GM?

I think I'm understanding a little more now with how Ford runs SD.

1. Since there is no MAP sensor in this truck the ECM file has a theoretical MAP value as in if it needs to reference MAP, instead of tracking it via a sensor it just looks at it's throttle angle to RPM to determine MAP? Is this correct?
2. For the above questions (if correct and I understand it) than these values are the "MAP at Zero Airmass (Closed)" and "MAP at Zero Airmass (Open)"?
3. The tables "MAP per Airmass (Closed)" and "MAP per Airmass (Open)" is similar to a VE table found on GM/Daimler files?
4. If I wanted to tune this would I fail the MAF, set up a histogram to log RPM, throttle angle, and MAP reading (using a external MAP sensor) log the data and input in the MAP at Zero Airmass tables?
5. After I do the above I could log using another table similar to the above but instead of logging MAP I would log AFR error and adjust the percentages in the MAP per Airmass tables?

Attachment 86685Attachment 86686Attachment 86685Attachment 86686

Hello fellas. I've been reading along trying to learn a little. I'm 50 years old, old school mechanic my whole life. I own a 1 man auto repair shop, and I'm my only employee. I like to think I'm capable of learning. Did the truck in this thread get straightened out to satisfaction? I have a question that hopefully has a simple solution. I've installed the Livernois Cam phaser delete kits in the 3 valve 5.4L Tritons. While they work fine, I'm looking for a more cost effective way to delete the cam phasers on the 3 valve 5.4L Triton. After installing the phaser lock outs, what perimeters need changed, adjusted or turned off in the ecu/pcm ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks